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rawketgrl Wow lots of great options. Could you outline again what your choices are, 1 at a time?

Dezign Studio Inc I would go with a raised panel , but it could be my personal preference. With this molding, the door displayed looks good and would look better with drawers as shown instead of the molding at the edge.
The drawer fronts look more detailed with moldings s shown.

aborrouso Less is more.

CMR Interiors & Design Consultations Inc. Flat panel would look better in my opinion.

CMR Interiors & Design Consultations Inc. Here is a pic of a flat paneled cabinet that is classic-raised panel often looks overly decorative to me.

Urban Ideas Inc. Raised panel looks more traditional, in line with your kitchen design. However, I feel that your kitchen already has a lot of decorative details already such as hood cover, send legs, round table, ....therefore, I believe that the shaker style door with inserted trim, like the pictured posted by you (antique white door) is more appropriated. The raised panel will look definitely too busy. Good luck, Laura

Urban Ideas Inc. One more comment, although not asked by you....Be concerned about marble counters. I saw in the kitchen spec. It is quite demanding in terms of maintenance. For a kitchen this size, I believe that it will be quite used. You don't want to be always worrying about etching and scratching. Laura

wowww thanks for all this! I've been warned about the marble. I really don't mind etching and scratching... gives character. Staining I'm not crazy about, but I plan to be careful and use the island more for preparations... this will be soapstone.

eagledzines Did you do the rendering? Great job!
This kitchens has so many wonderful possibilities in detail. I love it.

I'll try to answer your questions. First I'd like to clarify some terms. Molding is applied to the outside of the door or drawer or the inside of the stile and rails. Stiles and rails are not applied to the door in most cases but are the door along with the inside panel which is either raised or flat. (See image) (image credit www.waltzcraft.com)

Door and drawer styles (as opposed to 'stiles') can be mixed in a kitchen but there should be some coherence between them. In the end, if it is done right, unless a person is really looking at the finer details, he/she won't even notice those differences. The whole kitchen will FEEL comfortable and right. Those differences though have a huge impact on that FEEL by giving it texture, depth and visual interest and harmony and will produce a flush of feeling. The average person won't know where that feeling comes from. They might interpret it as layout or color or 'taste' but it's much more than that. It's lies in bringing all different elements together and making them fit together like they belong together.

Now to address your question about drawers 5", 10" and 10". Whether you CAN use a raised panel or flat panel or whether you can use molding outside or inside the stiles and rails depends on the widths of the stiles rails. If the style you choose uses 2 1/4" stiles and rails, which is typical--one on the top and one on the bottom, that totals 4 1/2" inches, leaving only 1/2" for a flat panel. Obviously that would look ridiculous and be a catchall for dirt. So there are two ways to address this. If these cabinets are custom made (and I hope they are) you can have a solid blank on the 5" drawer or you can request that the rails be made thinner than the 10" drawer stiles and rails. If you were to go with 1 1/4" rails, that would add up to 2 1/2", leaving you 2 1/2" for a flat panel. A raised panel will not fit in 2 1/2". Your 10" drawers could have the normal 2 1/4" stile and rails and that would leave you with 5 1/2" for a flat or a raised panel. The 'raise' of the panel differs in different door styles. Between the stile and rail and the raised part of the door might be 1", 1 1/4", 2" etc. If you were to go with a 1" space to the raised part of the panel all around, the flat part of the raised panel would be 3 1/2" and perfectly acceptable. (10"-2 1/4"-2 1/4"-1"-1"). Notice that in the picture, the rail is smaller than on the door.

If you have a full overlay door, which means no part of the cabinet frame is showing, you will have more room to express the door style (The top drawer would be more than 5"). The more cabinet frame that is showing the smaller the drawers and doors. That would give you more options to use use the molding on the inside of the stiles and rails.

Do I understand correctly that the color of the whole kitchen is the silver distressed door? It looks silver on my screen. Is that actually the color?

eagledzines Here are some well done kitchens that have used various styles of doors and drawers harmoniously. In the first one, flat panel and raised panel were both used. In the second one, inside molding was used on both flat panel and raised panel. In the last one, the exact same door was used but with different finishes.

eagledzines In the glass part above, do you have items to display? or did you want these to be opaque or semi-opaque to hide the contents?

wowww Thank you so much for taking the time to explain these concepts to me. In the end, though, I'm a bit lost. I can see that you are so very good at what you do. Can you tell me what you think is the best way to handle the full overlay doors and drawers? The reason I attached the poor photo of drawers is that I would love to design the drawers to have the molding along the outside edge of all three of the stacked drawers, and leave the center panel flat (I'm sorry, I know I'm not using the correct terminology...also, I'd love to learn it but I am presently under pressure to resolve all these details!). Can you tell me if you think that drawer design would work, or do you have a better idea? I feel so fortunate to be able to share this information with you and "hear" your thoughts. Thank you, in advance!

wowww Also, by the way, the cabinet color is a blue. we're working on that shade of blue right now. The light in the photo is not good.

eagledzines Sorry I couldn't explain better. The short answer is the molding would look great. It may not fit everywhere. It depends on the width of the molding and whether you have raised panels. It also depends on the type of cabinet you have. Also, a raised panel would look great but could be mixed with a flat panel.

Also, the set of blue drawers can be mixed with a raised panel door but I would put the same molding in them. (They are called a 5 piece drawer with a flat panel)

If you tell the cabinet maker what you want to do, he will be able to tell you if it will work.

This is going to be a beautiful kitchen and I love all the details!

eagledzines BTW--If you don't mind me mentioning it. The stove cabinet shows 4 drawers and no toe kick. It would be very important to have a toe kick here. Also, many people like to put pots and pans under the stove top and that requires deep drawers, so there is usually two deep drawers and a false front in front of the stovetop.

wowww I do want to display items. I want the glass to be clear. I think I like the idea of plain clear glass that will reflect more light into the room.

wowww I just want to say that we are waiting for the next color sample to come back (in a day or two) using Ben Moore #1634 with black glaze and medium rub, no distressing. Then we'll have to decide whether or not to distress.

Also, there will be toe kick. I measured the induction pots we'll be getting and nothing is higher than 7 3/4 inches. The drawing is inaccurate here. Only 3 drawers. Sorry, I don't know what a false front is, but what we're doing seems to work. Again, thanks so much for sharing your thoughts... I hope you'll weigh in on the distressing!

Urbana ~ Designer Ellen Crystal 1) be careful with applied moldings as sometimes it increases the thickness of the doors & makes them bind on adjacent fronts so they don't open freely. Get guidance from your fabricator on this.

2) in a small drawer, there isn't often room for a raised panel. the rails can be modified as explained above, but still very tight. It also limits the size handle you can use as the "footprint" can be too large and they won't seat properly.

3) an applied molding can create a deep well on a small front, that when using a shallow knob or handle can actually jam your fingers.

4) there is quite a bit of detail in this kitchen concept, so like others have suggested I'd go with a flat panel door. You can always add additional appliques to that panel.

5) get a professional to build this kitchen. they will adjust the finer details and transitions so that everything with fit properly & work efficiently as with comment above regarding kick plates etc.

Senior Designer~Urbana, Victoria, BC

eagledzines The false front means that the top drawer doesn't open because the stove sits down into the cabinet. So it will looks like there are three drawers but actually there will only be two.
I'm anxious to see your color sample! And will check back.

wowww It looks like we are going to keep a flat panel door and the molding is inside the stiles and rails as in the photo I attached. I would like the molding to be on the perimeter of the drawer as in a new attached image, but I don't know if it will work with a flat panel overlay door. But to "play it safe" I'm going to do the drawers the same as the cabinet doors, that is, molding "indented" from the perimeter, flat inside the molding. (terms!)

wowww because it is an induction cooktop, there is room for 3 'real' drawers

eagledzines Well put Ellen Crystal.

Ironwood Builders A couple of things. The blue butler's pantry shown as an example is a full inset style. I read that our poster is going with a full overlay? With an applied moulding edge to the door and drawer a flat top drawer is needed...and is what is shown in the blue pantry. With a three drawer stack, the two lower drawers will be ample size to use a flat panel and the panel moulding between the stile and rail and the panel. Raised panels will to, but the level of detail is unnecessary to mimic the example. So the example can be built for the kitchen, albeit in full overlay as opposed to full inset. Should work fine because nothing says the stile and rail of the door and drawer need to be 2 1/4". We often make the lower rail a 3 1/4" width, they can expand to work with the applied mouldings. Show these posts to your cabinet maker. He/she will understand the constraints. If they are anything like me they will be impressed with the knowledge of the craft exhibited by eagledzines and Ellen Chrystal.

wowww Thank you for the suggestion Ellen Crystal, but what are appliqués that can be added to flat panel door or drawer? I assume they have to be added when door/drawer is fabricated, or can they be added when hardware is installed? Can you direct me to examples of this? I am not familiar with it.

eagledzines @Ellen Crystal. Good point about the moldings on the door interfering with the opening. If the cabinet maker is a good one that is capable of building this kitchen he will be able to overcome the molding issue. The ability to handle radi properly is not for the amateur. There are hinges specifically designed for doors with deep moldings.
Personally I feel the quantity of detail is consistent with a kitchen of this design, and I wouldn't hesitate to use both flat and raised panel as in the pictures; such as flat panel where the knobs wouldn't otherwise fit properly and raised panel where they would fit. But to each his own.
@Ironwood. Thanks.
@wowww. An applique is a decorative carving that is added before the cabinets are finished and really shows up well when a glaze is applied.
Raymond Enkeboll designes, carry the best products I have seen.http://www.shopenkebolldesigns.com/legacy.html
Another good company is Outwater Plastics
http://www.outwatercatalogs.com/lg_display.cfm/catalog/Master_2012/page/508

wowww The appliques are gorgeous. I don't really know where to use them at this point. We've decided to stick with flat panel full overlay for the perimeter of the kitchen, and inset w/raised panel on a different cabinet door on the island... I've attached a photo of the island cabinet door which will have stain and finish as depicted. The molding with be placed around the perimeter of the island drawers (my favorite style) because that seems to be a safe bet with inset doors.

I'm also wondering if anyone has an idea for what to put above the backsplash, under the hood. If you look at the rendering at the top of this discussion you'll see the design we plan to use for the marble backsplash above the cooktop, but we've actually planned to keep painted drywall btwn the backsplash and the cabinets and hang the antique plates you can see in the photo of the present kitchen.

eagledzines Absolutely gorgeous!! You have such lovely taste.This is an exciting design.

Appliques are often used on range hoods, at the top or around the bottom, or in the center front, or front corners of range hoods. A vertical applique could be use on the wall corner cabinet.

Carved 'aprons' can be used at the bottom of range hoods. The pictures are of aprons from Raymond Enkeboll. They can be cut to fit and can be used at the bottom of any cabinet as long as enough space is left for the toe kick. Nice places to use them are under cabinets that are focal pieces, sink bases, stovetop bases, at the bottom of island cabinets or pantry cabinets.

There are many more applications. If you go to the Enkeboll site and click on "Showcase" you can see how things are used.

Urbana ~ Designer Ellen Crystal Sonoma tiles have the most exquisite medallions & inlaid textural patterns suitable for this kitchen ... this link to brochure is just a start.
http://www.sonomatilemakers.com/brochures/STM_9.pdf

eagledzines One more fabulous company is White River Inc.
www.whiteriverinc.com
The rest of the pictures are from White River Inc.

Pic 1: appliques are used over the sink and refrigerator White River Hardwoods 800-558-0119 | Kitchen Gallery | Hardwood Mouldings & Arch 1
Pic 2: over the sink. Also, carved legs are used on either side of the sink cabinet. They can also be used on either side of the stovetop cabinet, or on the island. White River Hardwoods 800-558-0119 | Kitchen Gallery | Hardwood Mouldings & Arch 2
Pic 3: on either side of the open cabinet (in your kitchen, they could be used on either side of the island drawer cabinets. White River Hardwoods 800-558-0119 | Kitchen Gallery | Hardwood Mouldings & Arch 3
Pic 4: Corbells (the carved braces on the left) and heavy legs on the left (Corbells could be used under the range hood while the heavy legs could be used on the island) White River Hardwoods 800-558-0119 | Kitchen Gallery | Hardwood Mouldings & Arch 4

Not all of these components go together. But if a person likes one or two, other components can be picked out to match and bring everything together.

eagledzines Vertical appliques would also fit on the doors on the island.

eagledzines I'm reinserting that last picture of the island because the heavy wooden leg on the other side didn't come through on the last try.

Keystone Cabinetry Inc. Since 1984 I will do a flat shaker style and slab drawer fronts.

eagledzines A hand painted range hood cabinet would also look good. This one is shaped different but a painting designed to fit the shape of yours would be nice.

eagledzines Since you said you've decided to paint, I'm not sure if you're looking for suggestions about the backsplash. I think so. If not, please ignore this comment. I would look for a 4x4 tumbled marble, either in the marble you will be using or in a blue similar to the last picture I posted.

wowww My goodness, thank you so much for all of this!! So much to consider... The had painted range hood is really pretty. Maybe the painting is done after installation? (we're so pressured for decisions now so anything that can be done later is especially appealing!)

eagledzines Your welcome. The painting is done AFTER the cabinets are built and finished. This would be done by a professional in your area. Someone who does faux finish or Trompe-l'œil. You might be able to find one through the Chamber of Commerce in your areas or calling art associations on line. I believe the painting on the on above is done by the cabinet company itself. They are noted for their finishes and this particular style. The name of the company is Habersham and they are in South Carolina.

CMR Interiors & Design Consultations Inc. I like the idea of a island that has less depth 3 doors instead of b, cuts off straight across with a banquet at the end and then a table and chairs....do you have room for this?

eagledzines If you decide to put carved legs on either side of the cabinets under the stove, they can be made useful as pullouts, not just decorative elements.

I made the first one, but they can be purchased. Rev-A-Shelf makes the one in the second picture. Probably other companies do as well.

eagledzines You can find faux finishers in your area by clicking on "Find Local Pros" in the black bar above.

wowww The pullouts are brilliant. Thank you so much. Yours is gorgeous and looks more sturdy. I don't like spice racks on the inside of a cabinet door as currently planned. The problem is, I am working with a kitchen company, not directly with the cabinet maker. As you certainly know, even though they are paid handsomely, kitchen companies don't like going out of their way... I am going to try to face them down!!

eagledzines Thank you. There are two Rev-A-Shelf products for the pullout. They look the same. One fits a 3" space and one fits a 6" space. Hope that helps.

wowww The original flat vs. raised panel issue is still nagging me a bit, and I also have a new important question about the molding on the drawers of the island. The island question first: If you look again at the molding in the photo above for the island, please notice how thick it is. I've been planning on doing the INSET doors exactly as per the photos, and I also have been planning to put the molding around the edges of all the drawers. I like the heavy "furniture" feel of this for this island, but I'd like reassurance that the molding on the drawers that way isn't overkill.

wowww Forgot to mention that the side of the island by the table will be bead board, as per the rendering submitted at the beginning of the discussion.

wowww Here is a photo of the drawer suggested for this door design

eagledzines So if I understand correctly, the manufacturer is suggesting this. Drawer on top, door on bottom. (enlarge picture by moving mouse over it) Please excuse the cut up look--I was trying to manipulate it with Windows Paint.

If that is the case, you have a flat panel on the top and a raised panel on the bottom. The moldings appear to be quite different. Are you saying this is the drawer that the manufacturer suggests with that door?

Cost might be an issue, but if the manufacturer is willing to do it, do you think you would prefer to have the drawer look the same as the door (turned sideways) except with a flat panel? so that the moldings would look the same? The 'meat' around the outside of the drawer should be thinner than the door, so there would be enough flat panel on the inside.

This drawer is different than the blue doors at the top. Is the picture of the blue drawers at the top just to show that the cabinet style is 'inset'? or do you actually prefer the way the drawer front looks?

PYRAMID DESIGN GROUP Those are all personal preferences-- so I won't advise here--But one observation ! you have choosen white marble for countertops--looks great in the showroom and in magazines--HOWEVER MARBLE STAINS--IF YOU SPILL RED WINE...THAT IS WHY GRANITE IS A MORE PRACTICAL CHOICE.

eagledzines I haven't tried it on marble but white wine takes the red stain out of carpet. It would be interesting to try this on a piece of marble.

wowww Sorry this is confusing. Please let me start all over again. Please imagine a drawer above the door in the island. The door is the same as the photo I submitted again here. The molding on this door is fairly heavy. Do you think its ok to put the molding on the edges, or the perimeter of the drawers? Thanks so much, in advance, for your opinion.

wowww Sorry again. I just re-read your comments and you said the molding on the door does work on the drawer, but it should be "scaled down" a bit. Here's the problem: I'm not working with the actual cabinet maker (unfortunately! if I were able to start all over again with what I know now, I would be!). I am working with a kitchen company that makes quality cabinets (actually the line is called "Quality"... similar to a line like "Rutt"). They make some custom adjustments but not every adjustment. The door they normally sell with this particular door style is the one I submitted two posts ago. I asked if they could put the same molding around the perimeter of the drawer that is on the door and they will. I doubt they will be scaling it down though. That's why I'm asking if you think it will be too big.

wowww I just saw a typo: I meant the drawer they normally sell with the door style...

wowww And now I think I understand what you are saying and the image you made with "paint". You are suggesting to put the molding toward the center, leaving enough room in the center for the raised panel. I guess the molding on the drawer doesn't have to line up with the molding on the door exactly. So you don't mean to scale down the molding, but just move it in away from the edges.

eagledzines Actually, I'm just trying to make sure I understand correctly. You were using the blue top drawers just to show that the drawers would be on the inside the cabinet, not on top of it.

Here is a diagram showing what I see in my mind when you speak of molding on the drawer.

wowww the door model is Venice BI. The perimeter door model is Newbury FO. I can't thank you enough for your help. They will put the molding on the perimeter of the door of the Venice even though they don't show it that way.

wowww Sorry to make things difficult by my lack of true understanding of cabinets. I showed the blue drawers above as examples I'd like to consider. I didn't understand that one molding was on top and one was "part of the door". However, the drawer style I like a lot is the one with molding on top as per your explanation. My concern is that the venice molding is very heavy to be on top around the edges, but I think I will go with it anyway. I'd love your opinion.

wowww My understanding is they can make the drawers in the "door style" or put the molding "on top". I hope that makes sense.

eagledzines The first picture is a drawer where the molding was put on top. It is applied like a border around a flat drawer front. It is the same as the TOP drawer in the blue picture you posted.

The other two drawers are just regular drawers except the same piece of molding was put on on the top of the drawer is now the inside of a part of a drawer.They are like the SECOND and THIRD drawers in the blue picture you posted on top. The second picture shows you how they did this.

Do I understand correctly that the look you want is like the second and third drawer down on the blue picture you posted? So that it looks thicker around the edge of the drawer?

wowww Tech problems also!!! The drawer in your photo above and the top drawer in the photo of blue drawers that I sent is the look I hoped would look ok even though the Venice molding is rather thick. Do you think it would work? Just as a reminder: the doors and drawers in the island are inset (with a beaded edge). Thank you so much, again, for your patience and great ideas even though I am having trouble conveying the information clearly.

eagledzines If this is the drawer that goes with the door that you are purchasing, I would NOT put another piece of molding around the edge. It would look very busy.

If you wanted it to look thicker around the edge like in the blue picture you posted, I would suggest that you:

1). Ask them if they can make a 10" door in the style you have chosen. If they can do that, then you should be able to get a 10" drawer that looks just like the door with either a raised or flat panel.

2) The top drawer is too small to do that. Just as in the blue picture you have posted. If you look close you will see that it is different. That's because it's too small to do what they did on the bottom two drawers. You can get a 'flat panel' drawer front, just like the top drawer in the blue picture--where molding was applied around the outside (and if they do that, it should look like the same molding they used on the doors you have picked).

If they can't do those things, I would stick with what they have recommended to go together.

Hope that helps.

eagledzines Yes, I think the Venice molding would work as far as looks go. It would look GREAT! except-the Venice molding is not flat on the bottom so unless they have a molding like the Venice that is flat on the bottom they won't be able to do it--never hurts to ask!!

As far as the cabinets being inset in design, they would have to hold back the drawer front a little bit from the front of the cabinets if the molding was too deep so that the molding was what was flat or nearly flat against the edge of the cabinet.

wowww Just to be SURE I'm understanding correctly could. We just talk about the "brown" door I put up that has molding and a raised panel (Venice ). I think you just said in your last comment that the Venice molding would look great on top of the perimeter of the drawer just like the brown drawer in the photo you showed me? They said they can definitely do that. They will also put a raised panel on the drawers big enough for it. Your word of approval? :-)

eagledzines Oops sorry, I was looking at your perimeter doors.
We're making progress though.

On the brown drawers. is this what you would like the bottom two drawers to look like?

eagledzines Is this what you had in mind?
Fabulous. Very unique. I love it! I compliment you for your vision and Quality for offering this style.

The top drawer looks squashed--that is why the trim looks narrower on the top and bottom--but I think this is enough to get the idea.

I would definitely ask for a mock up though to make sure it is exactly what you are looking for and that the trim is handled the way you envision it. The mock up should include the cabinet front and three drawer fronts. It will cost something for the mock up but would definitely be worth it. If you are paying for the mock up, tell them you want to keep it. That way you will have it to compare other purchases with for color and style.

eagledzines To answer your question about the cabinet being inset. Yes, this will work. The outside of the trim should be level (in my opinion) with the front of the cabinets. They may think differently about that and you may like their interpretation (good reason for a mock up). The only drawback with trim on inset drawers is that the drawer box itself will have to set back into the cabinet, making it a tad shorter. I would ask them for full extension slides. If they don't come with the drawer anyway. There is also a full extension slide that has a soft close feature. I believe Accuride makes it.

wowww YAY now we have it!!! You are wonderful for sticking with me given my weakness in terminology! I am so happy, I can't tell you... I really wanted this molding on ALL the drawers in the kitchen, but they seem to work best with inset cabinets.

So now, if we go back to talking about the perimeter doors and drawers again, the drawers are designed like the door fronts: molding "centered" with flat panel. I considered putting the molding on the perimeter of the drawer (like the island drawers) ONLY on the TOP drawers along the perimeter EXCEPT the three drawers under the cooktop. After drawing them both ways (which I kept erasing unfortunately), I thought the drawers looked best all the same, like the door fronts. You're great at mixing styles. What do you think?

eagledzines I'm thrilled! It's a pleasure to work out a challenge and to be of help. When you get the mock-up, it might be a good idea to try some pulls/knobs on them just to make sure you are comfortable with the space. No need to buy them or screw them in. Just take the mock up in the store and hold one up to it (If it's not in a package) Just to get an idea of what it will feel like space-wise. Most are around 1 1/4" - 1 1/2" between the surface of the drawer and the outside of the knob/pull but can vary considerably.

wowww Now I have another idea for the perimeter. I'll draw it and put it up tonight, but if you look at the first rendering I put up, I'm considering putting a raised panel on all drawers except the top row, of course.
So that means the 4 drawers on the left of the sink, the same 4 drawers that will be put on the dishwasher which is to the left of the sink, and the 2 bigger drawers below the cooktop. What do you think? :-)

eagledzines I would be pretty but you would have to ask Quality if they were able to do that. Each drawer style requires a different amount of height in a drawer front to be able to fit the raised panel in it. I love the idea of covering the dishwasher with a cabinet front. I was actually going to suggest that to you.

eagledzines I would use a hand blown antique glass for this kitchen. It is a clear glass but has clear lines in it from being hand rolled and give it a slight clear texture or a modern manufactured glass lookalike.

lc29 Just my 2 cents here, your kitchen doesn't appear to be all that large, beware of using really thick moldings as they will make the the space seem "closer".

eagledzines Along with putting the false drawer fronts on the dishwasher it would also look so nice to put cabinet doors on your refrigerator. That would help offset the detailed molding making the space seem closed in. The more elements you can harmonize, the better. There is another place, along with the hood that a handpainting or faux finish could be used. I'd suggest though that if you did that, to use something that doesn't stand out to the eye but adds to the overall feel. If you decide to go there I have some inspiration pictures for you.

wowww to help unify and offset space issue, covering brushed stainless refrigerator makes sense, though I always resisted this due to expense and... "a kitchen is a kitchen... why pretend its not a refrigerator" but also truth is, brushed stainless is a pain to keep clean. BUT now what do I do with molding on this? The company probably has a standard way of handling this... but your way is probably better :-)

eagledzines Yes, it does cost more and the refrigerator has to be one manufactured to be able to accept the door. Were you going to replace the refrigerator anyway or use one you have?

Quality's way of handling it has probably been designed to fit the product line they have designed and may be a great one. Before deciding though, you'd have to nail down the perimeter design. If you decide to put the cabinet door on one, I would suggest thinking about matching it with the perimeter cabinets. Just a suggestion.

wowww I definitely will match with perimeter cabinets (flat panel) and find out how quality handles this. My guess is they would make adjustments, but I'll check it out next week and get back... :-)

wowww eagledzines (and others!): Here is the NEW color for the perimeter cabinets/drawers. I'm also sending a photo of the new color/cabinet next to the island cabinet door to see if you still think these work together well.

eagledzines Gorgeous!

wowww Thanks! The "new blue" is so elegant I worried that the wood on the island is too "heavy". Now I'm going to take a leap and go for it. Please stay tuned. I have no idea what to do about lighting and I'm not ready to tackle it yet, but will be soon...