Exterior 1910 House
I posted this house a couple of months ago and thought I would ask for your assistance once again. All of the brown trim (and the for sale sign) was the house at time of purchase. The slate roof is complicating matters as far as a cohesive color scheme, to me anyway. The roof from the 2nd floor up is nice, mostly grays with some red similar to the brick on foundation and chimney. However, the roof from the 2nd floor down has green in the slate along with grays and reds. The siding is a soft banana cream color and, considering the age of it looks remarkable so of course we do not wish to replace it. Along with the new white cornice wrap we've installed, we painted the shingles up toward the eaves, on each side of the property, BM Dolphin which goes darker on the cloudy days and much lighter on sunnier days. To my eye, the house isn't flowing and would love some input. There remains some brown on the porch railing which will be painted this week along with some foundation plantings that help to detract from the red foundation.
| Share: |
|
More Discussions


Thank you all..........
We may have a buyer but the wife has no visualization ability so they're waiting for us to get our finishes in place.
Thank you!
The screen door is already gone, one of the first things to get taken
off. We could use landscaping suggestions too....
It's not a big area but, needs to have big impact. We are trying to get put in next week as the weather is going to be warmer. Have had a couple of recent freezes so we are trying to beat the start of winter and we are pushing it...thanks again.
If it is going to freeze soon, you may not be able to plant with any expectation that expensive large landscape plants will survive. Mow, trim and edge in the meantime. The grass will probably go dormant soon.
To the left if the porch is driveway.
I like the white front door, too, as has been said. I wonder if the green in the slate roof is telling us to repeat the green somewhere on the house, to tie it all in? I wouldn't try to match the red brick at the door, using the complement of red (green) might work. Here's a pretty green door, for instance (photo) Front Elevation Surfers End
Cyn222's landscape plan I think, would look good with shrubs that grow in your area. Here, they are using India Hawthorne and clumps of 3-5 Society Garlic. Maybe the center shrub can be saved? Down the side choose all the same shrubs - Pittosporum, they'd use here.
I will attach a photo later of the porch lights my husband picked out. Our selection's back plate measurements must be such that the fixture will lie flat upon the existing siding and, we found that this caused us to have to eliminate many terrific choices.
I just saw the plan you posted, it's terrific........ I was away for Thanksgiving so I haven't checked in until today, wow. Thank you!
Are the Indian Hawthorne's the plants along the walkway in front of the pittosporum in the corner? Are the red flowering plants the garlic and, what is the conical evergreen?
Is there a way to "forward" the photo you posted above?
Thank you so much!
The brick foundation & stairs is one of the best features of your house, I would not hide brick with tall shrubs.
Along the narrow driveway, left side facing, I'd put down weed cloth (Home Depot) and Large Mexican River Smooth Stones (photo)
In small foundation +stair area on left facing side of house 3 white flowering azalea in wood chips (in a triangle pattern. One against foundation and others in front on each side). Do the same with 3 azaleas on the other side of steps.
All across the right of house as foundation plantings: the same white azalea (probably 5-7 or 7-9), in wood chips. On right facing lawn, in center, I'd plant a red Japanese maple or smallish flowering tree.
I don't think I'd plant anything on facing right side. You have drainage stones on that side. If you were going to stay I might have a few suggestions, but I'm sure you do not want to go to a lot of work at this point. But you could plant India Hawthorne all along or something similar for your area.
Vinyl siding can be painted. I think painting the dormer might help. If you put green on the door, then maybe a rusty red brown/tile red on the dormer would help tie the parts together. A greenish grey (if that is what is on the side) might work too. Painting the angle brackets the red color would help too, and a darker gray like what is on the side, could work on the porch floor.
Beside the siding width, the window casings are too narrow. Shingles on top and narrow lap siding on bottom were common for this sort of house, with a beltline between floors. Perhaps finding pictures of what it could look like someday with new siding would help.
Dark trim was typical and ranged in tones, but a warm rusty red brown was typical--bit warmer than walnut, more like mahogony. Or more like pecan, with yellowish or greenish undertones, sometimes ashy or smoky if you have quartersawn oak. What is it now and what do the possible new owners think about it? Mid-range amber shellac floors were common.
We are going to attempt to refinish the existing hardwood floors with the exception of the 3rd floor as it's in bad shape so carpet it is for that space. The inside in painted Anew Gray by BM or SW (can never remember). I like the Dolphin color idea for the wood front porch, I think that would be good. We aren't going to paint the siding or reside it unless we can't sell it due to this which I do not think will happen. Where do you see angle brackets that need painting?
Thank you for your suggestions, I appreciate them.
I was suggesting painting the front and sides of the dormer only--I experimented in Photoshop and I think a medium olive type green would be best. The same (or a slightly lighter version since it is in shadow) color on the door, plus darker trim on the baseboard of the porch, is enough to unify the facade I think. Maybe leave the porch paint as it is and put the gray on the baseboard and maybe by the sidelights or top of the rail, or use the olive. I posted a few variations--you will have to blow them up to see the difference probably.
The actual effect will be a little different,(and the Olive in Photoshop looks much brighter and lighter on my screen than here) and you have to post pics of the door to try paint combinations for that.
I tried sage green, but the olive helps bring the red brick, yellow siding, slate roof and such together better because it has more yellow in it. I would try a few samples on posterboard to find the right color, and compare door color under the porch with the color in the light under the porch deck. The difference might be nice or you might want to go slightly lighter on the door.
This is rather long, but explains some of the finer points and my thinking process:
I couldn't see the picture very well, but I looked again and the sides of the dorm and the side gables have gray vinyl shingles on them, but the front is kind of yellow--is that the same color as the body of the house? The color of the dormer looks a little off to me anyway, like it is a little rusty or something--could have been from the brown facia trim.
The brackets are under the gables on the sides of the building, and you have small stub brackets in the porch area. They were often painted a contrasting color. My neighbor has the same brackets on a house wiith a similar color scheme and the brackets, the storm door and some of the sills and trim are painted rusty red brown type color and it looks great. Are you replacing the storm door? If so, that may be an option for you as well. Or paint just some of the narrow trim on the sidelights and front door.
But when I worked with it in Photoshop, I think it could look nice, but isn't required to unify the building.
The grey or the existing porch color (rather like it actually) could be extended all the way down over the base trim, or mask the top inch off to mask any waviness in the porch floor and to make it look more substantial.
A subtle red accent could go on the inside trim of the porch ceiling. Craftsman strapping painted onto the pillars in the red could look pretty sharp too. Could be nice, but again, maybe not required.
When I worked with it in Photoshop, I did like the dark brown color of the porch extended down to the base molding much better. It really helps to ground the building to the brick and make it look more unified and makes the collumns pop more. I also liked the darker handrail, but it looks good light too. I know you just painted that! Another option is the olive color from the dormer.
Is the siding on the upstairs porch the same as the dormer and body of the house. It looks slightly different to me. I wish you could have restored the spindles up there as well, that would have really help make the colors and awkwardness receed. I also see a bit of discolored siding in the back.
Any siding that doesn't match the main siding could be cleaned, primed and painted to blend in. You can color-match the old siding if you can remove a small piece of it--perhaps in the back . Any stored siding won't match because it hasn't faded. It might take some trial and error to get the color right though.
Other fixes:
You might try power washing the slate on the first floor roof. It looks discolored. Staining the brick mortar where it was repointed is a fussy job, but it would look dramatically better, esp. on the main house.
http://www.ehow.com/how_6364482_stain-masonry-brick-joints.html
If you have the budget, a porch swing would be a nice thng for the front porch, and they don't cost that much--might even be able to get one on clearance now. Instant nostalgia for the good ole days and leisurely evenings. Even if it isn't used much, it makes the house feel welcoming. Or some nice chairs set there with some color pillows could look nice.
I think it is too late to plant, but some urns with evergreens and tree branches could look nice by the steps, and could last all winter. .
Rather unusual to have so many on one house--is too much sun an issue there?
First, the shingles on the side are Dolphin by Benjamin Moore. Are you suggesting using this on the porch and bring it down enough for the eye to be able to incorporate it into the overall color scheme?
Paint the brackets this color or, a red tile/brick..... color like the one we've removed. Are you suggesting we stain "all" of the brick mortar or, just that of the steps? The house must flow from exterior to interior and the inside is now painted Anew Gray by Sherwin Williams. I know the house could use more than we want to get into but that's how budgets work. The enclosed porch would be a pandora's box so we just have to stay away from it. Maybe doing something on the lower porch would be more feasible without closing it in. The siding that the prior owners put on is not right for the period but it is in good condition so we decided not to paint it. I think the landscaping will help with curb appeal however, I do also feel that a third color will help bring it together.
The 1908 is very nice!
Thanks again.........
Is the railing cap green or another color?
The grout stain would just be to tone down the patchy spots where it was repointed on the main house. I think it would be better for the steps too, but that is quite a lot of work and at least those are uniform.
Then I put a mid-tone olive green on the door and the dormer to try to balance the various tones.
I can't tell from the photos what color the porch floor is in comparison to the side shingles, but that color or the green from the doors could be used on the railing and the baseboard trim under the porch. The colors are not exact, so you will have to use your imagination to pick the right shade, but a range of greens tending toward the olive (with some yellow) that is dark enough to contrast with the yellow siding, but distincltly different from the Dolphin, would work.
Other points:
Dormer:
I agree with Micheal Dale that the dormer windows are all wrong, and am unsure if a darker color would just highlight that. And the difference with the side siding bothers me too. Maybe painting all white or light yellow to exactly match the old siding would help--it just looks off. You might look into pop-in window grills. Not as nice as the real thing, but they would be better than nothing.
Curtains:
Dressing up the dormer windows with a nicely scalloped bottom shade pulled part of the way down would help too. Nice white drapes/sheers in the front windows firtst floor windows could help too. and maybe some cafe curtains on the side can really make the house look more inviting and less blank.
Color placement:
It is extremely common for this era house to have a dark top and a light bottom. Very,very seldom was it done the other way around. I admit it looks a bit top heavy on the side, and that is because the house has lost its thick window casings, beltline, and drip boards. The bump out and the little gable on the side of the porch roof could be painted the Dolphin to balance it out a bit better. A nice trellis on the side could help too. And I would paint out the utility meters to blend in better with the brick
I dislike fake shutters on a historic house, and installing them could damage the siding. But I have to admit that they do help balance things out better and may be a good compromise. if they are sized properly as shown by barbellis. .
I did suggest painting the brackets, but without repeating that color, it might look even more top heavy. Might be nice someday, not neccessary now.
I know I posted a lot on this, but it gets complicated to explain in words and I get the feeling you want to just have someone lead you by the hand and get it over with.
It is not too bad now actually, just a little tweaking. Perhaps just painting the front door will do it good enough.
FRONT
I think the porch floor is dark brown--is that correct? Leave as is--nice to have the dark color to ground it and contrast with trim. Sorry, but I really do think a darker color is much better on the baseboard than the white--paint just it (not the porch floor) Dolphin or back to the original color
The top rail was brown but now white? OK as is, or could paint Dolphin or paint green to match door. Do baseboard and door first.
Door--a green, perhaps one of these: (Benjamine Moore $60-70 a gallon)
Herb Garden 434
Forest Hills Green 433
Alligator Alley 441
Great Barrington Green HC-122
The dormer is giving me fits, so maybe leave it as is (or paint green like the door) and add the window shades (white thermal fringed) $27-40 each, depending on width, cut to size:
JCP http://www.jcpenney.com/dotcom/for-the-home/departments/window-treatments/in-home-services/custom-decorating-/resource-center/savannah-cut-to-width-fringed-thermal-roller-shade/
Mortar Stain: BEHR 1-Gal. Acrylic Deep Base Concrete Stain $26
Urns: $15 at Home Depot or similar. Fill with gravel and pine boughs, twigs.
Inexpensive throw rugs ($10-$20 each) and a decent entrance mat ($20-35) $50-100
Curtains--Goodwill $2-3 each or borrow some of your own
Porch Chairs--free if you have some to loan. Maybe some cushions on clearance $10 or so each.
TOTAL COST: about $250-$300
SIDE:
Composite Trellis: $15-$20 Home Depot or similar
Dolphin Gray (still have paint? bottom four rows all around the house ($60-70 gallon plus primer--maybe more depending on coverage)
OR, just paint bump out and porch roof area. or do the bump out alone in green to match door, or with bottom band for rest of house.
AND/OR 1-3 sets of proper sized shutters,
Painted green or Dolphin, plus some for the other side, maybe the back--perhaps just for the ground floor windows (shutters were used as an accent, doesn't have to go on every window). About $30-60 each at Home Depot or similar--prefer the raised panel versus the louvers. Only comes in 15" widths, so may not look right. Fake shutter dogs (holdbacks) are $28 each--looks much better with them..
Cost--about $100-$250 or so, depending on how many you get. Get just a two sets (one for each side or side and back ) with the shutter dogs, about $150,
JUST PAINT and trellis: $50-150, depending on how much paint and primer you have to buy, and how much painting you do.
SHUTTERS $100-250, depending on how many and options picked
GRAND TOTAL--Whole house: $350-$500+ depending on options picked
Thanks to all who have offered their suggestions
victorianbugalow, I will disect your opinions, I think there are some great, inexpensive suggestions that will impact the curb appeal greatly (this must have taken you awhile, thank you!) btw, the porch is a light gray. The shutters as well as the trellis on the side absolutely add appeal to the house however, shutters on each side of the home wouldn't be considered odd?
michael, I do not have access to original photos of the top floor windows. We are not restoring the house to its original state merely updating it and attempting to do it with some interest in keeping with the neighborhood, which by the way, is vastly comprised of home owners do the same.
I'm working on a rendering what just additng some paint as suggested above can do--I know you don't want to paint the siding, but it will just be in strategic spots to gild the lilly as it were, mostly confined to the ground floor.
Having a nice sunny day sure helps! It is looking pretty good already! I like the French door in front too.
Drat, I have to use the old file. You have to repost the question for anyone to work with full-sized photos because the resolution is so low. I'm checking your project books too. If you post the photos there, then I can save them at full resolution, and it would be better for you too to see the details.
Take heart, I think you are almost there!
I don't like high gloss finishes. Every little imperfection shows. They are more durable, so the first coats can be high gloss and the top a matte or semi. Poly scratches though. Some swear by Marine Varnish (really a poly) but some say that is only for areas with high humidity and water issues. There are some new European type finishes out there that have characteristics of both--high wear and more natural looking. And there is a return to Amber Shellac, which is green and easily touched up, but not terribly water resistant.
It is worth checking various options with a professional, not just the guy at the home improvement store. You can ask for quotes and the products they would use.
[houzz=exterior]
[houzz=Bella Homes]
[houzz=Craftsman Home]
[houzz=Sears Craftsman in Del Ray]
[houzz=AA Trueline Construction Services Inc.]
[houzz=exterior]
[houzz=Bella Homes]
[houzz=Craftsman Home]
[houzz=Sears Craftsman in Del Ray]
[houzz=AA Trueline Construction Services Inc.]
[houzz=exterior]
[houzz=Bella Homes]
[houzz=Craftsman Home]
[houzz=Sears Craftsman in Del Ray]
[houzz=AA Trueline Construction Services Inc.]
I would do the first floor railing the same as the second floor & put in planter boxes across the railing of both. That way you could add season colors & plants to add more interest.
If you would rather go a less expensive route add horizontal pieces of would between the vertical railing in a pattern to add interest to the bottom railing & add a wider ledge to the top edge.
I like awning idea over pedestrian door, black rounded with scalloped edges maybe to coordinate with the upstairs blinds? Yes, the spindles are white but they're talking about paining "all" of it white including balusters. We "never" put high gloss anything in our houses, ewww.
Robyn, I love window boxes but, being winter it's and not living there it's hard to keep them up. Of course now for Christmas they could be made spectacular.
Sandrapratt, I also like the vertical siding idea, I've seen that before and haven't given it a thought since we didn't side the house ourselves.
Great ideas, love the interaction here!
Regina, what's wrong with a bar in the foyer, less steps to take at 5:00 after "one of those days".....lol?
So if you are doing a green door, then green with a yellow stripe with a bit of Dolphin type grey and a bit of dark brown, or a similar combination could be nice. Porch valances are another way to add a bit of color to a house and could match the side valance and pull it all together. I'm not sure how much that would cost, but it could look fantastic.That might help with the balance and increase the visual weight of the porch of the house, especially with a dark base, not the white one..
Create a new project book and post your various house photos. Then I can use an updated photo for any rendering rather than an old one.
windows which are getting grids today.
What do you need help with?
1) A painted white beltline (originally a trim board, but faked by painting two rows of siding, lined up to match the molding on the top of the bump out) should go all around the house. Don't have to mask--just keep a bucket of water and some rags or a sponge to quickly wipe any goofs.
2) A painted drip board--two bottom rows of siding, in Dolphin, painted all around the house, perhaps continuing as sort of a baseboard for the porch area.
3) Dolphin painted bump out (Optional, but I think it would look great.
3) Options with the white trim board under the porch (current) with the brown to match porch floor (past) and with Dolphin. I prefer the darker options. May have to copy onto computer and blow up to see difference. (Not sure of exact tonalities in the sun for the Dolphin on the dormer and porch--can look quite a bit lighter than on side I think. I wonder if it is too heavy for the dormer and too light for under the porch. A related but darker version might be a possibility)
4) Dolphin top rails on porch
5) Bright brick red front door. I like the green too, but this will have more of a punch and brings the red color up. I would paint all doors this color, maybe even the storms. Or the storms could be Dolphin.
6) Doesn't show on this, but I would paint the thin front entry trim outlining the door and sidelights Dolphin too. Keep the white for the sidelights and the panels below the sidelights.
7) Awning: Crestview makes wood awnings (I have very old wood awnings on my house actually--probably date to the 40s or so) and that could be a good option for the side in Dolphin, possibly with a bit of red or whit highlight (just two wood strips painted perhaps--paint red, run a line of painters tape over down the center, and then paint white) Or go with a canvas one. You will have to call to get prices or find a local dealer. http://www.crestviewdoors.com/browse/products/easy-up-awnings.html
Anyway, I think the paint like this will be enough to help balance it out. It restores some of the detailling it probably had originally and keeps the sides from looking so flat. Even just doing the detail painting on the front porch will help.
I also found a millwork catalogue with your front door in it. I really like the style.
You might try using DISCUSSIONS at the top of the page and start your own thread with photos of the space you are decorating and a clear question of what you need. You will find many people willing to help. If you are studying architechture and just want interesting ideas, you might peruse the PHOTOS section of houzz.com instead to get ideas.
The bump-out is optional too, or could be white--and I think the apparent difference in planes would be greater in real life. I do think the bottom trim helps with the transition from the brick and helps ground the building, and the front should be dark rather than white under the porch..
I used Photoshop for my first posting and Microsoft Picture-It for the second. I find Picture-it easier for adding and changing structures and moving and resizing stuff to paste in or copy, but Photoshop is better for color matching and texture, and experimenting with different color combinations. I have an old version of Picture-it so I am thinking about updating to see if they have expanded the masking and color controls. It is great for a quick collage of photos too, and much cheaper than Photoshop, and doesn't seize up my computer like Photoshop can..
I discovered that it is best to insert or draw shapes with the bounding box and fill in with the approx color, magic wand select it, and then brush over it in transparent layers on top. I do that in Photoshop too, and compensate for perspective, so it takes a bit of fiddling around to make it look somewhat right, esp. in shadow areas.
Actually craftsman style houses did have enclosed railings, usually combined with masonry piers. Was it originally like this? Probably not.
Lindamarie, I see you painted the trim under the porch gray, so that looks much better, and makes the address and columns stand out more. The green door looks good with the new light fixtures. . Nice to see it clearly now. Did you paint the porch floor too? Looks like you changed your mind on the dormer, which is probably good.
I think I would like the green of the door on the top railing. The grey just isn't quite warm and heavy enough of a color. Not terrble or anything, just needs a bit of something. Try those inexpensive urns with the greenery--will dress it up all winter and make it look less bare. Another chair and a little table on the porch will cozy it up a bit.
If the temps are dipping below 50, I would call off painting for awhile. The paint can fail, wihich is a huge mess. Make sure the temp is OK early in the day so it has time to dry and finish what you started.
It looks like some trim is sagging on the top porch on the far right. Little stuff like that drags a house down.
Yes, I see the trim and I'll check that out.
Definately better to have the numbers higher up on the house, perhaps left of the door. I got some nice old-fashioned but classic house numbers from Home Depot and it made a huge difference. They were basic Roman style font, but with a bit of flair to them. With the siding, it might be easier to put them on a board first.
We tried brass with a black plaque on our current house, but it looked terrible and was hard to read. My husband thought it would be brighter and easier to read, but it wasn't. We now have a solar lighted numbers--a compromis because so many people have trouble finding us.
I will check them out next time in HD, which lately is daily. Thank you for all your help, I cannot wait to get it done.
Not an expert on wood finishes. Poly looks plasticy and scratches. Have a friend who swears by their Marine Varnish, but that is normally not recommended for indoors. There are some European type finishes that are supposed to be inbetween a wax and a varnish (not Danish Oil). Maybe you can get some flooring guys in for a quote and ask what they use.