Pillow Talk: Learn the Lingo of Cushions
Don't get boxed in between just square and round — get to know the wider world of cushion options for padding for your pad
I'm a Houzz Contributor, interior decorator (http://www.elementsofstyle.com.au) and associate member of the Design Institute of Australia, living and working in Melbourne, Australia. Our homes reflect how we see ourselves, so I strive to make each of my client's spaces balanced and harmonious for them.
I'm a Houzz Contributor, interior decorator (http://www.elementsofstyle.com.au)... More »
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Cushions and pillows in any space introduce color, texture and form — all vital design elements when you're finessing a room. These days we are bombarded with all kinds of styles and shapes of cushions, and here you'll learn the ins and outs of this surprisingly complex piece of decor. Then you can impress your cushion maker with your knowledge of terms such as "bobble fringe," "knife edge" and "Turkish corner."
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The word "cushion" was used in writings as far back as the Middle Ages. Made of sackcloth or leather, filled with hair or wool and often embroidered, these large items were more like the floor pillows of today.
In the U.S., the terms "pillow" and "cushion" can be interchangeable. In many other Western countries, a pillow is usually larger and for sleeping, while a cushion is used for lounging.
Most standard cushions on the market are 17 by 17 inches square. This is because a standard roll of fabric is 54 inches wide. Allowing for seams, three 18-inch pieces of fabric can be cut, avoiding wastage. Custom-designed cushions may cost a little more, but they open up a world of possibilities.
In the U.S., the terms "pillow" and "cushion" can be interchangeable. In many other Western countries, a pillow is usually larger and for sleeping, while a cushion is used for lounging.
Most standard cushions on the market are 17 by 17 inches square. This is because a standard roll of fabric is 54 inches wide. Allowing for seams, three 18-inch pieces of fabric can be cut, avoiding wastage. Custom-designed cushions may cost a little more, but they open up a world of possibilities.
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The knife-edge cushion is the simplest and most popular of all the cushions. It has just two pieces of fabric and four side seams that taper into sharp corners. Why not add a border in another color to an otherwise monochromatic cushion, as shown here?
If you want a zipper, get one that matches the fabric color. You can also ask for an envelope-back cover — as the name suggests, the back fabric is overlapped to create the closure.
The insert in a knife-edge cushion tends to look fuller in the middle and thinner on the edges. Use a feather-down blend, which will hold its shape and doesn't need as much fluffing as a 100 percent down insert.
If you want a zipper, get one that matches the fabric color. You can also ask for an envelope-back cover — as the name suggests, the back fabric is overlapped to create the closure.
The insert in a knife-edge cushion tends to look fuller in the middle and thinner on the edges. Use a feather-down blend, which will hold its shape and doesn't need as much fluffing as a 100 percent down insert.
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The box cushion has a top, a bottom and four sides. The sides are called the boxing, and can be from 1 inch to 10 or more inches deep, depending on the overall size and use of the cushion. This banquette has box cushions for both the seating and on top of it. Keep in mind that the seat cushion will flatten in half when you sit on it, so be generous with your measurements.
Piping, also called welting, can add structure. This can be either in the same fabric, known as self-piping, or in a contrasting color. If you have other cushions in the room, link that color to your piping.
The insert should be firm and enhance the structure of the cushion. Synthetic inserts, such as hypoallergenic polyester, are a smart choice for cushions that will suffer from wear and tear. Just as comfortable as feather-down inserts, they're also great substitutes if you're allergic to feathers.
Piping, also called welting, can add structure. This can be either in the same fabric, known as self-piping, or in a contrasting color. If you have other cushions in the room, link that color to your piping.
The insert should be firm and enhance the structure of the cushion. Synthetic inserts, such as hypoallergenic polyester, are a smart choice for cushions that will suffer from wear and tear. Just as comfortable as feather-down inserts, they're also great substitutes if you're allergic to feathers.
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by Tewes Design
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| The embellished cushion allows you to be creative. A room takes on a distinct personality when you think hard about your cushion design. Embellishments are many and varied. Bobble fringes with pom-poms look playful. Ruched or cut fringes look soft and feminine. Braided and flanged cords in contrasting colors add elegance. All cushion makers carry an array of trims and give great advice. Another tip when buying the insert: Make sure it is encased in a tightly woven fabric, like cotton. This will stop the feathers from popping through. The insert also needs to fill the corners of the cover. If you like the plump look, get an insert that's the same size as the cover — if not, get one an inch or two smaller. |
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The Turkish-corner cushion, in my opinion, is not done enough. If you don't like the sharp corners you get with a knife-edge cushion, try Turkish corners.
The treatment is called pinch pleating. This works on the knife-edge cushion and the box cushion when it is a scattered — not a seat — cushion. The pleats create neat, rounded tucks at each corner. This treatment is used to great effect on this blue-gray plaid back cushion.
The treatment is called pinch pleating. This works on the knife-edge cushion and the box cushion when it is a scattered — not a seat — cushion. The pleats create neat, rounded tucks at each corner. This treatment is used to great effect on this blue-gray plaid back cushion.
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Here's a closer shot of a Turkish corner. With this style, the insert fits right up into the corners, so this cushion doesn't have the flat, pointy look of other cushions.
by Stonewood, LLC
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The bolster cushion has many uses. Its tubular shape with round ends is a great head support for something like reading in bed, and a helpful armrest on a banquette. Bolsters also break the visual monotony of traditional cushions.
As with round cushions, piping can help create a neat finish. Use a color that is already in the room for your piping.
Bolster cushions may or may not have zippers. After the loose filling is inserted, the seam is closed with a slip stitch. If you don't go with a zipper, remember to choose hard-wearing fabric, as spot cleaning will be your only option.
As with round cushions, piping can help create a neat finish. Use a color that is already in the room for your piping.
Bolster cushions may or may not have zippers. After the loose filling is inserted, the seam is closed with a slip stitch. If you don't go with a zipper, remember to choose hard-wearing fabric, as spot cleaning will be your only option.
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| The flanged cushion is also a change from the standard knife-edge cushion. A flange is a piece of fabric that extends beyond the seam, giving the cushion a gentle, fluttery effect. Flanged cushion covers can be made with the same fabric as the cover itself (called a self-border) or as an integrated border with a contrasting fabric. These striped pillows sitting on the chairs have the flange on the vertical, rather than all sides. Using the same fabric but turning the pattern a different way includes both ideas and gives you a stunning result. |
Ideabook published on Nov. 21, 2012.
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With all due respect, and to clarify some points:
- In the U.S., pillows generally refer to decorative soft goods used vertically, while cushions refer more to seating applications.
- With the use of down or down and feather inserts, the amount of fluffing needed depends upon how densely filled an insert is used. While feathers add resistance and weight, a lightly filled down and feather insert may require more fluffing than and adequately filled all down insert.
- Size of insert needed depends a lot upon the weight of the cover fabric, as well as the dimensions of the pillow. For a 22" Mohair or leather, I suggest a 24" insert; For a 22" lightweight silk, a 23" insert.
- An insert the same size as the pillow cover will not give a full look, but instead, will appear hollow around the edges. Never use an insert smaller than the cover. A high thread count down-proof ticking is a must, but also make sure the insert has been sewn with minute stitch length. Fill will escape through the seams, otherwise.
- A knife edge pillow or cushion sewn as a square with sharp 90 degree corners (like most imported these days) will have "rabbit ears", or pointed corners, which is only sometimes desirable. I usually sew with a rounded "Gothic Arch" shape at the corners, which rids the pillow of pointy corners, and yields a softer, more high-end look. So, knife-edge need-not be sharp cornered.
- For seat cushioning, for the most support, use a high density foam in a medium or medium firm (firm will feel like a rock), with wrap of down and feather, cotton, or dacron/poly batting. Only use an all polyester cushion material if you wish to see your cushion flatten-out in no time at all.
I too have leather sofas. I found fairly flat pillows in a heavy fabric will stand up and not slide off as easily as puffy pillows. I only have one on each sofa.....................for reading with eyes closed. :-)
In addition to pillows, use throws to add color. Don't confine yourself to traditional throws sold in shops - find wonderful textiles, and use those. For example, Indian wool shawls, which are fairly large, work well.
Gorgeous photo essay with great ideas: thanks, Gabrielle!
It's well nigh impossible to karate-chop a cushion filled with lower-class man-made materials, don'tcha know.
https://www.unitedpillow.com/
Restoration Hardware has very good prices on inserts and many to choose from.
Of course, fabrics with texture as opposed to sheen also help! Especially when there is a variation in the thread thicknesses (as with a patterned fabric).