SFGate

eztia Do you have a desk/tabletop running the length of the 11 foot opening? If so, perhaps you could install sliding drawer hardware. One under the writing surface, accessible on hands and knees for CPU, reams of paper, and other heavy items.
Drawer pull outs at writing surface height, accessible if you clear 24 inches of the writing surface, for files you need daily or weekly, packages of printable labels, also, "desk drawer" supplies like scissors, staple remover, box of staples, paper clips, binder clips, rubber bands, tape, string, markers, envelopes, postage stamps, address labels, etc. Drawer up high for boxes of Christmas cards you got on sale for next year, empty 3- ring binders or other supplies needed infrequently.
If you choose this method, mark a line on the writing surface so you know how far to shift items so the drawer can open fully.

lkellyfl The closet is just for storing supplies--paper, post it notes, paper clips, etc. We have three, three drawer plastic bins that we use for the small stuff and have had all of this on a stand alone shelving unit but wanted to get rid of that to get easier access to the side shelves...

eztia Hmmm... How about making five "rafts" on casters for the closet? Make two of them to fit in the recesses on either side (approximately 24x24). Make three "rafts" about 18 width x 24 depth. Now, you will always have access to four of the five "rafts." Slide them over to access the one that is always in one recessed area or the other. This way, only 6 inches of lateral closet space is lost instead of 48 inches lost currently.

lkellyfl Sounds interesting--where I can I see this so I can figure out how to do???

eztia I visualized it in my head. I am thinking how it could be assembled from parts and products at a hardware store or whether it should be built. Give me a day or so to hunt for possible products that might be used to make the project.

lkellyfl That is great! I have a vague idea of what you are describing and how it might work but not enough to follow through!

eztia I am getting a bit overwhelmed with choices, myself! Here is a shout out to any Houzzers who like fabrication and tinkering! How would you build this project??

olldroo Sorry, ez, you have lost me. Are you suggesting putting sliding modules on the shelves that you can move sideways to then pull the end module across to access? That suggests to me that you would have to remove one centre module to pull the side ones across. Problem here could be weight also. Stationery can be very heavy stored in bulk. Ikelly - can you post a photo, I'm not fully getting it.

onthefence Try this -- build shelves (or use metro shelving) on each end. Have the shelves face toward the center of the closet (facing each other and not toward the room). Use these for stationery, paper, etc.

For the center, get 2 metro shelf units. You can configure them with various shelf depth and height of unit. Each shelf holds a lot of weight - but don't overload either of them. I'd suggest 2.5 to 3' wide for each. Get casters for each one. You can roll them out into the room if need be to access the side shelves. However, with them being on casters, you may be able to have enough wiggle room to move them over 6 inches or so to grab a ream of paper.

And from one home office dweller to another.... Office Depot, etc delivers quickly ;-) I realized I didn't need to stock up on some things quite as much as I did.

Attached is a favorite place I've used for Metro shelving. You can buy it in a lot of places but this site has a great selection and seems to have decent sales.
http://www.shelving.com/18-Deep-Chrome-Wires-Shelving-Units-s/538.htm

onthefence BTW, I think the shelves at each end need to be fixed and not movable. And if you're using them to store reams of paper/stationery you want them to be STURDY.

onthefence Another option might be this - build shelves at each end still facing in toward the center of the closet. Build shelves as well on the long wall facing out into the room only do these shallower and not the full depth of the closet. You'd be building shelves in the same shape as the closet - just lining the walls rather than filling the closet with shelving.

When you open the door, there should be enough room to partially step in to the closet to face the end shelves and access what you need from them.

eztia Good idea from onthefence about building STURDY shelves facing the center of the closet in the two recessed areas.
I was thinking you could then have three rolling sets of shelving or "rafts" that pull completely out of the closet, kinda like four drawer file cabinets on wheels, but just shelves, 18" wide and the 24" depth of the closet. There would be 6" of air space not filled with shelving.

lkellyfl OK--think I am getting it. We already have shelves on the ends that face in to the closet but they have not been easily accessible because of the stationary shelf unit we had in there. I think if we put in shelving that is not as deep as that unit, we could indeed reach the sides more easily. I like the idea of shelves on wheels but we just put in new hardwood floors and I need to see if they could handle things being rolled out often! Am attaching photos--the doors have not been put back on and the shelves are stuffed because we had to get the closet floor free.

lkellyfl Not sure why both photos didn't post but here is the view of the closet from the front.

eztia Ah, then it seems the best plan is to use the one onthefence suggested. Install shallow shelving across the back of the closet. You might want to measure the objects you plan to put on those shelves. Do they need to be 8 1/2 inches deep? Shallower?

onthefence Yep, with new hardwood floors you probably want to avoid a rolling unit. No sense in testing their wear more than you have to!

The recessed shelves look great! I agree that doing something shallower in the center section is probably going to be your best bet. For the center section, can I suggest still using the Metro shelving? You could do one long unit or 2 or 3 narrower ones. That way, if you DO decide later you want something on wheels, it's just a matter of buying the casters. Or, if you want to convert this back to a clothes closet, you just pull out the metro and you're ready.

Another thing I like about the Metro shelving is that the shelves are adjustable. Yes, you have to take the whole thing apart to do so - but it CAN be changed without construction. I've never really trusted adjustable shelving in a built in - particularly when I want to put a lot of weight on a shelf.

One other thought - if you have power available in the closet and have wireless capabilities, you may be able to move your printer in there.

lkellyfl Perfect! Thanks to all who helped me figure this out. Am looking at Metro shelving and will go with the shallower shelf in the middle. Thanks again--my first time trying this out and it really did give me somewhere to go!

eztia I am happy we all thought of ideas for a plan for you! One suggestion, please paint the inside of the closet before you start putting items back in there. You will be happier in the long run. Light color semi-gloss is easy to maintain.

lkellyfl Absolutely! Exactly what I told my husband. It will be great.

onthefence Sounds like you're on your way! Congratulations. I know sometimes a 2nd set of eyes that has never seen the room can see things in a whole different way. I'm so glad a good storage solution was reached. Home based business are a great thing...but they can be a challenge storage-wise.