Is Our Cabinetry Guy Ripping Us Off?!-Boston Area
Our home is under construction. We are not happy with basic cabinets the builder is offering, so we went to the cabinetry place he works with and ask for "hudson door style" with "antique white color" (see below). We also asked for a spice pull-out rack to be built in and one extra cabinet containing lazy susan. He gave us a quote with additional $6000!(the allowance was only 4500 from the builder). There are about 14 cabinets, our kitchen is not big. That will give us almost extra $450 for every cabinet upgrade! We are new to everything, but I get the feeling the cabinetry guy is trying to make a very happy new year from us!!What do you think?
| Share: |
|
More Discussions
Here's something to consider....how did you find that cabinet company? Were you referred? Or did you just do an online search. Of course, just looking for companies and picking one is not necessarily a bad idea (many of our clients find us that way), but in order to know if you're getting a good deal, you need to know what kind of company you're working with. Have you looked online for reviews?
Have you gotten quotes from other cabinet companies? You really should get at least one or two more on such a high-ticket item as cabinets. I really recommend asking any friends/ family / coworkers who have recently gotten cabinets who they used. Ask them about the pricing they were given and if they were happy with the quality of cabinet and installation. Another great way to get a referral is to ask the houzz community if they know anyone in your area who does quality cabinet work.
Lastly, have you asked the cabinet company why their prices are so much higher than the builders'? When quoting granite for clients with new homes, we are a good deal more expensive than the builder options for granite, but we're very competitive on the market. Many of our clients haven't gotten quotes anywhere but their builder, and they ask us why we are more expensive. We explain to them the various factors that make our granite more expensive and why those factors are important. I'm sure, if you're working with a reputable company, that they would be happy to explain why their prices are higher. If they can't come up with a satisfactory answer, then you may want to move on to a different company.
Good luck!
Go to a home center and examine the cabinets they have on display. Look at their construction details (what material are the boxes and shelves made of?) and hardware (hinges and drawer glides, not handles or pulls) to get an idea what the mass-produced state of the art is. Then get the cabinet shop to tell and show you why their cabinet construction and hardware are worth the extra money.
So anyone knows a good kitchen place we could go to get the second quote?
Thanks!
Also, need to understand that many "stock" cabinets are quite good in quality - it doesn't have to be custom to be good. There are stock lines that are full furniture grade plywood boxes (which is what a good custom shop is going to use) and wood doors/drawers. That may be the difference here - it's worth finding out.
There are also some very expensive, cheaply made cabinets that use particle board, frameless boxes - and these are some brand names that people throw out as the "top of the line". To their credit, they do have beautiful finishes.
Good for you for being willing to educate yourself. It takes some time to get through the maze and find out what you are really buying.
Drawers-Solid wood drawers are more expensive than high density fiberboard which has a thin layer of covering. It may be white or it may look like wood. Solid wood drawers that are dovetailed will cost more. Drawer bottoms that are set into a groove are better quality. Lower quality bottoms will be stapled and there is a likelihood that the bottoms will fall out eventually in at least a few drawers.
Doors: Mortise and Tenon (corners come together at right angles) are cheaper but just as good quality as mitered (diagonal corners like you have pictured.) Doors with raised panels in the middle (like you have pictured) are more expensive than doors that have flat panels in the middle. Doors that have an applied molding between the outside and the inside panel are more expensive. What you have pictured does not appear to have applied molding but is made to look that way. Doors that are high density particle board (and are actually harder than wood) are more expensive than most commonly used woods and will not shrink like wood but they are more prone to moisture problems. They have what is called a foil covering, not a paint.
There are two basic cabinet types: Framed and frameless. Framed cabinets often use an exposed hinge and as the name implies, have a part of the fame showing around the door. Frameless cabinets usually use European hinges that are self closing and sometimes self and soft closing. There is hardly any, if any at all, frame showing around the door. (Make sure your doors have bumpers on them so they don't bang when being shut.) Different manufacturers charge differently for the two types of cabinets. Some charge more for one than the other and vice-versa.
Cabinet boxes: You will probably have to ask about these as you will probably not be able to tell by looking at them. 3/4" cabinet grade plywood is definitely more expensive and is used by custom cabinet shops. It is more solid and has a hard lacquer coating. Stock cabinet companies use 1/2" and 3/8" plywood and particle board with a vinyl type covering. Stock cabinet companies use a lot of glue for construction. Custom cabinets companies use screws and glue.
Bracing: All cabinets need some sort of bracing to screw them to the wall. Custom cabinet companies will usually use 3/4" bracing. Stock cabinets often will use shabby thin bracing.
Shelving: A good cabinet will use solid plywood shelving instead of particle board which will sag over time. Look for metal shelf supports instead of plastic. Also look for adjustable shelving in the lower cabinets. Cheaper cabinets will have a fixed solid shelf on the bottom.
Drawer Slides: There are quite a few drawer slides that are good and both types of cabinets will use similar ones. However, there are features to look for: Some are made to extend the drawer only 3/4" of the way. Others are called full extension slides and will extend the drawer all the way out. These are obviously better and more expensive. Most drawer slides will self close once the drawer front get so close to the cabinet--but not all of them. Some slides are concealed on the bottom. This is for looks, not performance. Some are attached to the sides and some wrap around the bottom of the side and the bottom of the drawer. The best slides are ball bearing which is metal, the others are roller bearing and the roller is plastic. Both types are functional and last. Concealed slides are aesthetically better if you have dovetailed drawers
BTW--Lower priced cabinet lines offer fewer choices in cabinet sizes, which often will change the whole design of the kitchen.
eagledzines had some good points, but not everything is accurate. There are too many variables in cabinetry that affect the price and it is worth the time (if you have it) to understand more of the basics upfront. We can't always have the best of everything, but we should try to get the best we can afford particularly with a product like cabinetry. Good luck with your project!
Good luck.
Otherwise, there is an amazing cabinet maker in Sandwich who does outstanding work.
Did you find out whether the cabinet boxes on both the builder's and the upgrade are plywood (and of a comparable thickness/quality)?
Interesting discussions about the quality of cabinets.
To answer your question: "Did you find out whether the cabinet boxes on both the builder's and the upgrade are plywood (and of a comparable thickness/quality)?"
Yes. they are both plywood, and have a similar quality.
Best of luck!
I've been in my "starter house" 9 years. Kitchens are the number one feature that sells a home. Baths are number two. Upgraded cabinets are something that adds equity to your home. But remodeling is all about balance and budget.
Good luck!
1) Your choice of wood. More expensive wood does not mean better quality wood. (with the exception of pine which is a softwood and dents easily. If you want the look of pine, try an Alder or Knotty Alder. It is a hardwood and looks similar).
2) Moldings on the top and the bottom of cabinets, corbells, pillasters and other ornamental items that do not add to the quality of the cabinets but to the looks.
3) Glass doors and shelves, interior lighting, light rails, pullouts on the bottom, appliances such as turntables, trash pullouts, silverware trays can sell for a premium.
4) Your choice of finishes. Some do entail more work such as a glazed finish. Some stains entail spraying, some wiping and some a combination of both. Higher cost is justified but is a matter of taste.