Need help with kitchen remodel
We recently bought this house and want to change out the mint green kitchen counters and flooring. I am currently loving soapstone for countertop. Can I mix stones to use soapstone on the perimeter and something else on the island? Maybe white granite? And what color floor tile would coordinate with soapstone counter and white cabinets?
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I'm sure some of the designers will chime in with lots of ideas. Have fun!
[houzz=][houzz=Princeton Restoration][houzz=Joanne's Kitchen][houzz=Window View]
You could do wood on the island top, or co-ordinate with a quartz or granite that compliments the other colours in the room. For your floor, vinyl or tile - try to go for a full bodied porcelain so if you drop anything it doesn't chip and show the back colour. Stay in the same tones as the wood floor to keep the space looking larger. The island can stay white with the wood top, or you could chang up the colour, as shown in the two images attached. For the new island top, if you have the room, have the overhang minium 10" so it's comfortable to sit at it. The colours aren't perfect in the renderings but this can help you visualize what the possibilities are. You may even want to put in one or two pendants over the island. I agree witht he comment above to keep your colours similar to existing for a great flow.
Goog Luck
Soapstone is always grey/black and would look nice.
I wouldn't put white granite on white cabinets though. But that's just me - I like some contrast.
I'd look into wood on the island and the soapstone everywhere else.
Kitchen renos are MUCH easier before you move in than after - and if they don't like those countertops now, they never will (and I don't blame them!)
Now if you are talking about paint - cabinets or otherwise - lighting, backsplash, etc then waiting is not a bad idea. But replacing floors and counters that you know you don't like before you move in seems like a good plan.
That sample is lovely! And on a barn-red island? WOW!
Also, while a contrasting or different color island is trendy right now, the kitchen looks small and the darker island looks and "feels" cumbersome (imho) from sample pics provided. I'd stick with white island. I disagree that it will come across as sterile. Check out beautiful kitchen photos on HOUZZ for all white in smaller spaces. Love the sample island counter top you posted.
Would not recommend taking backsplash up to ceiling in this space.
I agree with adding pendant lights (3) over the island.
Finally, I agree, get rid of the window treatment / valance over the window and let the light shine in!
Also, while a contrasting or different color island is trendy right now, the kitchen looks small and the darker island looks and "feels" cumbersome (imho) from sample pics provided. I'd stick with white island. I disagree that it will come across as sterile. Check out beautiful kitchen photos on HOUZZ for all white in smaller spaces. Love the sample island counter top you posted.
Would not recommend taking backsplash up to ceiling in this space.
I agree with adding pendant lights (3) over the island.
Finally, I agree, get rid of the window treatment / valance over the window and let the light shine in!
I don't think different materials are trendy at all. Varying things give you that collected look that is what makes most rooms interesting and inviting. We rarely do all one color in any other room - contrast adds interest unless you go over the top with it. Rooms - even kitchens - should look like they evolved, even if you did it all in one day. I do agree that taking the backsplash to the ceiling is a tad too contemporary for this space.
Anyone have personal experience with white quartzite? My unsealed sample etched from my test of lemon juice and a glass of water left a ring. I'm disappointed but I just LOVE the stone. Would sealing it make a difference with the etching?
Yes, you can mix which stones you're using for your counters. Contrast between the island and wall cabinets is something that's becoming much more common. My suggestion would be a light colored granite. We can actually install your counters without demolition and we have a great selection which you can see here- http://www.granitetransformations.com/southjersey/products/granite-countertops/colors/.
Good luck with your remodel!
I love the idea of the island being either red or black. I almost always specify a different finish on the island - it breaks up the monotony of cabinetry often found in kitchens, it creates a focal point and it makes it look more like a piece of furniture than cabinets. When I do this, I also always change the counter material. From your photo, it looks like you just have the basic "skin" on the end of the island, too. If you are going to paint, wrap any of these "skins" with a beadboard or similarly finished panel. Also, although I can't see the base, I am betting you have a recessed base all the way around. While you may want to keep this on the sink/working side of the island, I would add a furniture base (i.e. overlay a trim piece) on the 3 other sides. You could add feet on the sink side, too. If you have room on the stool side, add an overhang of about 14"-15" . You could add brackets/corbels on the corners.
As for a wood floor, I like wood floors in a kitchen. They are warm and soft on the feet. They are not difficult to patch in to look seamless, but it depends somewhat upon what the existing floors are (real plank, veneered, how old, etc.) Check with a good installer. If you opt to go with another ceramic tile,
I like the black and white checkerboard which Carol Bratton suggested. You could take this a little further and add random deco tiles close to the color of your wood floors - this would visually pull it together a little better. There are also some very cool linoleums out there http://www.forboflooringna.com/Residential-Flooring/Products/Marmoleum-sheet-tile/
Just one more thought: try to sell your Corian counters or donate them to a Habitat store. I'm sure there is someone out there who is looking for light green Corian counters!
With regards to your question about the etching, it's a problem with natural stone. Sealing it does help, but not eliminate the problem. You may be better off with the newer fabricated quartz. Cambrian, Silestone and Caesarstone all have come a long way in the quest to make their products look more natural. Europeans and Asians all use marble and accept that the wear is part of their beauty. Here in North American we want things to look brand new all the time (for the most part) so the man made products seem to work well here. It's like old pine floors, years of wear and use is what gives them so much appeal, but some people just can't live with that look. It's best to figure out what your tolerance is and choose a product that suits your needs. Same with hardwood in kitchens, it's a personal choice. Given the choice I would choose hardwood but that's me and what suits my needs for you it may be totally different. The key is choose products that suit your needs and taste but use tones that integrate well with the existing surroundings. Use texture as a means to bring in some warmth if you don't want it to sterile.
If you just can't make the final decisions narrow down your choices and have a professional come in and help you with the final selection. You will save money by doing the running around yourself but have some guidance before you purchase so you don't make any big mistakes.
Good luck and have fun.
That being said, it should not etch. At least we have never experienced any problems with it etching. Sealing may make a slight difference, but not much of one. Sealing has to do more with stains than etching.
I noticed on another post that you called this stone "Namibian Fantasy". We carry Namibian White here (also known as Misty White), and it looks very much like your sample as seen in the photo. Does it have little sparkles in it--almost making it look snow-like? If so, we have been told by our suppliers that this stone is a marble. I can't be certain that this Namibian Fantasy sample is the same as our Namibian White, but it would explain the etching. Marble etches rather easily.
"The hardness of rocks, as measured by their resistance to abrasion, can be assessed on the Mohs scale. By this grade, which runs from one to 10, a mineral can scratch another of equal or lesser hardness. Rocks can be evaluated on the Mohs scale by considering their constituent minerals. Granite typically has a Mohs ranking between 5.5 and 7. The higher the proportion of quartz, which itself has a hardness of seven, the harder the given type of granite. Quartz monzonite, which tends to contain less quartz than granite, is of a hardness – 5.5 to 6 – similar to the low end of the granite Mohs scale."
Read more: Quartz Monzonite Vs. Granite Hardness | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/info_12111507_quartz-monzonite-vs-granite-hardness.html#ixzz2ECJ0G23K
My understanding is that quartzite is formed from sandstone, which then makes sense as to it being softer than granite. But THEN I found another site that said quartzite is 7 on the Mohs scale, a little higher than granite. Perhaps the hardness of the WHITE quartzite is what is in question - is the white less hard than the granite?
Help - I need some clarification on this too!
@Stoneshop - my slab was called Namibian Fantasy and I swore it was marble when I saw it. The stone yard is calling it quartzite but I wonder. It seems there is a lot of wiggle room when labeling these products. I had another stone yard tell me that quartzite is synonymous with granite. I don't think that's true but there's no clarity out there. I am learning that every slab is different in terms of stain/etching and you should test your actual slab before purchasing.
With regards to the soapstone, I agree with Kathryn Peltier Design, that a leather finish or honed finish on a darker granite would be a great option.
I think that the upkeep question really is the main question. Any of these materials CAN be used, but as Carolyn said, you have to ascertain your degree of comfort with the maintenance and durability of each. Getting the look you want combined with the durability you want may entail some compromise, but don't give up!
Yes, I was referring to natural quartzite when I made those comments about the hardness of quartzite--not man-made quartz. That is the information that all of our suppliers and one of our VPs told us. We have installed quartzite for numerous customers, and we have not received any complaints--they all love it! Especially those who want the look of marble without the maintenance.
There is so much information out there that it is difficult to know what to believe and what is false.
cmottesen,
Good for you for testing a piece of the slab before purchasing. We tell all of our customers to do that (especially those considering marble) to see if they are comfortable with the maintenance. Every slab is a little different, so it is good to know what you're dealing with! There is alot of wiggle room and confusion when it comes to labeling/classifying slabs. So many different companies call slabs different names--and even different materials! We have experienced this when researching slabs for customers. Just do your homework and keep on searching! I would ask the stoneyard if that slab has any other names. Then possibly you could research it online to see what material it really is.
Everyone I know who has silestone/ceasarstone et al just LOVES it, and in the past 5 years there have been a lot of new colors and textures released that look much more organic than the old "Kona Beige" and "Sahara Blue."
Good call on the soapstone being a bit high maintenance. We have had customers use soapstone on two occasions and both have found that it marks easily and the oiling is tedious.
However, the color may not be true to the photo. I agree about the valance and my first inclination is to give the cabinetry more character. And perhaps add a raised eating bar to the island.
Then you can live with it for awhile in its new state and with a proper ledge for the stools, and save up for the rest if you decide that is not enough of a change to make the color bearable for you. That money could go for better ventilation, or picking a nicer floor tile, fixing the bathroom or a new room of carpet,or go toward a nice vacation or camp for the kids.
When I did my kitchen almost 20 years ago now, there were only about 5 colors and 1 pattern in Corian. I opted to do a perimeter of p.lam. (yes, *gasp*!) and an island of granite. I edged all the counters in a wood ogee edge for 3 reasons 1. I liked it 2. It avoided the p.lam. ugly edge and 3. It was less costly than a granite ogee. I think they have stood the test of time well. I don't have a great photo of the counters themselves (and I'd have to clean to take one lol) so here is the best I can do.
Eclectic Kitchen design by
Cambria doesn't need to be sealed, ever. The only thing you do have to worry about is citrus etching it. But citrus should be avoided on all counter tops anyway!!!
Might I also suggest a cusion-step vinyl on the floor? Great for dogs and kids spilling (no seams!) and softer underfoot.
The refinishing is done in place and by hand by firms who specialize in marble and stone care. They use very fine wet sandpaper. Then they apply a solvent to get rid of the old sealant and finally apply the new sealant. The whole process takes several hours and the counters have to stay dry for 24 hours.
I think granite is overdone in the extreme. I have solid surface in something that looks like spotted milk glass and I absolutely love it. The only drawback from my point of view is that it can't take pot heat.
I don't know where you are in PA, but I googled reclaimed wood countertop pennsylvania, and saw a few interesting sites: glumber.com is in Germantown. elmwoodreclaimedtimber.com is in MO, but they ship. antiquewoodworks.com. and greenecoservices.com for PA has a listing of providers if you can find a carpenter. I'll send a photo if I can.... :)
I'd recommend thinking about linoleum for the flooring - most people like yourself do want wood or tile but linoleum is hard-wearing, lower cost and actually kind to the environment. I've got a bit more info here: http://www.remodelormove.com/articles/what-are-the-benefits-of-linoleum-flooring
Check my comment on “How to Plan Your Kitchen Storage for Maximum Efficiency”...you will see what I mean.
While we do NOT have little kids, I entertain a lot, have a HUGE Argentian Mastiff - who lives in the house, a cat, I garden and our french doors go right out onto the deck - so there is a LOT of in and out, and YES - we have wooden floors in the kitchen.
IF you are in the kitchen a lot - wooden floors are MUCH easier on the back and feet. And, my house if very old, and has original heart pine, and I put prefinished OAK in the kitchen because it was on sale, and the original floors in the kitchen could not be saved. BUT you can MATCH the other floors - there are a lot of flooring places wihich will do this, and you can ask for repurposed wood - and then you can just have the finish matched. Wa-la!
We are in the process of chosing what materials we want in our kitchen - which will be a redo of a house which is 116 years old. I looked at soapstone - but very expensive - but was a material in victorian homes AND it absorbs light - as I have a wall of windows - without curtains as they start way above where regular windows are now - I wanted the soapstone because it DOES ABSORB the light. If you want a bright kitchen YOU should consider this before chosing soapstone? Yes?
I have recently been to home depot - looking at counter materials and they have a entire new line of WOOD surface materials for countertops. I THINK you might be impressed. Check it out.
Also: please check out VanDykes.com - I like the idea of you painting your island a darker color - even love the red idea - but you can purchase the legs and corbels from this vendor. They have EVERYTHING you can think of, from lights to hinges. If you extend the counter on the island and add some legs it would add some very interestng architectural detail to your room.
They also sell all of the matching hardware you can dream of.
Please keep us posted. But do check out the wooden countertops at Home Depot, and personally I like the idea of the black and white angled flooring AND there IS a new UNDERpinning for tile floors that is both waterproof and mositure proof - which is laid down under the tile. It might make it a little softer and warmer if this is what you choose.
Let us know :-)
As for wood floors in the kitchen, I would never have anything else. I'm in my 3rd house with wooden floors in the kitchen, and nothing beats it for warmth, and comfort under foot. I have a lovely mat at my sink, and have never had any problems with the floor. I've had tile and stone floors in kitchens, and they were lovely, but SO hard on my feet and joints.
In the first pic, you can see my island and kitchen; the second pic shows a close up of the kashmir white in our butler's pantry.
keep us posted on what you do!