To do prior to installation:
by Meg Padgett
- Check your local building codes for specific requirements.
- Check with your local utility companies and the federal tax code for rebates or tax write-offs for any energy-efficient upgrades.
- Review your window manufacturer's installation guide.
Materials and tools we used:
by Meg Padgett
- Jeld-Wen Flanged Window
- Jeld-Wen Vinyl Window Installation Kit (includes sill drain mat, self-adhesive flashing tape, backer rod, galvanized stainless screws, sealant and instructions)
- Polyurethane low-expansion window and door foam
- Three-hour rain-ready paintable silicone caulk
- 2- by 4-foot framing lumber
- Caulking gun
- Utility knife
- Construction stapler
- Drill with drill bit
- Hammer
- Tape measure
- Level
- Putty knife (you can also use a J-Roller)
Carefully remove the trim from the existing window, inside and out. Set it aside; you can use it later if you are installing the same size window or you can cut it to fit if the new window is smaller.
Our old windows were wood-framed built-ins. We used a reciprocating saw to cut through the nails that held it to the opening. We were able to remove the window completely intact in the hopes of recycling it at our local salvaged-goods store.
Tip: Get a helper to hold the window and keep it from falling out of the opening as you remove the fasteners that hold it in place.
by Meg Padgett
Our old windows were wood-framed built-ins. We used a reciprocating saw to cut through the nails that held it to the opening. We were able to remove the window completely intact in the hopes of recycling it at our local salvaged-goods store.
Tip: Get a helper to hold the window and keep it from falling out of the opening as you remove the fasteners that hold it in place.
Our old windows had odd dimensions, so we had to frame in a rough opening. This was actually a blessing in disguise, because even though it was extra work, we were able to frame an opening that was actually square and exactly the right dimensions for the new window. We also added sheathing and tar paper to match the existing moisture barriers under the original siding. Sheathing is the layer of wood between the frame of a building and its exterior skin. The tar paper attaches directly to the sheathing.
Because our home is older, many of our exterior walls are not insulated. With this wall open, we took the opportunity to insulate and shore up any weak and damaged beams.
by Meg Padgett
Because our home is older, many of our exterior walls are not insulated. With this wall open, we took the opportunity to insulate and shore up any weak and damaged beams.
After much research on retrofitting flanged windows, we decided to cut the current siding back to make room for new exterior window trim. We added new sheathing and slipped as much of the moisture barrier behind the current barrier as we could. You must know what size your window trim will be before cutting back the siding.
Tip: Use a chute board (also known as a shooting board) to create a flat surface for guiding the circular saw when you're making vertical cuts on uneven siding.
by Meg Padgett
Tip: Use a chute board (also known as a shooting board) to create a flat surface for guiding the circular saw when you're making vertical cuts on uneven siding.
After dry fitting the window and ensuring that the rough opening was correct, we installed the Sheetrock on the interior wall. The rough opening made installing and cutting the window hole much easier, since there was no window to get in the way of our drywall knife.
Once the new drywall was in place, we attached the self-adhesive flashing tape to the exterior of the opening, folding over the flashing material onto the bottom of the rough opening and on the side of the tar-papered exterior wall. After the flashing was in place, we attached the sill drain mat to the bottom of the rough opening, per the manufacturer's instructions.
by Meg Padgett
Once the new drywall was in place, we attached the self-adhesive flashing tape to the exterior of the opening, folding over the flashing material onto the bottom of the rough opening and on the side of the tar-papered exterior wall. After the flashing was in place, we attached the sill drain mat to the bottom of the rough opening, per the manufacturer's instructions.
Next we centered the window in the rough opening and used a level to check the top, bottom and sides. We also used a tape measure to ensure the diagonals were of equal length. Stainless steel screws provided in the installation kit secured the window through the flanged nailing fin (as shown in the photo). We made sure that the window remained level and centered as we secured it to the frame, starting from the bottom and working around the rest of the window.
Before we installed the interior trim, we applied the window and door foam sealant to the gap between the window and the window frame — creating additional insulation from the elements and eliminating any drafts.
by Meg Padgett
Before we installed the interior trim, we applied the window and door foam sealant to the gap between the window and the window frame — creating additional insulation from the elements and eliminating any drafts.
Before adding the exterior trim, we sealed the window with the self-adhesive flashing. Place the flashing over the window's nailing fin and fully cover the exposed wall beneath. Use a J-Roller or putty knife to fully seal the flashing and remove any air bubbles.
by Meg Padgett
We finished the window by trimming out both the exterior and interior. We attached primed and painted exterior trim boards to the outside.
Tip: Always add primer to any cut ends to protect against moisture damage.
To seal the window and trim, caulk the gap between both the window and the trim, and the trim and the siding. We ditched the provided sealant and used three-hour rain-ready silicone caulk, because here in Washington, you never know when the clouds will roll in.
For tips on how to add interior window trim, check out this how-to guide.
by Meg Padgett
Tip: Always add primer to any cut ends to protect against moisture damage.
To seal the window and trim, caulk the gap between both the window and the trim, and the trim and the siding. We ditched the provided sealant and used three-hour rain-ready silicone caulk, because here in Washington, you never know when the clouds will roll in.
For tips on how to add interior window trim, check out this how-to guide.
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Your vapor barrier work could be better. If you had cleaned up the framing, you might have created better insulation vapor barrier seals. Don't stuff batt insulation into stud bays. One large stud bay is better than a bunch of little boxed areas.
Always run the tar paper from the front of the house into the window framing. "Shingle" the tar paper to drive water away from and out of the house.
Never use silicone caulk where you want to paint. Paint won't stick to it. Instead use a very high quality paintable latex caulk for these areas.
Diane Menke
Myers Constructs Inc.
myersconstructs.com
In my opinion storm windows are a terrific addition to a picture window or other stationary glasses (stained, leaded etc) due the approx. 3" space which creates an air break. They are a more effective for sound barrier with lower efficiency due to the small opening they require to breath, otherwise they fog or condensate. Example: I'm in Texas and placed storm windows on my leaded glass. Without breather holes top and bottom for air filtration heat build up will soften the lead enough to collapse the windows which eliminates their efficiency to a great degree. Plus wood rots and requires continued maintenance.
I have been in the window business for over 40 years and I have never seen a replacement that has a 40 - 50 year return on investment. The average is 4-6 years and possibly 6-9 years on an upper end product. Could be more in some instances.
FYI: I priced the storms VS. replacement and the replacement was going to cost $107.54 more than storms. Much better value, efficiency and zero maintenance. I ended up with storms because my wife wanted to keep the leaded glass look.
Good conversation, I enjoy and respect your opinion.
http://napc.uga.edu/Popular%20Window%20Replacement%20Myths.pdf
That is only one of many articles about storm windows and their benefits. It is also more eco not to make trash of your old windows as well as good thing to preserve an old house.
Great article! Thank you for the share. I have printed it off to share at our sales meeting. I can totally agree with you and the article if we are addressing a Historical property which seems to me to be their main topic addressed. However, I do not agree with the statement of efficiency. Nor are they thermally, solar or wind filtration efficient.
Unfortunately there is no date on the article. Technology is such today that the concerns such as deflection, warping, high gloss sheen, profiles etc have all been addressed and eliminated.
This is one of the topics that can be debated all day due to personal beliefs and opinions. Of course nothing can truly replace the beauty of wood. However, one cannot deny documented laboratory facts. And the fact is, unless you are restoring a Historical home requiring original like products for installation, current technology manufactures a far superior, efficient and economical product requiring a substantially less amount of labor.
http://www.soft-lite.com/pdfs/nfrc_barrintonltd_final.pdf
Soft-lite also maintains the Gold certificate for the AAMA and the ONLY window manufacturer which is Gruff certified and recognized for security.
http://www.aamanet.org/general/2/32/certification
Thanks for the information and conversation.
Old glass or new glass does nothing for the R value. Only when coated with silver oxide does it alter the R value. The only reason your glass is wavy is because it did not go through the annealing process which heats the glass to a higher temperature and slowly cooling it to relieve any internal stresses. Thus increasing glass strength and removing imperfections or deflection in the glass.
I stand corrected. I made a major mis-statement. Yes the storm windows do assist the "R" value due to the air break between the panes of glass helping to insulate. When I responded I had solar heat gain on my mind. Excuse the mistake.
If you want to stay warm or cool, use storms, curtains and blinds. They work.
1. Order the window to fit the opening. Unless you have a desire to change the size of the window, you can simplify the installation by simply removing the trim, and measuring the rough opening of the existing window. Then, you can order a replacement with no nailing flange that will set right into the existing opening. No need to mess with outside trim or siding...which is especially important if you have asbestos containing siding. Remember to leave 1/2" in the height and width of the window you order for shimming.
2. If you DO decide to change the opening, make sure that the framing you install still properly carries the load of the wall AROUND the window. The original framing in this situation was marginal at best. What was installed after was completely wrong. The vertical and horizontal members are opposite of what they should be, and was overly complicated. A properly framed rough opening will contain a king and a jack stud to carry the weight through the wall and straight through to the floor. A double header above the window will spread the weight AROUND the window, down to a double sill plate, and continue to the jack studs. If any of these terms are unfamiliar to you, google is your friend ;). NEVER nail a vertical weight-bearing member on top of a horizontal member that is only end nailed without support underneath of it.
3. As someone else mentioned below, proper framing would have simplified the insulation of the wall as well; making larger single spaces which are more efficient to insulate.
Very good article about the positive results of changing out inefficient windows!
Bryan
L L P Construction