I need advice to update my generic oak kitchen!
We are about to begin updating our kitchen, but at this point, I'm not confident with my ideas for the space. We are not gutting the room, and the cabinets will remain (very budget conscious), so what I need help with is deciding on countertops, flooring, and backsplash to complement the cabinets......Thinking of doing a darker-toned counter, with clean subway tile backsplash, but again, not very confident with my ideas or colour co-ordinating. I'd like the update to make the cabinets, not so HONEY-OAK!! I'm wondering if I go with a very dark wall, it will dull down the impact of the cabinets. I'm also, not a fan of painting the cabinets, so this is why I'm trying to work with them in their current state. Please help make this generic kitchen have a little personality! Thanks :)
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If this L is the built in part of the kitchen, can you take photos and post of the other two walls / openings to other areas so we see how it flows? Do you prefer a kitchen table in your space or do I see rightly that you probably have room for a new island/butcher block work suface? What functions do you need more of in your space?
How big an update will you do? I would prioritize in the budget: a new undermount sink, a superduper new kitchen faucet with the sprayer handle that pulls out, undercounter led lighting, backsplash tile, countertops, and possibly new flooring. Have you looked at the range of countertop options vis a vis your budget? Do you have preferences there or will the budget dictate this?
With the cabinet style and the fairly new white appliances, I'm inclined to steer you towards a traditional and cheerful palette, that layers in a fresh green since that is a neutral that can work with almost any color scheme you have started. Green is one color that will shift the whole space, so the honey oak is not the only "warm" tone in the room. What shade of green depends on many things - the white appliances are going to play best with a fresh shade that tends to the citrus but isn't too yellow. http://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/color/find-and-explore-colors/paint-colors-by-family/SW6422-shagreen/ is the best of SW for your space I think. That is just the wall color for your soffits and around the trim at your upper window. Finding the right countertop and backsplash tile depends on answering the questions above.
Your hardware being dark tends to make me feel that dark appliances would serve you better if you were changing them to black. However, changing hardware is less expensive! Shifting these to silver tones would echo the light appliances and be an easy fresh thing that would start to pull these elements closer together.
There are refinishing kits now that help you keep the stained look but adjust the stain if you are tired of the honey oak tones.They do seem to echo the wood floor in the adjacent space and they seem to be warm and of good quality. Check out the rustoleum cabinet transformations website. I've not used them but many have successfully.
@Andrea Prasch. Your resulting kitchen is certainly an inspiration to anyone now stuck with oak cabinets (c'est moi) but I have to ask whether it was a DIY project or did you have professionals do the painting. @bonnemarchchic. Your green cabinets look fabulous. But I would not stop with the bottoms only. Go ahead and do the tops and have a unified look.@Lauren Puschaver. Your painted cabs and new hardware also look fabulous. When I see updates like this I wonder why people don't also do Euro-style hinges when they have a chance. Is it just a case of a big headache to pull off or do you like the look of the hinges?
Unless you want to take all the walls down between all these rooms, widening the space between the kitchen and dining may reduce the functionality of your space instead of adding given the dimensions, That isn't the only consideration - would you personally like the kitchen to be more integrated into the other spaces on a daily basis / when you entertain? If so, we need to direct traffic carefully. It may make sense to shift it to the traffic zone and widen it slightly to 36" - 42" recommended between elements.
How wide is the distance on the common wall with the dining room from the face of the cabinets on the window wall to doorway, and then to the opposite wall? Is the space about 11' wall to wall? They probably centered it on the room, but if you place it next to the cabinet end of the space and open it to 48" then you would have 4' 6" left for a peninsula at the front end of the dining room / current bar table corner. If you take off area to walk around, then you've got only 30' for an island. A peninsula off the clock wall makes more sense, but is harder to make multi functional. It is out of the work triangle, so the area makes more sense for pantry / full height wall cabinets. Which don't provide seating for eating -
More questions arise - If you want to do an island element, do you see it for extra counter surface for cooking prep? For eating bar? both? How do you use the bar table you have now?
What will go back in here well are colored cabinets - mid-tone muted aqua, black, a dark wood, even a classic green - but of these, the green is my last pick since I think that is going to be your best wall color.
Since your guy is capable, you could also repurpose your bar table with a larger round remnant quartz top and some locking casters to be multipurpose. That would work well with or without widening the opening and with the ability to roll to the middle of your space at 36" diameter, could be the perfect compliment to what you have now, especially if we added full height pantry storage in the corner it came from. Knowing the right shape for the top would depend on other elements - an oval might work best - it's just the start of an idea to get the most for your $.
I think your oak is good looking, and given the rest of your home, should keep it and do the other elements to get the best result.
Many thanks!
:) Linda
We do entertain small groups from time to time, and I find that we begin in the kitchen and want to stay in there, eating and chatting, but are closed off to the dining and living rooms. It feels like we have to end one party, and migrate to the living room to begin another.
I'm going to look into cork flooring, as I haven't considered it until this point.
If I had $20 000 burning a hole in my pocket, I'd gut the whole kitchen and start over, but we don't, so picking a few important elements in the kitchen to upgrade will go a long way, especially when we sell sometime in the next 5ish years (military family). So presentation for resale is also important to us, and knowing what the masses want to see, like an open concept living space, is important to us.
As far you countertop, Wilsonart makes a color called Antique Topaz (4863K-07) or use granite.
#2) Change all appliances to stainelss steel. Paint cabinets white. Decorative ceramic cabinet pulls. Undermount sink and a faucet w/ a pull-out sprayer. Same countertop choices.
If I can help you any more, feel free to emal me- msherrer@villagedesigngroup.com.
Just my two cents.
So you've gotten some wonderful advice on how to update your generic oak cabinets from people who have been there and done it. It seems everyone who posts here hates their oak cabinets (I hate mine but I can't do a thing about it except dream). You are still holding back. Time for thoughtful decision making is good. Paralysis is not. You say you will probably be selling in "five-ish" years or so. I would hate to see you live in a kitchen that makes your time in it practically a drudgery and then five years from NOW spend the money to get the kitchen you could have had and been enjoying just to get it ready for the market and the new owner, who will probably change out everything because he wants to personalize it. If you can why don't you post a floor plan so others can comment on the idea of the wall coming down and the island going in. Good luck to you. madeline
Painting the cabinets keeps coming up, and we have been so against going down that road. I've been into houses with cabinets painted so poorly, this process just scares me. I'll say it, the jobs I've seen look outright junky, I'd rather stay with the oak cab than have badly painted cabinets. I need to see cabinets painted properly, not just in photos on houzz to be convinced to go down this road. A stop at the paint shop might be in order.
Yes, a peninsula with the doorway moved over to the face of the cabinets - in front of dishwasher you want to leave 42" and if you have 9' you will want to stop with a 5'6" long peninsula against the kitchen/dining room wall. Use the existing kitchen wall but lower it to sub counter height. If you will possibly be moving in 5, then add value with this and add storage. I'd 12" deep "upper" cabinets to this side of the wall with their own plinth and baseboard to raise them up. You can buy the home depot oak wood standard cabinets with the simplest doors close to yours and paint the outside black / distress the corners and poly the whole thing. Black will make your existing oak seem richer, and is neutral so will work for all buyers. You can take the green paint all the way through your dining room. Consider the butcherblock countertops IKEA sells to use here - they are a great value, and then if you select an espresso formica for your oak it will all work together well.
Put in some corbels, and about 18" overhang will create a big 5' 6" wide peninsula, open you to the dining room and create three barstool places. You could instead build in tall pantry cabinets on the opposite wall in black, and just open the wall to stools on both sides. You would still have 5' on the dining room side and even more storage. Start 1' on the dining room side of the kitchen hall doorway and place two side by side full height pantry cabinets (6' wide) on the wall there in a dark finished wood from the prefab choices. Then, take down the wall to bar height instead of counter height and put the butcherblock from the end of the last cabinet across the pony wall - you'll have seating on both sides, and one dead corner you can put a trash can in under the wood counter.