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Kitchen Remodel
Southern Patina Interiors
February 27, 2013 in Design Dilemma
Hi - my design dilemma is........
How far across would you take the cabinets without them looking as though they're getting too close to the slider. I suggested to the kitchen people to crop off the last cab, and that's ok. I'm still concerned about the next to last cabinet at an average depth of 22" or so.

How far should that last size full cabinet go before it gets too close to the slider?

Note: the cabs are not going to be the "high/low" configuration as on the drawing.

Your thoughts?
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PRO
Tisdale Home Solutions, LLC
If the cabinets will be adjacent to the non-operable pane of the slider, it shouldn't be a problem coming within a foot or so. If the cabinets are ending at the operable pane of the slider, I would hold back 30" - 36".
February 27, 2013 at 7:10AM   
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PRO
Southern Patina Interiors
The cabs are at the non-operable pane of the slider.
February 27, 2013 at 7:13AM   
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PRO
Southern Patina Interiors
Wow Tisdale - you're in North Carolina - what a coincidence.
Do you think an off white cab with a light stain would be too much cabinetry?
The kitchen is dark as I'm in a townhouse with no interior windows.
February 27, 2013 at 7:15AM   
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PRO
Tisdale Home Solutions, LLC
Great coincidence! ... If it is a dark area with little natural light, would consider light cabinets and flooring if that fits the theme of your home and tastes. Look at off white, distressed or glazed with under cabinet lighting.
February 27, 2013 at 7:28AM   
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michaelscustomhomerepair
You need cabinets all the way to the door wall or it will look goofy. My recommendation is to go floor to ceiling with a shallow pantry cabinet (8 to 12 inches) and that should give you plenty of room to operate the s.g. door. The next to the last base cabinet could have the corner cut on a 45 for ease of door access.
February 27, 2013 at 7:28AM     
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Southern Patina Interiors
Tisdale - I was thinking of an off-white with glaze. My floors are old school natural oak, which are incredibly durable and take a beating. Think this will be a nice compliment to the white cabs. What do you think about counters? Dark or light granite? I've also considered formica for the cost, what do you think of a charcoal color that looks like slate - or do you just HATE formica?
February 27, 2013 at 8:19AM   
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Tisdale Home Solutions, LLC
I just finished a project (labeled Pugh St on my space here). The cabonets are a canvas color with a glaze. Counters are black night. Gives it a really good look. I would definitely go with a granite. Level 1 in my area is runnng between $36 - $42 per sqft. Prep and sink add about $400 to that. I generally like to go dark on the countertop if I am doing light on the cabinet to break it up. That way you can go light again on the backsplash.
February 27, 2013 at 10:05AM   
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Tisdale Home Solutions, LLC
Also, how much room do you have between the wall and the casing for the slider?
February 27, 2013 at 10:07AM     
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cghdesign
there looks to be a bump out in the wall between kitchen and slider. Is that going away? What's in there? I actually like the color cabs and counters you have but that is up to you. You could just add to existing cabinets if you can get the same color/style for less money. I used a black slate look high def laminate in my old house that was nice and at less than $10 per Lineal Foot very affordable. I like the idea of a tall pantry cabinet at the end 30" to 36" wide as someone else suggested.
February 27, 2013 at 10:24AM   
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Jayme H.
Can the last one be angled? Or a shelving type unit, angled be fit in?
February 27, 2013 at 10:26AM     
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Southern Patina Interiors
There's no wall to bump out - that's just the angle of the drawing showing the slider.
My first choice would be a granite or solid surface, but very $$$$. I've seen some formica that looks really great, but feel it's like wearing a beaded gown with cheap sneakers. It just doesn't work.
I've thought of a tall pantry at the end as well, but these type cabs can be expensive.
February 27, 2013 at 1:33PM   
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Southern Patina Interiors
As for the color of the cabinets now - yes I do like them. They were custom built maple. There's no way to match or add to them - hence the remodel.
February 27, 2013 at 1:34PM   
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cghdesign
SPI, I was looking at your second picture of the range towards slider. I thought at first there was a bump out on left. Looking closer, it appears to be about a 14" full height wall the upper cabinets end at. You are correct about the pantry cabinets. Depending on how they are finished on the interior, pull out shelves, spice rack doors, etc can really drive the price up. Framing a drywall pantry costs a lot less but does not look as nice. Stair stepping the cabinets isn't a bad idea but the rendering has the stepped cabinets to high.
February 27, 2013 at 6:42PM   
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PRO
Tisdale Home Solutions, LLC
SPI, I understand that cost is a major factor in your remodel ... may I ask what your budget is? Granite and nice cabinets may be more affordable than you think. I agree with CGHDesign that staggering the height of the wall cabinets gives a really good affect if done right.
February 27, 2013 at 7:00PM   
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Southern Patina Interiors
Tisdale - I'm looking at staying under....waaay under $10,000. The staggered cabinets were my idea initially, when I saw them printed out, it looked too busy, so I'm still on the fence about that.
February 28, 2013 at 5:53AM   
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Tisdale Home Solutions, LLC
not impossible. My project on Pugh St was about $11k for the perimeter cabinets, island, dry bar, master vanity, and a cultured marble top in an upstairs bath. For this remodel I used Brock Cabinets (www.brockcabinets.com). They have an office in Raleigh. I would request a quote on their Lennox cabinet with a glaze (probably not the only reseller of that line in the area). They are probably going to be high on granite since they subcontract it out. If you like that style, I would work it in stages... cabinets and granite. paint the backlash area until you can work tile into the budget. Then replace the appliances if that is part of your plan. something to watch out for.... the hardwoods will need attention in that area. if the hardwoods run under the peninsula, they will probably need some attention (re-poly or most likely refinished for the entire room). If hardwoods aren't under the peninsula, they will need to be spliced in and then refinished. you are also going to need some interior trim work if you are going to stagger the cabinets (if crown moulding is in your plan). Simple plumbing and re-routing of electrical as well. Stage it out.
February 28, 2013 at 2:38PM   
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PRO
Southern Patina Interiors
THS - thanks for your advice. It's such a daunting effort. I'm pretty sure the goods I'm getting are from China - I've seen a sample cab and they're def solid. I know these cabs are out there - how do you feel about them? I'll check out the resources you named.
February 28, 2013 at 2:57PM   
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PRO
Tisdale Home Solutions, LLC
Lenox is Chinese. Plywood box. Solid cabinets.
February 28, 2013 at 3:42PM   
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PRO
Southern Patina Interiors
I looked at the website, impressive selection. My guy doesn't have that many, but enough to build a beautiful kitchen. Tisdale thanks so much for chatting with me. It's hard to do this on a budget - my guy will do the removal, install etc., for one price - hard to beat. There's no showroom, etc., so no overhead, etc. I think it's a good deal for the price.
February 28, 2013 at 3:46PM   
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