"Up, down and all around." I use this little saying to make sure I have addressed all the required elements when I'm planning a lighting design. Sounds simple, but it really does work.
Up Lighting
The most common use of up lighting is in a recessed cove around the top perimeter of a room. To maximize light output, use a T5 fluorescent or LED light source that will wash the ceiling with light. This helps to create a brighter ceiling that bounces and reflects light throughout the space without glare. Combine this with lots of natural daylight to increase the overall light levels in a room.
by Feinmann, Inc.
Up Lighting
The most common use of up lighting is in a recessed cove around the top perimeter of a room. To maximize light output, use a T5 fluorescent or LED light source that will wash the ceiling with light. This helps to create a brighter ceiling that bounces and reflects light throughout the space without glare. Combine this with lots of natural daylight to increase the overall light levels in a room.
If your cabinets don't go to the ceiling, consider adding lights above the cabinets. Using a more powerful light source, such as a T5 fluorescent, increases the reflectivity of the ceiling, thereby increasing the light in the room.
by Forum Phi 
While increasing light levels is important, it is equally important to minimize glare. Use matte finishes to reduce light flares and glare.
by Buckenmeyer Architecture
Honed Calacatta Marble Countertop [ Link ]
Countertops are often the culprits in causing glare. If you prefer stone countertops, consider those that are honed to reduce reflection and glare.
by Rugo Stone, LLC
Concrete Kitchen Countertop [ Link ]
Consider soapstone or concrete as well. Concrete countertops in particular are becoming more and more popular for all kinds of areas in the house, and there is no shine to them at all.
See more about concrete countertops
by Concrete Shop
See more about concrete countertops
Downlighting
Downlighting is just that: lighting that shines down to illuminate a space. Down lighting can sometimes be referred to as general lighting. Once it was simply the only light source in a room — that single fixture in the middle of the ceiling. If this is your only option, placement and quantity of fixtures are the keys to attaining a balanced lighting level while reducing dark corners. Pot lights are also considered downlighting.
by Smith & Vansant Architects PC Downlighting is just that: lighting that shines down to illuminate a space. Down lighting can sometimes be referred to as general lighting. Once it was simply the only light source in a room — that single fixture in the middle of the ceiling. If this is your only option, placement and quantity of fixtures are the keys to attaining a balanced lighting level while reducing dark corners. Pot lights are also considered downlighting.
Task lighting, including undercabinet lghting, is one of the single most important lighting specifications for any project, in my opinion. It puts the light where you need it most. In a kitchen it would be under the cabinet, where the light is in front of you, illuminating the surface and its objects, and not behind you, creating shadows. Pendants can also be considered task lighting.
by Tanner Vine - 2Go Custom Kitchens Inc
LED Under Cabinet Lighting - $18.00 [ Link ]
Opt for Xenon or LED lights for bright and warm yet accurate color rendering. Always make sure there is a diffuser or lens on the fixture itself to help evenly distribute the light and reduce any hot spots on the counter. As we age, we will require two to five times more light to perform the same tasks we did at a younger age.
by EnvironmentalLights.com
We all know by now that drawers are by far more functional and accessible than cabinets with doors. How about shedding some light inside your drawers? Another great use for task lighting! You won't have to search too long for a spoon when that midnight snack craving strikes.
by Sheridan Interiors
All-Around Lighting
All-around lighting includes general lighting and natural light. You want to ensure that at any time of day, there is enough light for everyone to effectively use the space without incident, and that any dark areas are minimized.
This kitchen showcases most of the types of lighting discussed. There's up lighting in the cove above the soffit and downlighting from the pendants over the peninsula and pot lights in the soffit. It also has toe-kick lighting, a nice contrast of material colors with low sheen and lots of natural light.
by Tracy Stone AIA All-around lighting includes general lighting and natural light. You want to ensure that at any time of day, there is enough light for everyone to effectively use the space without incident, and that any dark areas are minimized.
This kitchen showcases most of the types of lighting discussed. There's up lighting in the cove above the soffit and downlighting from the pendants over the peninsula and pot lights in the soffit. It also has toe-kick lighting, a nice contrast of material colors with low sheen and lots of natural light.
Cabinet Lighting [ Link ]
Visual Cuing
Another important aspect of lighting a space for those with diminishing eyesight is visual cuing. Visual cuing provides an additional reference point for judging distance or depth when entering a space or approaching objects. The lighting at the base of these cabinets, or toe-kick lighting, contrasts well with the dark floor and midtone cabinetry, creating a readily visible contrast. But people will just think it's cool.
More: Kitchen storage that works for all
by Kichler
Another important aspect of lighting a space for those with diminishing eyesight is visual cuing. Visual cuing provides an additional reference point for judging distance or depth when entering a space or approaching objects. The lighting at the base of these cabinets, or toe-kick lighting, contrasts well with the dark floor and midtone cabinetry, creating a readily visible contrast. But people will just think it's cool.
More: Kitchen storage that works for all
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Here's another good tip. If you can't or don't want to paint out your dark stained cabinets, consider lightening the walls and ceiling with paint. My late mother did this and our kitchen went from basement dark - switching on the lights to pour a glass of water - to atrium bright.
http://www.environmentallights.com/led-under-cabinet-lighting/environmentallights-high-brightness-premium/under-cabinet-light-bars.html
You will also find LED strip lighting here as well. I would recommend using the waterproof strip lighting for the toekick application.
Some call them suede finishes (as Ann Marie says of the Silestone). A honed finish knocks down the polish but is still a flat texture. An antique finish is offered by more engineered stones, again, thank goodness. See the Basalt finish by Caesarstone (just finished a job and client loves). For many years, I would have my quality stone fabricator apply the antique finish (a leather-like texture) to any natural stone. Here in Portland, we're lucky to have Oregon Tile and Marble stock many of their slabs with polished on one side and antique on the other. Brilliant use of warehouse space and client has no second guessing about what it will look like.
Just read some of the other comments and would like to respond about the lighting questions. Getting professional lighting advice is so important (it's not a contractor's job nor expertise). Remember, a good floor plan or lighting plan costs the same as a bad plan, usually less. Think proper optimization. Plus, you will live with this good/bad choice for so many years. When it comes to kitchens, combining lighting expertise PLUS lay-out and all materials, the best source to avoid shooting yourself in the foot is a CKD (Certified Kitchen Designer). Check out the NKBA (National Kitchen and Bath Association) and see who's in your area. But then, I'm a bit biased. In part, it's because of following/fixing errors for so many years that just didn't have to be.
That said, kitchen specialists begin with some good basic standards.
- Recessed can lights (a whole other subject) - recommended placement is 24" from the wall to the light centerline. This will vary, of course, pending ceiling joist placement. This allows for a radius of light to hit the counter area as well as your body and floor space. Common error; placing can lights too close to the wall cabinets. It hits the wall cabinets, throws a bad light scallop and then dies. You're not lighting where it's needed.
- Undercabinet lights (again, a whole other subject) recommended placement should ALWAYS be placed at the front of the wall cabinets, never the back. Common error; placed against the back wall and, again, hits the back wall and dies. So, you have a well lit wall but not working area.
- Backsplash tip of the day, electrically - Something I do with every electrical plan. With the undercabinet lights at the front of the cabinet, I put plug strips at the rear of the wall cabinet, face down. There appear to be no outlets breaking up your beautiful new backsplash when, instead, you have more than you ever had before. You've got it beautifully lit now. Don't break the view with those dastardly patches. (Look at photos, tell me you don't notice them now.)
The same with any other room in the house, It's important to tell at the store where are you attending to install the chandelier, and get their advice about the right amount of light needed for this space.