SFGate

Conscious Construction Inc. A few of the basics I like to include are

-Advanced framing such as minimal headers, 24"oc layout, ....eliminate all the extra lumber that goes into most new homes are fill that space with insulation.

-Open floor plan with ductless heatpump heating (and AC)

-Exterior foam for thermal breaks (not sure how much in your climate. We do 1" in southern oregon but you probably need more to keep the dew point outside the wall.

Good Luck!

rawketgrl In your area I believe a geothermal heat pump is a viable option. I am sure you are already planning on getting the biggest R value insulation you can in your ceiling and make sure the attic is well vented and adding a fan if possible. Pick a roof with the best Solar Reflective Index (SRI) and Thermal Emittance ratings you can find. Here is a link to an article that may give you more ideas....
http://1.usa.gov/154MEFf good luck...

Dytecture Nothing beats proper insulation along with solar design especially in Canada.

Ironwood Builders Heat rises....Your radiant heat idea is probably better than a heat pump with a 94% efficient boiler like the Baxi Luna in your climate. The Luna can do double duty as a hot water heater too. Here in coastal California we don't get as bitter cold, but the heating season is all year long in some micro-climates. I agree about using high efficiency framing and an exterior thermal break of closed cell foam. There are waterproofing/intrusion issues when placing foam on a buildings exterior. Benjamin Obdyke makes a weep fabric that we use in conjunction with a moisture barrier. With stucco a double moisture barrier with the weep in between is pretty bombproof (and specified by the manufacturer). Windows and doors get a little built out with the foam and additional moisture proofing. If you can fit it into the budget, replacing any fiberglass insulation with spray foam is better. We are required to use a minimum 2X6 exterior wall for an R19 value. The heat recovery from drains is usually workable on two or three story buildings. With a slab on grade, you wont be draining hot water down a long vertical pipe (I've only seen the system with a copper coil run around a vertical pipe as a preheat for the hot water heater). With a boiler, the preheat may not be worth it anyway. Electrical use is energy consumption too, so occupancy sensors on all lighting, high efficiency light, LED or florescent through out the house. There are numerous articles and books on home energy efficiency...do your homework and be an informed buyer. Take a look at the Building Science Corporation's website for building tech issues (www.buildingscience.com). They are based in Boston, so maybe a little closer to your climate than NorCal.

Studio Homes wow... tons of great info! i super appreciate it all. I dont know what I think about"minimal framing".... worries me that it wouldnt be very strong...and for hanging sheetrock not very easy. But i do understand the concept...more insulation.

Around here heat pumps are taking the market by storm. I have talked to some ppl who say their in floor radiant hot water heat (by elrctric boiler) is costing them an absolute fortune. The heat pump is suppose to cut that power bill by a lot. But I dont understand how it can spread the heat through the house and into bedrooms and so on. Do you need a few to distribute the heat? also seems like a waste to have the expense of heat pumps and in floor heat...but maybe not. I have heard heat pumps are only good to -15 and the in floor could be useful then. also maybe leave it on really low to keep floors warm. Do any of my theories make sense?

Conscious Construction Inc. I should clarify.... Perhaps "minimal" is the wrong word. What I am talking about is eliminating the unnecessary non-structural lumber that goes into many homes. Strength is not compromised (nor is the ability to hang siding or sheetrock.) Some of the techniques we have been using to build homes for decades are not used because they are "the best way" but rather "the way it's always been done".

If you Google "Advanced Framing Technique" you can find a lot of information about it. We have been doing it for years with no issues and my structural engineer (who is no pushover!) has signed off on it.

Saves trees and allows more insulation!

danielrayhancock Consider not using framing for the walls and replace them with Structural Insulated Panels (SIP's). They are far and away more energy efficient and stronger. For a comprehensive look at what you can do to build more efficiently take a look at the U.S Green Building Council website. You can also consider turning it into a LEED project which will ensure it is not only energy efficient, but built using renewable resources/energy as much as possible. The LEED standards also stipulate indoor air quality, etc... Information about LEED is also available at the U.S. Green Building Council. Good luck and I think it's great your planning energy efficiency into the initial build.