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Butcher block counters and cutting boards are a useful addition to any kitchen, but as with any meaningful relationship, they demand care and respect. Unlike standard wood finishes for furniture and cabinetry, wood designed to come into direct contact with food is finished with oils free of harsh substances that could be harmful if ingested. And food-safe finishes are generally less durable. Combine less-durable finishes with frequent exposure to moisture and utensil abuse, and you end up with a dry, grainy board that absorbs water like a camel with a straw.
by R. Olson Design
Cleanliness. The most important thing you can do for your butcher block is keep it clean. Unlike stone or laminate counters, on which it takes days for stains to really penetrate, wood will capture blemishes quickly and display them as a constant reminder of neglect. The simplest method of preventing stains is to regularly remove all food waste and scrub the block with mild soap to free any stubborn particles, then towel it off to remove excess moisture. Just by doing this, you will significantly prolong the life and durability of your butcher block.

A mild scrub might keep your block aesthetically pleasing, but sanitation is of utmost concern. Since strong chemical cleaning agents can leave acrid and unhealthy residue on prep surfaces, use them only as a last resort. Instead, keep a spray bottle of undiluted vinegar handy. Studies have shown that acetic acids in white vinegar serve as a powerful disinfectant, ridding butcher blocks of bacterias like E. coli and salmonella.

Using a fine-edged steel scraper or spatula can also be helpful to the cleanliness of your board. Simply draw a scraper along the block not only to easily remove stubborn debris, but to also remove up to 75 percent more moisture than towel drying.
by R. Olson Design
Stain removal. You let that puddle of hot sauce sit on the butcher block too long? So have the rest of us. Even the tidiest kitchen keeper stumbles once in a while, and if you're a proud butcher block owner, you will inevitably be faced with stubborn stains. There are several ways to treat stains, and everyone has an opinion, but here are some proven techniques. With the exception of lemon, it's a good idea to reapply a finish after all of these methods, as they have a tendency to dry out wood.
  • Lemon. The most organic approach is table salt and lemon. Sprinkle the salt over the stain. Slice the lemon in half, and using the cut end, thoroughly rub the salt into the stain. Let this mixture set overnight or all day and then clean it off with a damp sponge. This technique is also useful for combating odors like garlic and onion that take residence in your cutting board.
  • Baking soda. Cover the stain with baking soda and work it into the board using some elbow grease. Let the baking soda stand for a few minutes before cleaning it off. The goal of this method is to essentially draw the stain out with the baking soda.
  • Bleach. As a last resort, mix equal parts water and bleach and apply to the block using a sponge or rag. Make sure you wring out the rag or sponge so that it is slightly damp. If the stain is stubborn, let it saturate overnight. After wiping the surface clean, be sure to apply vinegar to neutralize the bleach. Note: Bleach may discolor the wood.
  • Scrape. As mentioned earlier, a good scraping can do wonders for removing frustrating marks without your resorting to sandpaper.
  • Sanding. When all else fails, stains can usually be sanded out. Using some coarse papers (80, 100) will save you some sweat getting the bulk of the stain out. Finer grits (180, 220) will return the block to its desired smoothness. When you sand the stain, you'll inevitably create a depression in the area. To relieve this effect, sand the surrounding area, waning as you get farther from the stained area. This will achieve a more uniform surface. When you hit the board with the finest paper you choose, sand the entire board. Leaving some areas unsanded will cause those areas to absorb more water and potentially warp. This method absolutely requires reapplying a finishing oil.
by R. Olson Design
Finishing touch. Food-safe finishes, such as mineral oil and tung oil, wear over time and require reapplication. But before you have a flashback of that old antique oak sideboard that took you a week to refinish, relax. If your butcher block is in good shape and needs nothing more than an oil boost, the process simply involves cleaning the surface, liberally applying the finish by hand or with a rag and wiping off the excess after a half hour or so.

During the application, make sure to give attention to the sides — especially the end grain, as this area is most susceptible to moisture. After the oil sits for 15 to 20 minutes, you'll notice the oil has absorbed more in some spots and pooled in others. Redistribute the oil, spreading it evenly again, and let it sit for another 15 minutes. Then wipe off any excess with a clean rag. If you've noticed your block has absorbed the oil rather quickly, apply another coat to achieve proper coverage.

A common misconception is that vegetable or cooking oils can be used to treat butcher block. These oils will eventually spoil and turn rancid, leaving you with a sour prep surface. If you wish to use more natural oils, walnut, almond and coconut oil all have a higher resistance to turning rancid, but are still susceptible, so maintain with a careful eye if you choose this method.

Tip: One way to boost the repellency of your finish is to mix paraffin or beeswax into the oil. Heat up a chunk of paraffin in a tin can on the stove and mix it thoroughly with the oil. Because the wax will coagulate rather quickly, be ready to move quickly.

A handy way to get an even spread is to use a stiff plastic scraper. The trouble with this method is the potential for wax to build up in some spots, but that's not a catastrophe, because it can be scraped away after setting. However, the buildup may disrupt a uniform sheen in the final outcome.

More:
How to Make a High-Quality Cutting Board From Scrap Wood
Butcher Block Makes the Cut for Holiday Kitchen Prep
by R. Olson Design

Comments

kjdick Great piece! People shy away from wood too often. Just like anything else though, it's all about the proper care. Very helpful thanks for sharing!
3 months ago · ·
jdforney I love my butcher block counters! I don't cut on them though- I use my butcher block cutting board for that. I do oil my counters now about once a year (the cutting board is done every few months) and while I'm at it, I take care of my wooden spoons & spatulas. They look lovely after years of use!
3 months ago · ·
monettle We have a walnut island top. We consider it as the showpiece of our kitchen and use it the way we would treat a table top. I treat it with Boos Block Cream once a month, which is a mixture of mineral oil and beeswax. The water beads on the surface and does not penetrate, not to mention the beautiful color it brings out. Once, the cat knocked over a vase and even though the water sat there overnight, I just treated the stain with the cream and it looked good as new, with no signs of warping.
3 months ago · ·
jh77 Good article. My house was built in 1960 and has a piece of butcher block inset into the counter (between the turquoise stove top and oven). I have been meaning to give it a good cleaning and possibly sanding so this is useful.
3 months ago ·
Dura Supreme Cabinetry This is a GREAT article! Love it!
3 months ago ·
jrwquattro I use my butcher block multiple times per day. I do avoid cutting raw meats on it to eliminate that contamination risk, but everything else gets cut here. I use a mineral oil beeswax blend on the board every couple months now that it is fully penetrated with the oil. I also keep a bench scraper (dough scraper) handy to scrape the surface clean before wiping it down if things get messy or I'm mixing dough on the surface. Wood has some natural antimicrobial properties so I rarely "clean" the surface other than wiping it down.

The chopping block is one of the best decisions we made when remodeling the kitchen. I absolutely love having a large work/cutting surface.
3 months ago · ·
dmhouse Vinegar does not "neutralize" bleach, but rather it causes chlorine to be released -- which can be hazardous if there is enough chlorine still around from the bleach. Wanting to get rid of the chlorine smell is understandable, but speeding up the process by releasing a lot of chlroine at once can be risky.
3 months ago · ·
Ariane Morales Very useful tips, thanks!!
3 months ago ·
greenarte This is a great article, wood counter tops are so lovely. For anyone dealing with nut allergies note that tung oil is derived from the nuts of Vernicea fordii and its cousins, all Asian nut trees. Food prep on a tung oil treated surface or airborne tung oil particles-- either scent or in refinishing sawdust-- can be very problematic for sensitive folks. Teak oil also contains tung oil; another nut derived wood treatment is Van Dyke stain (used on furniture). Mineral oil, butcher block oil and salad bowl oil should be 'nut free' but there are many proprietary blends so if it's a concern read those labels!
3 months ago · ·
gillianne Thank you! Timely reminder that I've been neglecting my butcher blocks, including the ones I hope to have forever. This goes right on my "to do" list.
3 months ago ·
Lauren Bosmeny Does anyone know of a way to darken a butcher block...some non toxic stain. Ours in maple, and while I love the BB, it would look nicer if it was darker! Any ideas appreciated!
3 months ago · ·
aswedishelf Mineral Oil (yep the stuff you get in the pharmacy) is a great oil to use and costs much less than the special oils for wood. It does not go rancid. I use it on my butcher block countertops .

When I oil my counters I wipe them down to remove any crumbs or dirt then I use a light sanding block for any stains. I wipe the counter again to remove the dust and then oil. I use one rag for applying the oil and another rag to wipe down the counter after I let the oil sit. I keeps these rags in baggies and don't worry about washing them. I don't want to mess up the washer with all that oil. If the counter seems too dry I let the oil sit overnight, otherwise 30 mins to an hour. Counters need more frequent oiling in the winter as well.
3 months ago ·
pt8648 Food-grade mineral oil (not from a drug store) is my weapon of choice, and stated above, will not turn rancid. Over time the wood take less oil to protect it. I know a few chefs who will only use it. I agree, the lemon and salt do a wonderful job cleaning wood. In-fact, chefs use them to also clean pots and pans, they end up looking almost brand new.
3 months ago · ·
pt8648 To Lauren: To naturally darken the wood, I use dark roasted coffee grinds. There are a few simple preparations and steps. I would recommend to Google it.
3 months ago · ·
R. Olson Design I've found the Boos Mineral Oil (as seen in the photo) to be a pretty good oil option. A bottle will run around $8 and last quite a while.

As for natural wood darkening, I can't recommend anything, but the roasted coffee grounds sounds like a cool option. If you do it, please let us know how it turns out! You'll have a wonderfully aromatic butcher block, if nothing else.
3 months ago · ·
Capozzi Design Group Great article, thanks for sharing. As a kitchen designer, I find that many people are surprised to hear about wood as option for a beautiful, functional counter top option.
3 months ago ·
Capozzi Design Group Great article! As a kitchen designer, I find many homeowners are surprised when I recommend wood as an option for counter tops.
3 months ago · ·
The Rogers Company Great article! I am designing a new home that will have a butcher block top on the main island in the kitchen...Thanks!
3 months ago · ·
Sue Strommen I had a custom crafted John Boos 4x8 ft center island for 22 years. It was exceptionally easy care and useful.
3 months ago ·
merlin78639 We have been living with the mesquite butcher block island in our home for eight years now. We chose this native wood for its beautiful, rich color and grain. It makes me happy just to look at it.
3 months ago ·
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