7 Ways to Improve Bathroom Air Quality for Better Health
Clear the air for good — the right bathroom ventilation can purify what you breathe and prevent those nasty smells
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"When it's Perfect. It's Good Enough" - John Whipple
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Air pollution, mold and moisture are all things you don't want in your home — especially in your bathroom. The quality of the air inside a home is often worse than the quality outside, and much of this is due to poor home ventilation.
If you suffer from red, itchy eyes when you're at home, you could have poor ventilation. If your bathroom window is always covered in condensation, you could have poor ventilation. Mold and mildew on bathroom ceilings and strong lingering odors are other common signs. A musty-smelling shower is often a sign that the shower was not build and waterproofed properly.
Try these professional tips to help improve the quality of air in your bathroom.
If you suffer from red, itchy eyes when you're at home, you could have poor ventilation. If your bathroom window is always covered in condensation, you could have poor ventilation. Mold and mildew on bathroom ceilings and strong lingering odors are other common signs. A musty-smelling shower is often a sign that the shower was not build and waterproofed properly.
Try these professional tips to help improve the quality of air in your bathroom.
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by panasonic.com
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| 1. Get a great fan. A top-quality fan is a must in the quest for better indoor air quality. If you have a noisy fan, no one will want to use it. This Whisper Quiet Fan from Panasonic is my all-time favorite. I have been installing these for more than 12 years and have had only two complaints. Both times my clients complained that the fan was broken, but in both cases the fan was fine — it was just so quiet they couldn't hear it! Tip: Before calling your contractor and complaining about a broken fan, try holding a single sheet of toilet paper in your hand close to the fan grille. If it's a working unit, the fan will suck the paper right off your palm. If it doesn't, you probably need a new fan. |
2. Have multiple ways to dry out your bathroom. This shower has two things that can improve its air quality: a small window for fresh air and a fan. You can also take shorter showers to help reduce mold and mildew, since less moisture will need to be removed.
Tip: If you have low ceilings or a steam shower, avoid placing a fan inside the shower. You do not want the steam vapor using the ductwork of the fan as a chimney.
Tip: If you have low ceilings or a steam shower, avoid placing a fan inside the shower. You do not want the steam vapor using the ductwork of the fan as a chimney.
3. Install a fan timer. Find a fan timer with a one-hour setting and have your family use it with every shower.
Tip: If you are building new construction, consider adding a remote timer so you can turn the fan on in the middle of the day or evening. It is also possible to wire in a dehumidistat as well, so the fan will run when needed.
Tip: If you are building new construction, consider adding a remote timer so you can turn the fan on in the middle of the day or evening. It is also possible to wire in a dehumidistat as well, so the fan will run when needed.
If you have younger kids or don't think you'll remember to turn on the fan timer every time, consider a fan with a motion sensor.
| 4. Consider a heated floor. Having a timer for the fan and a floor heating system is a great tag-team approach to a dry and healthy bathroom. Nothing dries out a shower floor or bathroom tile floor faster than some lovely floor heat. Tip: Make sure your heating system is allowed inside the shower. This cable kit from NuHeat is a great option for this. |
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| 5. Make sure shower panels leave room for ventilation. Notice how these glass panels do not go all the way to the top of the bathroom ceiling. Keep frameless glass installations from going floor to ceiling (unless it's a steam shower), so you get more air circulation. |
This is a great example of perfect ventilation placement. The fan is near the shower entry, and the glass doors and walls do not block steam and vapors from leaving the shower.
6. Consider a shower transom in steam showers. If you study this photo closely you will see that this great shower is most likely a steam shower, due to the full glass surround.
The transom above the door can be used to help dry the shower when the door is closed. Placing the fan close to the transom also helps draw air out of the shower when the door is closed.
Tip: If you have a steam shower, you'll want to install a larger bathroom fan.
The transom above the door can be used to help dry the shower when the door is closed. Placing the fan close to the transom also helps draw air out of the shower when the door is closed.
Tip: If you have a steam shower, you'll want to install a larger bathroom fan.
7. Pay attention to grout lines. I love this bathroom. Notice how few grout joints there are on the floor. Fewer grout joints means less surface area to absorb moisture and quicker evaporation.
Ensure that the shower drain you install allows moisture to weep away from the underside of the tile. Heating the space with an approved heating wire can also really help.
Ensure that the shower drain you install allows moisture to weep away from the underside of the tile. Heating the space with an approved heating wire can also really help.
Ideabook published on Jan. 30, 2013.
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Both recommend that the heating system be installed under the showers waterproofing. If you would like more information on how to do this I suggest you contact these three people.
Carolyn Mason carolynm@nuheat.com
Nelson Wilner nwilner@noblecompany.com
Dale Kempster DKempster@schluter.com
I would further suggest you hire a member of the NTCA or TTMAC for the installation. Installing electricity under your shower should be done by a pro.
Simply building a shower to drain properly and not fall apart will improve air quality. Having proper ventilation and warm floors will only further improve the design.
JW
We just installed one of Panasonic's ventilation fans in a master walk in closet last year. My clients said it was night and day difference when they came back from a 4 month trip to the UK. What used to be a stale odour in the closets was replaced by no odour in the closets.
I made the mistake of not getting a 14/3 wire run from the switch to the fan. The ventilation fan I had installed has the option to kick in for a turbo blast with we a switch toggle on toggle off flip.
Same great fan but with some extra options.
We installed the Whisper Green Fan without the light. Needed to custom order it from back East. Took about 2 weeks to arrive to my wholesaler here in Vancouver.
https://panasonic.ca/English/ventilationfans/whispergreen.asp#.UQlDPKVC7Po
If you plan to use the low speed high speed option - don't forget to pull a 14/3 wire versus a 14/2. JW
I'm going to check out the fan you mentioned, but I think that if somebody is going to go with a silent fan then they really MUST also have the timer. Otherwise, it would always be left on and would wind up using more energy than a less efficient fan!
A little crude but effective. Once I bent the flapper a little it makes a little noise rattling and provides me and any guests a little background cover noise! lol
JW
I'm thinking I can wrap the back of the 4"x4" electrical box with some Quiet Rock Electrical Sound Reduction Puddy and really remove the clicking sounds you normally associate with thermostat switches. Paired up with some SafeNSound insulation this really might make a difference to this cycling noise.
Anyone else tried this?
JW
For me a fully enclosed shower would keep moisture in a designated wet area (ie, the shower) and prevent humid air from getting into the rest of the bathroom. A fully enclosed shower would also make for a warmer shower experience because the air in the shower heats up and stays hot because it doesn't rise and escape.
I'm about to build a new house and have been considering a fully enclosed shower for these reasons.
Is your shower going to be a steam shower as well?
This small transom in this steam shower does wonders speeding up the dry put period after a long steam.
The owner rigged up this clever stopper to keep more steam from escaping the steam shower. You can view more pictures of this bathroom here;
Corrine.Howard@ca.panasonic.com
Can you go out and down a soffit? Many times this is possible. Maybe post a picture out the bathroom window looking up at the roof. JW
As for switching out a switch for a dimmer this should be very easy to do. On some occassion you will find that your wiring inside the electrical box is over stuffed or too many connections in place. If this is the case you may need to change the box to get more room but in either case it's always safer to bring in an electrician.
I'm not sure what the code is in the US but here in Canada only a ticket electrican can work on a rental unit - so if your fixing things up for a tenant hire a pro.
JW
another great article, John
How to rig these fans up is an ideabook in itself. JW
I have included these details in 4 bathrooms. Just sayin
The heated floors are programed to be warm by 630 and shut off at 9, then be warm by 730 pm and shut off at 10 pm. This way the floor is always nice and warm when you willlikely be barefoot on the floor. Our bath room is the northwest corner of our home. It wa previously unuseable in the winter time. Now it is a very wonderful experience. i will never do a bathroom again with out heated floors. They probably cost about $10 per month in electric at $0.09 per KWH. But it si well worth it in our case.
I do still need to replace the fan with the panasonic. we have had them in previous houses. they are great. the timer is a very good idea.
http://tinyurl.com/aqmlgqz
We have a Panasonic wall fan in another bathroom and I'm going to add a timer to that one - great recommendation!
The company I bought mine from recomended putting 2 temp probes in teh floor so if one goes out you have a backup. I did not do that, but I should have. Food for thought if anyone is thinking about installing floor heat. Mine hav ebeen down for a year since Christmas. they work great and are nice to walk on. I will do floor heat in any future house I build. I may go hydronic in the future with an outdoor boiler.
There is absolutely no excuse to vent into an attic space, the vent should end up outside the attic space. Serious issues of mould will arise because of moisture being released into a cold space
When you pump warm moist air into a cold frozen attic - what do you think is going to happen? Attic spaces are design to allow for convection and some air movement to dry things out. Adding moisture to the equation is a bad idea.
Call your local building department and ask for some recommendations. JW
again, always follow manufacturers directions for what piping to use and how to pipe. I agree that solid piping is better, but when installing an inline fan that calls for insulated flex duct 20' downstream, do not substitute!!
I would call the manufacture or change fan suppliers if the spec was a flex line. One little rodent chewing a hole in the pipe would cause all sorts of issues.
JW
That is if you would like to deviate from the manufacturers instructions, weather installing a fan or installing a linear drain, call the manufacturer and speak to a tech or rep to see if a substitution is allowed. We talk about this alot with regard to tile installation over certain products... Local building codes will also play a part in materials used.
but not to fan the fire, company's like Fantech report CFM after recommended length of flex pipe, not free spinning (no pipe) like other company's where resistance plays a huge part.... the numbers are misleading, your 110CFM becomes 70 CFM after 2 elbows and a 20' run...
The panasonic fan points straight back and is easy to get the pipe running in the right direction from the start. I'm excited to see the new fans and products at the Panasonic booth next week at Build Ex. I'll ask the sales reps if they have any data on the performance between rigid duct lines and flex lines. I'll bet you $20.00 that the rigid pipe wins every time!
That and I've seen how nasty a flex pipe gets. I've seen the duct cleaners blow right through them with their air lines.
It was my duct HVAC cleaning guy who warned me of the pitfalls of the flex line. That was about 11 years ago and we have never used one since. Not for our fans. Not for our dryers. Not for our stoves. Never ever.... ! JW
USA 5 Star - https://www.tile-assn.com/Member/FiveStar.aspx?mid=84
for the Canadians in the house hire a member of the TTMAC
Canada TTMAC - http://www.ttmac.com/membership-directory.html
You might also find a qualified installer from one of the Marble Associations or someone recommended by the CTEF
CTEF - http://www.tilecareer.com
You can easily check your plumbers work with a 200 PSI pressure test on the water lines and a flood test of the drain and vent lines. After this have the tile man or woman prepare the waterproofing system. This way it is the tile setter responsible for the water tightness. Not the plumber.
Also let the tile setter do the wall boarding or float the walls.
Specify that the TCNA guidelines be followed. If your Canadian specify that the TTMAC guidelines be followed. If you do not own a guide book or specification book your not really following due diligence. You need to know how the best jobs get build. How commercial projects get specified. These guidebooks are our tile industry's bibles.
JW
Get the TTMAC Specifications here http://www.ttmac.com/component/seminar/?itemId=5
Get the TCNA Specifications here http://www.tcnatile.com/products-and-services/publications.html
And always flood test the shower. Most of the USA is under the IRC Building Code - it requires only a 15 minute flood test. Ask for and demand a 72 hour test, 24 hours at the very least.
I have developed a system of incorporating more air flow in the shower but this needs to be planned on from the very start. I have almost finished my testing but am very impressed with the progress so far.
Amy send me some pictures of your bathroom and shower - I might see something that has not been mentioned. Maybe I can come up with a solution for you. jfrwhipple@gmail.com
JW
These towel warmers (remote switched) do not have plugs, lights, switches or any warning labels on them that say "No wet towels". No red lights. No orange lights. Just a sleek design.
It is important to remember that most code state that no plugs or switches can be within one meter of 36" from a shower or tub. Now where do you want your warm towel?
I'm not sure if a towel warmer helps with ventilation but it certainly does raise the quality of daily life by warmer these towels. It also can improve the smell of a bathroom by keeping the towels dry so they don't hang damp and get that funky towel smell. JW
We have been thinking of running hose from shower wall down to crawlspace beneath and installing fan down there to draw air from shower (fan to be vented outside of course). Would this be problematic?
Steam vapour needs to be contained to the steam shower. We use a product called Kerdi Fix for sealing our penetrations and also a product called Noble Sealant 150.
Many of the higher end plumbing fixtures have been designed to be vapour proof. The fixtures from Dornbracht are the best i've ever seen and so well designed. With each rough in from Dornbract you get a custom rough in cover that ties into a Kerdi Band flashing. This combination ensures that the unit is vapour proof and also safe guards against an internal failure. If the unit was to leak it comes out the rough in and throw the trim alerting the home owner that the fixture has failed.
If the plumber is unaware what these piece are for they should be placed somewhere safe until the tile setter shows up. Unlike many North American fixtures these rough in's stay in place until the tile work is finished. When the waterproofing is done the flashing pieces get install right tight to the rough in. We use a bead of Kerdi Fix around these connection points.
Of course the German's thought this could be confusing.
Here is a picture explaining how to handle the transfer. "das is sehr gut" LOL
"When it's perfect. It's good enough." - JW
They have a great new fan coming onto the market I'm told. It has a two setting light which is LED. Perfect for night light settings and regular use.
Here is a peak. I asked why there was no LED option with colour and told them I could work it out for them if need be.....lol JW
When placing the grill have the grill lines run cross angle to the man focal view. This helps hide the fan from sight. The grills I have from Pansonic can be switched either or but not all do. Check this before installing the fan if yours is not reversible.
I do not like fans in a shower. There is no way to stop steam vapour from rising into them.
Having never installed a fan ever in a shower I can not comment on how they will hold up long term. Perhaps I'm being to hard on this set up???
JW
I had lunch with the Panasonic Rep at Build Ex and he chatted about some new products that have not come across my radar before. Turns out that Panasonic makes a room to room fan that solely moves air around a home.
My basement suffers from poor air quality and I will be purchasing a few of these to test out this new product. I'm going to pull in warm air from my living room and dump it into my basement office. From my basement office to my laundry room and from there to the kids playroom. This should improve the air quality a lot.
This is not a huge priority for me at the momment but I'll keep you posted.
HAs anyone else used these Panasonic room to room fans with good success?
Personally I feel our homes are being made to tight and I find with some homes the air in a house is stale. This is my choice of course and many have opposing views.
I have no forced air in my home and use old fashion radiators.
I've seen what these duct lines look like in 5, 10, 20 years and it's nasty. In my home we use mini HEpa Filters, windows and fans to move air around.
We went two years with only 2 0f 21 rads hooked up. My home is well insulated and leaks air exactly where I want it to.
If you look at my work you might reconsider letting me build your home. We are really good at what we do! JW
Preheat the bathroom. Set your thermostat to turn on the heat 15 minutes before you take a shower.
Set your thermostat to warm up the room before you shower. Steam likes nothing more than a cold surface to condense on, look at a cold window. Warmer walls condense less moisture.
I notice coastal people, like in Vancouver, keep there houses colder than say prairie people (like me sometimes). Their bathrooms, given a shower of the same time absolutely soak their walls.
My warmer preheated Calgary bathroom is much dryer, fan or no fan. Of course the relative humidity is higher on the coast, but that can be offset by warming the air too. Warmer air holds more water, then you suck that water laden air our with your fan rather than it condensing on the cooler walls and floors. Let the heat go down 20 minutes after you have used your shower, when the fan goes off, and your bathroom is dry. That works in my NL house.