Can't decide on tile for bath remodel. will wood look tile conflict with real wood floors?
Full hall bath. Elements I have decided on are, white vanity (double sinks), white tub with white subway tile on walls surrounding tub and half way up on remaining walls. recessed medicine cabinets , you guessed it, are white.
So wall color is only color in the room.
Here's the question: I am considering using porcelain tile (in a darker shade) that looks like wood, but I have traditional oak floors on the rest of the second story. will this look odd?
Opinions on what will look like 2 different wood colors on same floor.
So wall color is only color in the room.
Here's the question: I am considering using porcelain tile (in a darker shade) that looks like wood, but I have traditional oak floors on the rest of the second story. will this look odd?
Opinions on what will look like 2 different wood colors on same floor.
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Both 1st and 2nd floor have the lighter oak color floors, literally every room on both floors have the oak except for the powder room.
Here's an example of how my floor would look., notice the real wood in hall outside bathroom door.
I have seen a few gray porcelain tiles I like, but they seem a bit more modern looking than the rest of the classic elements I have chosen.
First two photos show the subway with gray grout.
The third has gray wall tiles that could be pretty on the floor. Nice pattern and soft gray color that's not too dark
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[houzz=West Isles Kid's Bath][houzz=Hale Aina By The Sea]
I might take a second longer look at porcelain tile in various shades of gray.
I cannot choose counter top for vanity until I can decide on the floor. vanity needs to be ordered, very soon.
I would also like accent tile in the shower area, a long rectangle along the valve area. again, I am stumped on choice.
As far as the accent tile, I'm not sure what style you are going for. The photo below is a pretty idea that is "style" neutral and would look nice with the white subway, light gray grout on walls and soft gray tile floor. This would leave you with the option of accenting with color on the wall paint and bath towels....and be able to change your mind on those colors in years to come without having to redo the whole room.
Have to say though, I have beautiful accent tile in my master shower and am not such a fan anymore because of all the grout that is so susceptible to mildew. Just something to think about (though I am path-of-least-resistence when it comes to cleaning ;)
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I think the photo you've shown (by Shannon Ggem) is a good example of how the wood-look tile and the real wood can work together. Much of what makes this work imo is that the tile and wood are perpendicular to each other, and that their color is also clearly defines that they were never meant to look the the same, but instead to complement each other.
As for the transition in height between the two materials, what thickness wood do you have? It could be 5/16" top nail through 3/4" T&G. Whichever option you have, your tile setter can use the doorway transition tile to create a subtle slope between the two (some minor back-grinding may be required if its transitioning to 5/16")
Steve
The information about the transition piece allows me to have an informed conversation with the tiler.
@ Merry, I love the basket weave but have used it recently in another project and really want this bathroom to look different from that other project.
You can checkout our progress along the way! --> http://fabulouslyvintage.blogspot.com/search/label/DIY
Hope this helps some! :)
I am not sure what your setter is going to use for the substrate. Float construction or a Hardi Backer. there are uncoupling mats that are good to keep elevations to a minimum.
Are you on a raised foundation or slab?
Mapei M20 is usually used for resurfacing existing concrete and can be polished or stained. It can be used on an engineered plywood sub-floor but a min of 1-1/4" thick. If you are on a sub floor the best way to keep the elevation down as low as possible is to use an uncoupling mat there are several companies that make this product. The heating system will play nicely with the mats.I have seen the Wedi board system and should be fine for tub surround.. A nice way to keep costs down compared to a float construction. Just a note you can watch a video on You tube on how the wedi board works. If installed corectley it will provide a good waterproof. surround.
would the mat be needed if I am using the wood look porcelain?
Thanks so much for the info. A bathroom is so costly and each contractor seems to have a different way of installing. The other two we contacted do not use the wedi system. each one wanted to put the ventailation fan in a different spot etc.
The guy we'd like to use has used it often and he says he's never had a leak.
It's like every cook has a different recipe for pasta sauce! How do you know which one you'll like?
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[houzz=Classic Contemporary Washroom]
I think the contrast would be lovely and timeless as well.
The fact that your tile installer has even heard of Wedi products, let alone uses them is a good sign, so you're probably in good hands :) With regard to the "mat" being needed (eg Ditra and Wedi): while its not critical, it will help to minimize the possibility of cracking from movement in the floor framing. (It also completely waterproofs whatever its placed over) I personally prefer Schluter's Ditra mats for floors but I believe Wedi has similar products.
Steve