Stay with old wood Anderson windows or update?
I have a 1950's ranch style house that is in very, very good condition and I want to do some updating but since it was so well cared for I don't want to go overboard with renovations. I started updating in the back bedrooms and the windows are double hung Anderson, wood windows in what I would call "good" condition and I'm contemplating replacing them with better, higher end fiberglass/vinyl windows (wood is too expensive). So my question is: is this a good idea and would I get my money back when selling the house? I've had people say they like the old windows (they're not too drafty) and I'm not sure how much I would gain by adding new, white windows with updated white trim. I just wanted some ideas from people with a better eye for this stuff.
Thanks
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Out of curiosity, what do they measure?
Thanks again.
Love the two over two windows in the pix.
Anderson Windows, any rebates available?
http://starcraftcustombuilders.com/windows.htm (A great summary of wood window research)
Save your money. Don't put perfectly good stuff in the landfill. Keep them and leave them be--lots of people like natural wood. White woodwork is all the rage right now, in part because it covers cheap wood and MDF and so forth. Soon enough, tastes will change.
I would replace windows only in heavy use areas, such as the kitchen, and preferably matching the original and in the back of the house, and possibly in very hard to reach areas. or if you have picture windows and need ventilation. If you look at old houses, you often see old windows soldiering on without any maintenance at all in the attic quite well despite decades of neglect. Not sure how a modern window would last that way.
Once you replace, you are on a treadmill of window replacement required on a periodic basis--way more expensive than periodic maintenance required. If you do replace, opt for the high quality windows.
I know one major reason people spend money on replacing windows is they don't know how to maintain older windows. How many people know here have glazed a window within the past year? I think I keep the local glass supplier in business fixing old windows
Stripping paint is a requirement for proper repairs and the windows may need new weatherstripping and caulking. A lot of old windows aren't so bad in themselves, but the surrounding wall isn't insulated, so lack of insulation around with window could be the source of drafts.
Windows only have a 1 (single glazed) to maybe a 3 and a fraction R value for the very most energy efficient windows you can buy. A typical wall has an R factor of about 10..
Replacing window putty window isn't that difficult, and there are many resources for fixing broken panes, and so forth. Back when, people grew up learning these skills, folks broke out the ladder every fall and spring to check and for touch ups. But now they are becoming a rarity. Not that difficult, but does take some practice. There is a program in Michigan (Historic Preservation Network) that teaches young workmen how to repair windows at a rate of about one day and $100 each. I wish more people knew how to do it.
The problem could be the type of putty you are using as well. The DAP brand doesn't hold up very well.
The very best is John Leeke, decades of experience, useful tips for temporary repair, lots of helpful videos on his website, and a very thorough book)
http://www.oldhouseonline.com/window-repair-tips-from-john-leeke/ (9 tips)
http://www.myoldhouseonline.com/profile/JohnLeeke (stremlined version of his web site, good lead paint tips)
http://www.historichomeworks.com/hhw/reports/reports.htm (lots of videos and downloads)
Book:
http://www.amazon.com/Save-Americas-Windows-historic-windows/dp/146628644X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1355004013&sr=8-1&keywords=john+leeke ($40)
Cheaper book:
http://www.amazon.com/Working-Windows-3rd-Repair-Restoration/dp/1599213117/ref=pd_sim_b_1 $12
Stripping paint:
http://www.oldewindowrestorer.com/steamstripper.html (safer and more economical than other methods to remove old paint) Basically this is a commercial grade clothes steamer retrofitted with ShopVac parts.
Do not use a heat gun near glass! The glass will crack. Infared is another possibility for safe paint removal, but they are pricey. If the number of windows are limited, you could try chemicals for the sash, and heat gun for the casing.
Go slow, and plan on working over a year or two a little at a time. Granted, it is work to do a whole house. Start with a few not so bad windows to learn, and then tackle a few harder ones. Missing or cracked muntins can be patched in with new wood or filled in with Bondo. Rotted sills can be temporarily fixed with masking tape and paint until you have time to do it. Caulk the casing one at a time.
Once you replace the glazing putty, don't forget to overlap the paint a little bit to seal the joint.
Cheap, low tech options:
And for the really leaky windows, use window film and/or use removable caulk to seal until spring. Doesn't cost much and works really well. We just leave both up year round on our picture windows--it is hardly noticable.
Even bubble wrap affixed with a spray of water will double the R value of your window, and looks pretty nice actually. Behind a curtain, it is hardly noticable. Thermal blinds and drapes can do a lot too.
Go to a commercial glass supplier or a real paint store for putty. I use an oil based product called "wonder Putty" A gallon costs about $30 but most people wouldn't need more than a quart. I've also heard good comments about Crawford's putty which is sold by Sherwin Williams in this area.
It takes patience, but once you get the house on a maintenance schedule, it won't be as bad. All that "no maintenance" stuff just means it gets crappy looking in 10-20 years or so, and then you replace it.
People tend not to stay in their house as long as they used to, so maybe that is another reason they don't want to invest the time or energy or the quality. I can sympathize. Our house will never sell for what we put into it, no matter what we do.