lyvia When you insulate with drapes, beware condensation that can cause mold. Avoid it by either leaving no airspace between the insulation and the glass, so that there is no moist air to leave droplets on cold glass, or by leaving enough airspace (a few inches) for the moisture to dry without mingling with the warm air of the room. Or live in a dry house in a dry climate ... I wish.

There's also heat shrink window film, applied with a hair dryer - some of this stuff is surprisingly clear. Try it with a little bit of rice on the sill to absorb moisture, and hang it on a dry day.

zidog lyvia, I was going to add the same advice! In addition to shrink window film, there is also a much thicker, but still clear, stretch plastic that works great. I've obtained it from The Community Energy Project in Portland, OR. I haven't seen it at any hardware stores however. The great thing about it is that it's reusable year after year, unlike the shrink wrap. I'd also add that if you don't have a mud room in your main entry, you can try creating a vestibule with tracks and thick curtains. I did this in a house where there were lots of people always coming and going and we would lose massive amounts of heat every time anyone opened the door. It helped a ton!

kellystevens Old wood windows can last for centuries if properly maintained. Many of the new dual pane windows are only guaranteed for 15-20 years. Something to consider when deciding if you should replace your old windows. My house has a lot of large, original, single pane windows. The cost to replace them with energy efficient dual pane windows would be well over $50k, and those dual pane seals could leak after 15 years. With these facts in mind, I can't believe how often people suggest that I need to replace the windows with new. No thanks!

I opted to get a high efficiency furnace. I estimate that I spend an extra $400/year on my gas bill to heat my house, but at that rate, it would be over 100 years before I recouped the cost of new windows. And they wouldn't be the original architecture, which I value.

ladygoat The door curtain idea also works well with interior doorways that don't have doors, such as a hallway that leads from one part of the house to another. It's especially helpful if you are heating just one part of a house, or if your whole home furnace doesn't heat all rooms equally.

Beth Believe it or not went invested in cream coloured California king size single bed quilts and use them as drapes and people are always asking us where did we get such beautiful drapes? With lovely tie backs they do look awesome.

In summer they keep the heat out and in winter they keep the heat in. And they go in the wash and are line dried every six months at least so they stay looking fresh.

cfmzhouse @lyvia - great advice. Every winter we have terrible trouble with condensation on our windows, which are covered with cedar blinds that provide little to no insulation. Our double pane windows perform much better than the single panes, but does anyone have any more low-cost suggestions for cutting down the condensation?

cvsharkey The drape idea is the easiet, least costly and most decorative one on the list. I have heavy denim drapes on all four exterior doors & on the four large windows facing west--whih is the direction our storms come in from. In the winter they keep out drafts and in the summer the window drapes help to keep the large room cool from the afternoon sun. And being denim I can toss them in the washer & dryer. No dry cleaner bills.

Lynne Lightowler_Buck With drafty windows, or cold glass lacking sufficient insulating capacity, the best way to stop the air current flow over the window back into the room is to use cornices . . . they really block that air current . . . it has no where to go. My living room windows have it all: energy film, draw panels with an extra insulating panel directly on the glass and a cornice. Sometimes we even do that plastic over the whole window, which does an amazing job too . . . even with the sticky double side tape.

Christine Laplante Apply a plastic film that reduces window condensation. This is a see-through film that helps to block humid indoor air from direct contact with the cold window surface. The film also helps to insulate and keep heat inside. This special film can be purchased at home improvement stores.

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Apply a product such as Rain-X to control condensation on windows. Rain-X is a liquid product typically used to stop condensation on car windows and mirrors. Simply wipe on and re-apply as needed.



Read more: Condensation Problems on Windows | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_7163822_condensation-problems-windows.html#ixzz2DWkETtfq

Eco-Strip KellyStevens is right on about the long-term durability of her old windows. As a DIYer she can strip the old paint and putty, remove and reseat the glass with new glazing, and weatherstrip every one of her old windows for less than the cost of those new ones. The Speedheater Infrared Paint Remover (http://www.eco-strip.com) is low heat, doesn't create toxic lead fumes heating the old, lead-based paint and generates minimal dust during easy stripping of the heated, soft paint. High heat guns do. Its evenly-distributed, radiant heat rays also soften rock-hard putty without breaking the glass panes. You can restore your old windows to the same or better energy efficiency by also weatherstripping them and adding storm windows which won't detract from the original beauty of these historic windows. Or you can hire a window restorationists to do the work on your windows for you.

CellularWindowShades.com Symphony Shades are another way to insulate windows without changing them out. Here in Vermont we have some strict preservation laws and finding compliant replacement windows can be expensive and time consuming.
1. To prevent condensation in the winter, using our top down feature on the top down bottom up shades, allows you to cover the cold bottom of the window, but lowers the dew point behind the shade. http://cellularwindowshades.com/duofold_shades.html
2. Lots of Energy Saving and R-Value Details: http://cellularwindowshades.com/rvalue.html
3. These shades are very similar to Hunter Douglas Duette, with a fraction of the cost, a great online option for DIYers or professional remodelers.
4. Available with sidetracks for added draft control (see figures below): http://cellularwindowshades.com/energy_saving_side_track.html
5. Blocks UV rays to save your antiques, artwork and furnishings

westriverdesign Check out this amazing product with an estimated R-10 insulating value, and many possibilities. I like the window screen idea.
http://solarcomfort.ca/

suzanne803 I live in an 1869 brick house. The windows were made using the sand from the river five blocks away. In the early 1990's I had the windows restored. The double hung windows were removed, all paint was removed and the glass was removed from the frames. The frames were finished with tung oil, the old fragile glass was put back in and the outside of the windows were repainted. Before reinstalling the windows, the weights were removed and the space was filled with insulation. The windows were then placed on a spring loaded track and then installed. The first winter there was a considerable difference in the heat bill, as all the drafts were eliminated, yet I still had my wonderful windows with all the bubbles and other imperfections in the glass. Another plus, was the fact that my double hung windows easily moved up and down, both the upper and lower windows. Due to the large size of the windows, I have found whenever the top window starts to slide down, due to it's weight, that the wood is drying out and it is time to apply more tung oil to the interior window frame. Another advantage of the tung oil, is the exterior painted side has not required another paint job. I should add that I do have metal storm windows and interior wood shutters which also help insulate.

frenchdecor I don't have gaps in my windows (no noticeable draft) and never considered adding draperies as insulation because they only break cold air, but can't stop gas. I thought it's a bit of fresh air coming in, no harm to my health only benefit. My only concern were "crying" windows. Am I wrong?

greenarte I built some interior wood storm windows using this instructional http://www.arttec.net/Thermal-Windows/index.html This can be a good way to deal with older windows. They're inexpensive, relatively easy to make (did it by myself) and pretty decent looking too. I stuffed one in the ceiling opening of a skylight that has no attic insulation--working great. Now I'm helping my daughter build some for her 100 year old craftsman home!

Eco-Strip greenarte: Those homemade storm windows were exactly what I was talking about. Thanks for the link to the great HOWTO.

hollywoodland Great advice! I live in a 1937 house with original windows--and lots of them. Although the climate is mild, the house is uninsulated (except for the attic, which I did after moving in) and gets cold in the winter. When I moved in, most of the windows either didn't open or had gaps when closed, so I had them removed and repaired. I use Hunter Douglas Applause shades (which also are great in the summer for filtering the strong Los Angeles sunlight) throughout the house, except in the bedrooms, which have black-out pull-down shades. The one non-dormer window in my bedroom has curtains as well--linen in summer and velvet in winter. While the house will never be as energy-efficient as one with wall insulation and double-pane glass, it is much improved. New furnaces and a tankless hot water heater have helped to reduce my bills also.

Deborah Hall When we moved in to our 1927 Tudor (over thirty years ago) all the windows had aluminum triple tracks. Over the years my husband has built wood frame storm windows for every window in the house. They insulate so much better and not just against cold but also against noise.

sgmercer Sure am identifying with the problem of condensation but for us it builds up behind the cellular blinds and runs down the windows to pool on the sills. The paint is peeling as I didn't catch the problem quickly enough.

I now leave the blinds up about 3 inches during the day when the furnace comes on most often so the condensation will evaporate and closed at night for warmth. Turning down the night time furnace temp also helped as does trying to keep the humidity level low but I'll be repainting the window sills in the Spring.

CellularWindowShades.com Leaving cellular shades up during the day is a solution, but having the top down bottom up feature will lower the dew point behind the shade at night. I do not have condensation on the windows that have shades with that feature. That way you don't have the problem of moisture and you can leave the shades on the sill if you want the bottom of the windows covered during the day.

moxieinvt These are great comments and I will be using many of them with my dream 1880 farm house. I was going to replace the windows but these ideas will help me not have to do that. Much of the glass is original. I can add this; the cold air from the second floor used to come down the stairs and hit me on the neck while I sat on the couch. I used a cloth shower curtain, that I sewed some extra contrasting material to the bottom of to make it longer, and I used a shower curtain rod to hang it at the top of the stairs. I used the kind of rod that tightens as you twist it which makes it easy to put up in the fall and take down in spring without marking the walls, and I get it as close to the ceiling as I can. The curtain pools slightly on the floor at the top of the stairs and it keeps the cooler air from traveling down the staircase and keeps the warmer air in the living room. I spent 40 dollars. Thanks again for the great ideas.

Tonya Kapalski I wonder if the cellular shades are cat friendly? They look like a paper product. One of my cats used to climb the curtains. He's pretty much grown out of this but don't want to risk loosing the money on those shades. Right now I leave the bottom of my blinds up so that he can get up and look out the window, which I think would defeat the purpose of these. I can't use the window film because he ripped it when I tried. My house is super drafty.

CellularWindowShades.com I've had the cat question a lot lately and I can relate. I too have cats and one used to climb drapes and eats line off fishing rods. I keep the shade strings either behind my decorative drapes or up out of the way with cord cleats or velcro. That helps not to attract their attention by things dangling. If you wanted to test the fabric, I can certainly send you a larger piece and you can attach it to the window to see. The fabrics are non-bonded polyester and will not shred. We have samples at the following link if you wanted to check them out! http://cellularwindowshades.com/samples.html I will say that even though my cats sleep up against my shades, they do not gather fur like some window treatments do!

halleycomet For the real problem windows--think the dreadful "Student Apartment" type where you cannot do much to the frames etc--the Olde Tyme way was to take some rags and as soon as it got to freezing temps wet the rags and work them into the cracks and let freeze in there. They will then form an air tight seal. IF it warms and they thaw you can just replace as soon as it chills down. I used this in our old farmhouse. Another way to do this (but I find it doesn't seal quite as well but it depends on your window) is to use the ROPE CAULK which is like putty and can be shaped and formed and pressed into those annoying "spots" where the sash has gaps that are not big enough for regular insulation or the spray in sealer.

I have even used--way back!!!---dryer lint packed (basically felted) into a long side of door crack that was too skinny for the crack seal;--it just foamed so much we couldn't open the door and had to chisel it out!!!---and then I covered with the ROPE CAULK until we could fix it properly. Worked fine!

We have "window quilts" on our large slider and our single pane basement windows that are some odd size not able to be replaced ---these are just a quilted piece of fabric with a plastic backing and held on with Velcro on the frame and the quilt. For the windows we don't use down there I have cut rigid foam insulation board and press fitted it in the opening and this sits behind the quilts all year.

The clear plastic film that you put up in the Fall and take down and tighten with the hairdryer works surprisingly well!

cfb1 I cut 1/4 in insulating foam panels to size (to cover the bottom half of the windows) and covered them with coordinating contact paper. Because they were cut to size, friction is enough to keep them in place.

judithesl I've replaced half of the windows in my 1960 bungalow on the central California coast with double-pane but the single-pane bedroom where bf, I and the dog sleep has a lot of condensation inside in the colder months. As does the single pane window in the dining room, despite a new furnace installed last year. I've been told that I can't replace the bedrooms' single pane with double unless I have the window lowered four inches for better emergency access.

Btw, a house that I owned in Massachusetts some years back had to have all of the double-hung window frames removed, stripped and repainted because they were found to have lead and because my younger child was under 6.

Eco-Strip Judithes, Good to hear you did safe thing of completely stripping lead-based paint off. Many don't know that most pre-1978 paint had lead in it. The older the home, the higher the probability. The toxic lead paint dust is generated whenever those old windows or doors have friction as they are moved. Remodeling is the largest source of lead dust. Tiny dust can cause lead poisoning. For kids and developing organs..irreversible, lifelong nervous system and brain problems

judithesl Thanks. Eco-Strip. Massachusetts law has a bit of a Catch-22. If you have a home inspected for lead paint and you buy it and you have a child under 6, you have to deal with the lead paint. If you don't have it inspected pre-purchase, you can later find out when you go to sell that you have a home that needs tens of thousands of dollars in lead paint remediation.

joewinkie I made 61 wooden storm windows out of clear redwood and they really help !

klbohach I need to weatherstrip and caulk my windows but my question is I can't do it and I have tried so who do you hire to do this for you? I live in Dallas, Texas and seems like I can't find anyone that does this. Handymen don't seem to do it anymore so who do I go with?

At Your Service Custom Window Treatments Just to add to using draperies for insulation - they also can protect your home/furnishings in the summer time from the heat and sun damage. One BIG tip - make sure they have a high quality lining - this protects the fabric from damage also and adds another layer of insulation.
Jeanne McDermott

Beth klbohach You wrote that you need to weatherstrip and caulk your windows but can't do it and have tried so who does a person hire to do this?

Around here handymen/women do do this type work, and window installers often can recommend someone. A friend found the folks she hired twice a year to clean her windows outside, also do weatherstripping.

Yash Srivastava all the curtains designs shown here are really very very beautiful and they make our place a very very comfortable zone...
Hom Theatre Curtains

nanharvill My mom has over the years made insulated shades for her windows, and she's made several for my old house. She buys the wooden roller mechanism and attaches white quilted fabric to it with short staples. The roller shade bracket must be attached to a small block at the top of the window frame to allow several extra inches for the thickness of the roll when it's rolled all the way up. These work very well to prevent heat loss from original single-pane windows.

dolceardor Living in an old farmhouse, the drafts always find their way in. I bought cheap wool blankets and lined my curtains with them. Plus, wool is naturally fire resistant!