Home of the San Francisco Chronicle

Subscribe to the weekend Chronicle

powered by
Discussions
Photos
Products
Ideabooks
Discussions
Professionals
Users
by critrnurse
3 months ago in Design Dilemma
In a kitchen remodel,should extra space be created in the cabinetry in case the fridge must be replaced?
In other words, should the space be sized to fit the refrigerator that you will use now, or extra space given to allow for a different one in the case of the fridge breaking down and being replaced?
Share:
 
Ironwood Builders Are you planning to purchase a new refrigerator or is the one going in the new one and you want to prepare for the next big thing in refrigerators? Not sure what the next big thing is... I wish I knew....I'd be buying Lotto tickets in every state in union. My advice is, if your current refrigerator is more than 5 years old...get the new one now and make the space fit it. Buy the best one you can afford and it will last 10 years or more (with service). When and if something better comes down the pike, you will have had the perfectly fitted kitchen and refrigerator for as long as you can stand to look at them. Make adjustments for that time when it arrives.
3 months ago ·
critrnurse The situation is that i recently had my kitchen remodeled and bought a brand new fridge for the remodel. It is not built in. Unfortunately, the freezer has broken down after just a few months, and when I got someone to come out to fix it, they discovered that they cannot slide it all the way out to access the plug or anything in back. All of the doors must be removed to do so. This will cost me extra for service time, food will get warm, and it's a pain! So I wonder if this is okay, and now I worry about the space being so tight if and when I must get a new fridge. I don't want to tear anythingup to do it, not now or 10 years from now...it's very nice cabinetry.
3 months ago ·
Ironwood Builders Hmm, that doesn't sound right. The typical cord for a refrigerator is around 8' and the icemaker line is either a front hook up or has the shut off accessible in another cabinet for disconnect...or both. We have to plug them in when we install and work around them. It can get snug...many of the cords now have an elastic or a spring to keep them up out of the way, so it can be a squeeze to get behind....but big burly guys do it all the time. Some refrigerators require the service outlet for the electrical to be in a very specific spot...if yours is in the wrong place for your unit it might be the cause of some of this issue. How does taking the doors off allow you to get to the back of the appliance?
3 months ago ·
Dytecture One should leave at least an inch on either side for ease of servicing. It wouldn't be too big of a concern since most fridges come in all shapes and sizes, so it would be just a matter of finding the right size that fits the old space.
3 months ago ·
critrnurse Ironwood, when you try to slide the fridge out, it bumps against the island before it is completely out. Before you can see/reach/access the back, cord, etc. you must remove the doors to make the fridge smaller (less depth). Then and only then you can slide it out of its space completely.
3 months ago ·
Norm Walters Construction Inc. Sounds like the Island is a bit too large and close to the refrigerator. A counter depth refrigerator would help.
3 months ago · ·
Ironwood Builders Norm has it. I assume you have the code minimum 36" between cabinets and you have a 38" deep refrigerator, ergo the doors coming off. Problem with a cabinet depth fridge is that hey tend to come in the 36" width...meaning the door will hit the island when it is open...which, unless you have a side by side, happens now? I'm sorry...this is maybe unsolvable, without reconfiguring the island.
3 months ago ·
critrnurse There are 28.5" between the fridge doors and the granite that's on top of the counter. There are about 31" between the cabinet front and the island/granite, so it's very tight. There is less than 1/4" between the sides of the fridge and the panels/cabinetry to the sides of it. I think these are serious mistakes. It is really important to scrutinize a remodeling company before hiring them, and I've learned my lesson the hard way!
3 months ago ·
Ironwood Builders Where did you get your cabinet plans? Did you purchase the cabinets or did the contractor?
did the contractor obtain permits? Is the contractor licensed?Unpermitted work is very difficult to get compensation for through the legal system. Using unlicensed contractors may be less expensive up front, but you have no legal recourse there, unless a claim of being licensed was made. The work is not to code...not in any area of the US that I am aware of. Where is your home located? I'm sorry for your pain...I think a conversation with the contractor is where to start. I'll check back...
3 months ago ·
Norm Walters Construction Inc. I put some of the blame on the granite fabricator. They were your last line of defense and should have called the contractor out on this. Since all counter tops have an overhang aren't they in fact adding to the encroachment problem? The buck stops with the contractor but the subs should say something when they know a problem exists. If I were the fabricator I wouldn't have done the job, or if I did I would have written a disclaimer in the contract.
3 months ago ·
critrnurse I hired a big local remodeling company that does kitchens and baths. They used their own designer for the plans, their own contractor, and hired their own subs.
3 months ago ·
Norm Walters Construction Inc. Maybe there wasn't enough room for a center island period. The 36" rule is standard. I use 2020 design software, one of the most popular software programs, and when I make a mistake a red light comes on informing me of the same.
3 months ago ·
Deborah Butler, Brickwood Builders I agree, talk with the contractor.

David, question about code interpretation. As long as there is at least one clear path that meets egress requirements, is there really a code requirement that all paths within the kitchen be a minimum of 3'? I understand that "good design" would dictate at least 36" and most would prefer 42", but curious about code. I can't find any reference to that in our current code book. If it is code, I need to find it and mark it as we have some clients that insist on reducing the pathways and while we resist, we have done it on occasion and it has always passed inspection. Thanks.
3 months ago ·
critrnurse I will be dealing with the company about this. Thanks for your input about this, and, again, before we hire, we must leave no stone unturned...
3 months ago ·
Arlene Warda, Architecture+Interior Design Hi, I agree with the clearances above. Is this your permanent refrigerator? if you plan an upgrade make sure the size fits your final refrigerator upgrade, one desired as permanent. I notice you did not list a size of your 'current' refrig, or new 'desired' frig. Good comments on clearances above!..
3 months ago ·
critrnurse It's a brand new fridge, a brand new kitchen from top to bottom, and throwing out the new fridge is out of the question. I don't want to throw away or upgrade anything, as it's all only 8 months old.
3 months ago ·
Sign Up to comment
The content on this page is provided by Houzz and is subject to the Houzz terms of use, copyright and privacy policy.
Copyright claims: contact the Houzz designated agent.