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Norm Walters Construction Inc. The tile normally stops right at the point where the countertop profile starts. It will run past the wall cabinet, but that is normal.

kjh72 Sorry about the drawing i didnt have a picture! lol I have many customers with this dilemma. We will usually use a pencil trim that matches the tile or for a more sleek modern look use a metal quarter round. Go to Schluter.com and look at their Rondec trim pieces. Hope this helps!

sam0705 Hi - I like the suggestions/drawing above. We had a similar issue in a galley kitchen with no natural end points on one side, and we also went to the end of the counter. My particular tile looked pretty finished on the sides especially once it was sealed so I did not end up using a finishing piece. On the left side near the door - I also had this issue and posted about it - in my case, I was less than an inch away from a molding around the door so I tiled all the way to the molding even though it overhanged (hung?) the cabinet a tiny bit. In your case, since it's an open sheetrocked area, my thought is that you would do it the same way you are doing it on the right side otherwise it might look strange.

bergenstein This is when I usually loose it with the contractor. The mishmash of electrical, upper cabinets and counters has no relationship. To give it continuity see if you can get an electrician to move the left hand box over to the switch. Then run a piece of 4" plain molding down the side of the upper cabinets from the ceiling to meet up with the counter tops, ideally right to the outer edge of the counter top serface and not the O J trim. This will give you a line to take the back splash to. I would tile the entire area under the upper cabinets. Marjorie

Lux Construction I might considering checking to see how complicated it would be to move your outlets in some on both pics. The tile work will look cleaner if the boxes aren't quite as tight to the end of the run, though this might be quite costly depending on how the romex runs at the moment.

Best of luck!

Norm Walters Construction Inc. @bergenstein, hopefully you don't loose it alot, that would be scary 8-)..
I like the idea of the 4" trim, although wouldn't it have match the cabinets? And if they are stock cabinets wouldn't if have to come from a 6" filler cut down to 4" leaving an unfinished side? I guess you would also have to order some paint from the cabinet manufacturer. Unless of course that is a simple white, In which case your idea would pertain to white cabinets only?

Ironwood Builders Sounds like our thread poster, freedomgirl,has done a cosmetic remodel of an existing space, perhaps performing as her own general contractor. Moving existing outlets would require more than a cosmetic renovation. In other circumstances, as the general contractor, I would have pointed out to the designer that the layout of the upper cabinets in relation to the lower cabinets is totally fubar and that there would be an issue as to where the backsplash would end. Further, I would inform the designer that code requires outlets every 3' at kitchen work surfaces and the layout of these is crucial, involving the homeowner in the discussion. In the event that the upper cabinets absolutely cannot match the lower cabinet line so that the backsplash can end at the appropriate place, I would require my tile setter to provide bullnose tile for that area. I never lose it. It doesn't do anybody any good and usually begins a a cycle of ill will and bad feelings that can ruin a project.

bergenstein It's OK, my way of letting someone know there is something going wrong on the job is to get very quiet.
My fellow workers are so competent it seldom happens. Marjorie

freedomgirl Thanks folks! Yes it is a "facelift" and yes I am the general contractor and yes, I am pretty bad at it, : ). However, the good news is, the far right box is a land line phone jack. I don't need a phone in my kitchen...... I have another jack nearby......so we're going to cap it! I hated the way that phone looked any way! Done. Kjh72 nice! I can live with that look, thanks for making the visual for me. Marjorie, I can have the four inch moulding matched to the custom lacquer my professional refinisher used on the cabinet. Both are great ideas. The cabinets do not go all the way to the ceiling so i think i will order some quarter round and finish it as sketched above. I really appreciate it! You guys are great! Btw, the other side is just leaning there. Its not installed yet.here's a more revealing shot of the problem area.

JWinteriors We use a pencil moulding on all exposed areas. The above information is correct, tile should go to the end of counter, just before the edge tapers down. We also take the tile several inches above the bottom of the cabinet as seen in the picture.

buckeyebrad Purchase a wider cabinet, you've got the room for it...it will solve your sight line problem and give you additional cabinet space.

freedomgirl JWinteriors - thanks a bunch! I read your suggestion about taking the tile above the bottom of the cabinet right before we finished up. We added those inches and I think it made a big difference. Looks great.

calikym Remember where you came from (how much you didn't like your kitchen cabinets before) and things like this won't drive you crazy. Would it have been better to have the cabinets aligned, yes, but its not a disaster. Just use a trim piece or special edged tiles when you do you backsplash. Porcelanosa's got one.