First things first. Where will you have cuts? Make sure they won't be too small. Is the room square? If not, choose the most prominent wall and lay the tile parallel to it.

Is there a pattern to the tile? Think about where the pattern will fall and whether you want to center any fixtures or accessories on a certain part of the pattern.

Anyplace where tile ends on a wall or on an outside corner is where you'll need to deal with a transition. Stone tile can be polished for a finished edge. Many tiles have matching bullnose pieces. Figuring out how you will handle these transitions is part of the planning process, because you will need to order these pieces with your tile.

For a modern look, use Schluter's Jolly trim to cap the edge of the tile. Coordinate with the other metals in the room and make sure to compare the thickness of the tile to the trim so that it fully covers the edge without hanging over.

The L-shaped Jolly trim has a perforated flange that gets set in the thinset before laying the tile — no fasteners are necessary.

Tile is heavy. Make sure your floor joists can handle the weight and put down ¾-inch plywood with ½-inch cement board embedded in thinset on top.

If the floor is in a spot prone to movement (for instance, where an addition meets the original house) consider installing a crack isolation membrane as well.

The installation will look only as good as the surface below. Check that your walls and floors are flat with a long straight-edge and use a screed to get the thinset into low spots. Keep in mind that a floor doesn't necessarily need to be level if the transitions to adjoining rooms make this difficult, but it does need to be flat.

Your floor does need to be level if you are going to use a baseboard-style trim piece. Note the base in this picture: Unlike most field tile, which can be cut to accommodate an uneven floor, base trim can't be cut without losing its profile.

Glass tile expands and contracts at a higher rate than other tiles, and is more prone to stress fractures. For this reason, small glass tiles can be installed in many applications, but large-format glass tile should be installed only in areas that have been prepared to avoid movement and won't be subject to large temperature swings.

Wait until the thinset has cured before you grout — it usually takes about a day. Follow the manufacturer's instructions and don't clean the tile with anything but water until the grout has fully cured.

If the grout is a light color, consider sealing it to make it easier to clean. For dark colors, this is generally not necessary. Remember, even sealed grout will allow some water to pass through — this is why shower pans have liners. This also means that tile needs to be set on cement board, not drywall, anyplace where it will get wet.

Anyplace where tile meets a surface that may move — counters and tubs are good examples — you'll need to seal the joints with a flexible sealant instead of grout. For tubs, 100% silicone is best. For counters, get a caulk that is color matched to your grout, available from your tile dealer.

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