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Ancient figured velvet. Velvet is a fabric that has a thick, dense pile that is traditionally made of silk but today can also be made of acrylic and other fibers. Its production involves warps — tightly stretched threads that are drawn over rods to make loops. As the weaving progresses, the rods are removed, leaving loops that can be cut or uncut.

To appreciate figured velvet, we need to take a visit down the Silk Road. For quite some time, a country's wealth could be measured by its rolls of silk. Byzantine emperor Justinian sent two monks to Asia in the early 550s on a mission to bring back the source of silk. They returned to Constantinople with their bamboo canes filled with silkworm eggs and mulberry seeds.

By the 11th century, state-controlled silk factories were popping up all over the Mediterranean. Royal factories were later founded in Spain and Italy, which imported silk artisans from Greece.

This eclectic sitting room has a figured velvet–style fabric used on classic sofas to full effect. Strong golds and reds bounce off the ceiling mural, creating a warm glow.
by KuDa Photography
Figured velvet in the 14th century. By the 1500s, 7,000 looms and more than 15,000 weavers could be found working in the silk industry in Florence alone. Figured velvet had become a popular fabric; stylized pinecone, artichoke and thistle motifs were the designs of the time.

Eventually, Florentine silks became too expensive, and only the royal court could afford to keep the factories in business. The Venetians and the Genoese — who were especially famous for their elaborate velvets — started making more affordable but still equally beautiful pieces. Images of peonies, lotus flowers, eagles and dragons embellished these velvets.

This seat cushion design feels a little inspired by the traditional patterns used centuries ago. The tassels are a delightful finishing touch.
by Charmean Neithart Interiors, LLC.  
Figured velvet in the 17th century. Venice became so financially dependent on the manufacturers of silks and velvets that to keep their looms working year-round, they imported silkworm cocoons from Spain and Asia and raw silk from Turkey and Persia. Textile workers were not allowed to leave the country and could be killed if they tried.

The French refused to be left behind. The French monarch Henry IV planted 10 million mulberry bushes in Provence and developed local factories on grand scales. The French velvets were comparable with those of the Italians, with one exception: the famous Genoese black velvet. The French could never quite master the beauty and sheen of this fabric.

This Louis XVI fauteuil chair reupholstered in a cut velvet fabric would not have looked out of place in a 17th-century Venetian home.
by Delier & Delier
Figured velvet in the 18th century. In the 1900s the English became a force, producing high-end figured velvets — although much of the fabric they designed initially was intended for wear rather than furnishings. The velvets had floral patterns on light backgrounds, and by the middle of the 19th century, British weavers were reinventing the French patterns from a generation earlier.

Figured velvet is always a welcome addition in a serene and classic room like this. The daisy pattern is a modern take on the pleasant English floral patterns that were so popular in the 18th century.
by Charmean Neithart Interiors, LLC.
Laszlo Velvets [ Link ]
Modern figured velvet. These days few private patrons keep the hand-operated machines alive; 300-year-old machinery produces less than an inch of silk a day. Rubelli, a famous Venetian firm, still produces upholstery for a few major patrons. Figured velvets made of silk are now more often produced on mechanized thousand-loom machines, on a 24-hour schedule.

Today figured velvet can also be made from viscose on either a linen or cotton backing. Viscose is a very versatile product that can provide the look and feel of velvet without the hefty price tag. Velveteen — made of cotton or a blend of cotton and silk — is another modern option. However, this fabric does not drape as well as true velvet and will not have as high a sheen.
by Sanderson
Care of figured velvet. As with any fabric, checking the label or consulting the manufacturer for proper velvet care is always a good idea. Creases in velvet can become permanent, as they can flatten the pile — although steaming can sometimes help to remove them. Some dry cleaners and specialty stores have ironing boards with fine wires sticking out of them to help preserve the pile.

The designer of this dining room used many design influences to capture a thoughtful Middle Eastern aesthetic. The dining chairs pay homage to the 18th century despite their modern form by using figured velvet in a stylized brocatelle pattern.
by KuDa Photography

Comments

Charmean Neithart Interiors, LLC. Hi Gabrielle,
Thank you for this very informative ideabook. I was not aware of all this history related to this textile style, but of course this is one of the reasons why I enjoy working with fabric. There really are many stories to be told with textiles. Thank you so much for using my pictures.
Best regards. Charmean Neithart
5 months ago · ·
Dana Veach I always enjoy learning about beautiful textiles. Thanks for the excellent information and illustrations to add to my files.
5 months ago · ·
Elements of Style Thanks Charmean, I am a big fan of your work.
5 months ago · ·
tetoette That was so interesting !
Thank you !!
5 months ago ·
Jonathan Hress Design Love figured velvet. It makes everything look rich.
5 months ago ·
morgana44 Love love love this ideabook...so much information and awesome photos of the subject matter. Thanks you.
5 months ago · ·
Elements of Style Thanks for all the lovely comments, I really learnt so much myself as well.
5 months ago ·
Fine Art & Portraits by Laurel Thanks for the history of this textile.
5 months ago ·
Casart Coverings Gabrielle, a wealth of information here with the photos strategically placed so that imparting the history did not become too "heavy". Thanks!
5 months ago ·
gale puccinelli love the information!!!! Thanks!!
5 months ago ·
Dot Calm You did not mention Fortuny velvet, that is the ultimate, in my opinion...
5 months ago ·
frenchdecor Only yesterday I read about Victorian needlepoint upholstery (have a project in mind) and today such a pleasant surprise this article. I have 3 modern figured cushions in dark red, bronze and pumpkin velvet and silk (polyester) finishes, not genuine thing, but I like them.
5 months ago ·
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