Get on a Composting Kick (Hello, Free Fertilizer!)
by Matt Kilburn · 7 photos · 76 comments
The term "composting" describes the aerobic decomposition of nitrogen-rich green waste and carbon-rich organic matter (such as leaves). The key is to get the perfect balance of green waste to organic matter.
Depending upon the size and type of bin system you use, the parameters will vary slightly, but as a rule of thumb you want to add a handful of organic matter for each handful of waste. Note your composter's specific requirements, though.
by Matt Kilburn
Depending upon the size and type of bin system you use, the parameters will vary slightly, but as a rule of thumb you want to add a handful of organic matter for each handful of waste. Note your composter's specific requirements, though.
In general, these items can be used with a standard composting system:
Green material (nitrogen rich):
by Matt Kilburn
Green material (nitrogen rich):
- Kitchen scraps (vegetable and fruit)
- Coffee grounds and tea leaves
- Plant trimmings: leaves, foliage and flowers
- Grass clippings: fresh mulch from mowing (lawns without pesticides)
- Leaves: dry fall leaves (oak leaves decompose slowly; use those sparingly)
- Newsprint, cardboard and brown paper, shredded or cut up into small pieces (use sparingly)
- Dry grass clippings
- Straw — an excellent source of carbon
Composting is a great way to get the entire family involved in garden activities. Everyone can participate and feel good about making a difference. And it's a great tool for kids to learn the fundamentals of recycling items into the earth.
Easy steps for composting with a standard system or bin:
by Matt Kilburn
Easy steps for composting with a standard system or bin:
- Choose a flat, partly sunny spot with good drainage that is convenient to get to.
- Create a 12-inch base layer in your bin using straw, leaves or woody brush material to promote air circulation.
- Alternate layers of green and organic materials.
- Whenever you add a food scrap layer, top it off with an organic material layer.
- Every two weeks mix the contents in the bin. This aerates the materials and gets the bin heated up again for decomposing matter.
- The pile will shrink over time. Continue to add layers until the bin is almost full.
- Harvest the compost every six months. The bottom and center should be fully decomposed and full of healthy, moist areas for worms.
- If your soil has large chunks, you can sift it through a mesh screen.
Choosing a bin. Composters come in many shapes and sizes. They can be purchased at most garden stores and nurseries as well as city disposal stations.
This particular bin allows you to place compostable materials in the top and harvest compost from the bottom.
by Matt Kilburn
This particular bin allows you to place compostable materials in the top and harvest compost from the bottom.
This rotating bin is the easiest one to manage. The only downside is that the soil needs to be harvested all at one time.
by Matt Kilburn
This system is geared toward serious compost aficionados. Once it's up and running, you can process large quantities of compost with staggered availability — meaning you always have a steady supply of compost ready to go.
An active compost pile (one that you continually add green waste to) needs more time to decompose. This system allows you to stop adding green waste to one pile so it can finish composting. When it is finished, use it in your garden and start refilling the bin while the other pile finishes. The third bin in this system is always left empty to allow for easy mixing.
by Matt Kilburn
An active compost pile (one that you continually add green waste to) needs more time to decompose. This system allows you to stop adding green waste to one pile so it can finish composting. When it is finished, use it in your garden and start refilling the bin while the other pile finishes. The third bin in this system is always left empty to allow for easy mixing.
A worm bin is another option that works especially well in small spaces. Worm composting, or vermicomposting, is very similar to standard composting but operates on a smaller scale and relies primarily on worms for decomposition. The worms used in these compost systems are called red wigglers; they can often be purchased along with a bin (or you can get them from a friend’s system).
Worm bins can generate great liquid and solid fertilizer for your plants. Most commonly, people purchase specifically designed worm composting bins that are relatively shallow and wide.
What has been your experience with composting? Do you love it, or would you rather leave the scraps behind? Share your thoughts and composting tips below.
by Matt Kilburn
Worm bins can generate great liquid and solid fertilizer for your plants. Most commonly, people purchase specifically designed worm composting bins that are relatively shallow and wide.
What has been your experience with composting? Do you love it, or would you rather leave the scraps behind? Share your thoughts and composting tips below.
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Also, cities have the ability to get far more green benefit out of organic waste than individuals do; e.g., when the scale is big enough, anaerobic digestion and gasification for the cogeneration of heat and biogas become possible. Also, organic waste can be pyrolyzed for heat and energy, and the residual, an extremely stable compound called biochar, can be buried in the earth as a way to sequester carbon (which is nature's way of storing carbon in ecosystems that experience a lot of fire).
Point is, if you don't love composting, write to your city council about trying organic waste collection, if they don't already, and looking into these types of technologies. That's where the real environmental benefits come in and they could one day totally transform how we heat and power our cities.
We used to create 3-4 bags of kitchen trash every week. Now we are down to 1.
I just wish our town did curbside compost collection (other than yard waste). That way, others would be willing to compost without the (little) work.
The first two bins are the active bins. One is left empty, the other we deposit our uncooked food waste, torn up newspapers, dead plant matter, crushed eggshells, egg cartons, seaweed etc. During the summer I cover it with cardboard box flattened, in winter with cardboard and carpet. The boxes rot into the compost eventually.
Every 2 weeks or so I turn those contents into the empty bin as part of the compost aeration process. I find it easier to tip from one to the other rather than trying to turn the compost within the bin itself. This along with low sides makes it easier on the back.
Having said that I sometimes do sacrifice one of the bins for leaves which I pile up and leave open to air and rain to break down into leaf mould. Leaves break down through bacterial activity and so don't require worms or heat to facilitate the process. Can take up to 2 years though...better in a large wire basket or if stuck for space in black bin bags well punctured.
The third bin is the 'closed' bin i.e the previous seasons full bin which is covered with cardboard and carpet and is in the final process of composting.
http://www.finegardening.com/how-to/qa/pine-needles-compost.aspx
http://www.plantchicago.com/
I usually hot-compost, generating temperatures of 160-170 degrees in the middle of the pile, so I kill any pathogens or weed seeds, and get finished compost in about 6 weeks. In 28 years, I've seen every kind of composting problem.
What's my ideal compost bin? a cylinder of welded wire fencing. Either 1 x 1" or 1 x 2" mesh. 3 pieces of wire to seal the ends together. Enough room to turn the pile to one side.
Why is this better than a 3-bin system? Because when you want to turn the pile, you untwist 3 strands of wire, pull the fence aside, and turn the pile over to one side. After you've turned 1/3 of the pile, put the hoop back around, wire it up, and fork the rest of the pile over the top.
And when it needs a boost I get the boys to wee on it!!
No fear of anyone stealing your identity then. Ha ha!
Lisa, shredded documents are great "brown" materials in composting systems, especially worm composters. I just mix half chopped kitchen scraps, half shredded paper to feed my worm bin. What you said about your boys whizzing on the shredded documents reminded me of what my mom used to do. She didn't even shred her bank statements, she'd just put them in the diaper bin from my sister's day care center. She never worried about identity theft, either. it
This period when bacteria monopolize nitrogen is called the nitrate depletion period.
Pine needles used as mulch won't create this problem. It's only when they're mixed into soil that they become a problem.
Juniper is related to pines, but rosemary and lavender are in completely different plant families. You can use small amount in compost, but large amounts are not advised.
Never use walnut leaves or chips in compost piles. Walnuts contain juglones, persistent chemicals that are toxic to nightshade vegetables like tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants.
Here's a couple pictures of pepper plants grown with worm castings:
You are hilarious, "speaking of peeing on your compost.... reminds me of my mom..." (not actual quote : ) And knowledgeable! Thank you for all the great info. Even why pine needles aren't good for composting, but great for mulch.
I have to say that I just knew you had to be in California. Props to CA!
Urine in compost increases it's temperature which kills pathogens more thoroughly and speeds the process - the resulting compost contains significantly higher nitrogen than wee-free compost.
1 part wee to 2 parts compost is the primo ratio (that's a lot of urine!) and it should be added in 3 separate lots a week apart.
For more info - http://www.ecosanres.org/icss/proceedings/presentations/26--PragyaShrestha--PresentationAugust.pdf
The first time I tried composting 28 years ago, I was excited, too. I started tossing my kitchen scraps in a pile in the back yard, and three weeks later, it was full of maggots, and stunk to high heaven. You should add equal parts "brown" and "green" materials (like kitchen scraps).
I also ONLY use leaf compost in my beds....back to the way nature intended.
The worms do not smell and are workaholics....a lb of worms will produce 100X their weight in rich, organic compost....and my kids love the idea they are "growing worms"~
My worms have multiplied from the one pound (1,000 worms) that I started with, and the most time consuming part of the process is separating the worms from the harvestable dirt (not difficult, and I could make it easier on myself if I didn't try to retrieve every last worm from the dirt). Our two-year old LOVES feeding the worms each day and she knows when they're happy (or "being squiggly"). If you're turned off by the thought of contact with the worms, don't be. They're very shy (really!) and usually bury themselves quickly when you lift off the lid. If you don't want contact with them (e.g., when you harvest the dirt), then you basically leave the soil in a pile on a tarp. The worms stay away from the light, so they bury down. You just scrape the top layer of dirt off every so often and keep repeating the process until you're near the bottom of the pile. Simple!!!
I find that a garage that doesn't freeze and doesn't get too hot inside is best. You could feasibly have the worm bin inside the house if you're good at managing the process.
Try it. It's fun. Much more fun than the old compost bin.
You could flush the kitty poop in the toilet and then compost the biodegradable litters (like the newspaper or wheat chaff litters you mentioned).
Having said that, if anyone in the US sees grey-colored larvae, about 1" (2-3cm) long in their pile, say thanks. These are most likely soldier flies and are harmless and very shy (as flies go). They are good to have because they compete with your typical house flies and also eat other insect larvae. There are some people who will actually do vermicomposting (worm bin composting) using nothing but soldier fly larvae.
Hope that helps.
Andrew
Flushing cat litter down the toilet, however, isn't the best idea. Toxoplasmosis isn't filtered out by sewage treatment, and it's been killing sea otters along the California coast for the last couple decades. Better to bag it and landfill it. The parasite can't make it into groundwater.
I bought a worm farm upward migrating system 10 years ago, and it's some of the best money I've ever spent.
Could someone to help be to be brave and have a simple way to start?
I drilled holes in 3 large plastic pots for plants that I placed directly in my garden behind a bush to provide some shade. I added newspaper and card board on the bottom and all our kitchen scraps go in. I add more card board or paper whenever I reckon the worms need a change, about every 2 or 3 weeks. I put two large tiles on top of the pots to keep the raccoons, etc. out. The worms work their magic as they freely come and go to the garden through the bottom of the pot and they increase their population based on available food supply.