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Part of countertop narrower
Ilija Pavlic
January 5, 2013 in Design Dilemma
I have a door that opens inwards to kitchen space. Because of that, the part of the kitchen directly adjacent to the opened door has to be narrower than local standard of approximately 23.6" (there is only 21" of space available because of the door). The attached layout might illustrate the situation better.

I think that moving the door would be too expensive—the doors are passing through 13" of load bearing concrete and I would have to move electrical switches and lines which are directly next to the door as well.

Pocket door is not an option (again, because of the concrete). Sliding barn door would cover the light switches. Removing the door would not help much, since the passageway would be partly blocked by protruding kitchen elements if they were standard width.

How can I make the transition between the narrower and wider countertop more smooth, so it doesn't stick out?
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feeny
Where you list "planned layout" it looks like you are trying to fit every appliance in your kitchen on one eleven foot wall. This is not viable.
I would take off the door, just to simplify the space, and possibly put a narrower floor to ceiling pantry in the 21" clearance area, or possibly make that whole wall pantry cabinetry rather than counters. Alternately, just make that whole wall custom 21" deep counters and cabinets and put your deeper appliances against the longer wall.

Or just change the position of the door.
January 5, 2013 at 6:06AM   
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Ilija Pavlic
I am afraid that might take too much of the room for a function that takes 15% of my time as opposed to 70% seating/working. I drafted a rough sketch and it seemed workable (the door opens to countertop in reality, not to the room).
January 5, 2013 at 7:53AM   
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charleee
Can you change the way the door swings? Have it swing out of the kitchen, instead of into the kitchen?
January 5, 2013 at 8:08AM   
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PRO
A Kitchen That Works LLC
Is the blue shaded area a sliding glass door? If is is a window, how high off the floor is the sill?
Per your drawing, you may find it difficult to properly open the refrigerator door and more specifically get the crisper bins out for cleaning. I concur with feeny that it is a bit cramped on the one wall, have you considered an L configuration, returning down the 18' wall? If you choose to stick with you original configuration, I recommend raising the wall cabs over the sink.
January 5, 2013 at 8:16AM     
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PRO
TJP Designs and Construction LLC
A full height 36" wide pantry cabinet 20" deep (or 15") and then transition to a standard 24" deep counter will accommodate the door and not look out of place at all!
January 5, 2013 at 8:17AM     
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PRO
Interiors International, Inc.
I agree with both A Kitchen That Works LLC and TJP these ideas will definitely work.
January 5, 2013 at 8:24AM   
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Ilija Pavlic
A Kitchen That Works LLC: It is a three pane window, starting 35" from the floor. Here is the entire floor plan (approximate), in metric units. As for the refrigerator, there is additional 2" leeway added to the standard 23.6" length/width. It is a valid point though. The problem with L configurations is that I cannot move the water connections much. Some 15" more to west are all I can work with. It seems that the fridge would have to end the L then (on the long wall) stifling the space left in the corner. Do you have some suggestions on how to arrange the L for an efficient kitchen triangle (with the water position fixed to 10-15" from current position)? I'll be sure to choose appropriate height for cabinets (both users of the kitchen will be averagely tall younger generation persons - 6', 5' 9").

olldbobbi: The floor plan is useful for answering your question. Swinging the door out would obstruct hallway door path and hallway traffic.

TJP: I googled for pantry cabinets and found something similar (attached). It seems like the cabinet is connected with a curved countertop. I think my original question was in that line: how can I connect it to be more seamless (so, curved countertop would be one idea). Thank you very much!
January 5, 2013 at 9:12AM   
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Ilija Pavlic
I made an illustration based on my floor plan on how the zones might look in an L shaped kitchen. I like how the dining area gets easily integrated (getting "hugged" by the L) and is situated directly underneath the current light fixture spot. There are some problems with walkway widths on west and south sides, but most of the time there shouldn't be anybody sitting there.
January 5, 2013 at 9:48AM   
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PRO
A Kitchen That Works LLC
Is this kitchen a secondary kitchen or a primary kitchen, if primary, it seems like the ratios for the space allocation are not in balance. What if you were to move the radiator more to left, you will lose some ov the convection properties of having placed under the window but.... You can reduce the unattractive pipe coming from the wall and you could build in a banquette in the upper left corner of the drawing an place a couch on the right and wall.
January 6, 2013 at 7:06AM   
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Ilija Pavlic
A Kitchen That Works LLC: I'll attach the entire floor plan once again (this time in English). You're looking at an approximately 400 square foot apartment, so this is the only kitchen space. What do you mean by space allocation? (The 70-15-15 ratio is approximately how much time is spent on each function). How would you suggest improving the balance? Thank you very much for your help!
January 6, 2013 at 8:29AM   
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PRO
A Kitchen That Works LLC
Illija,
Thanks for posting the floor plan. It is now clearer what you are trying to achieve. With respect to the ratios, this is a lifestyle choice as to how you allocate the space. At this juncture and to ensure you make the most of the space, I would recommend you hire a local designer who is familiar with the local building codes as well as locally available materials and can guide you per your homeowners covenants. Wishing you much success with your project!
January 6, 2013 at 11:08AM   
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