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Botanical name: Magnolia x soulangeana
Common names: Saucer magnolia, Japanese magnolia, tulip magnolia
USDA zones: 4 to 9 (find your zone)
Water requirement: Moderate (keep the soil evenly moist)
Light requirement: Full sun to partial shade (prefers morning sun)
Mature size: 25 to 30 feet tall; similar spread
Benefits and tolerances: Blooms attract bees, butterflies and birds; easy magnolia to grow; tolerates clay soil
Seasonal interest: Early, prolific blooms on bare branches
When to plant: Plant it in spring during active growth. (It can also be planted in fall before the frost.)
by The New York Botanical Garden
by Matthew Cunningham Landscape Design LLC
Distinguishing traits. Saucer magnolia heralds the coming spring as one of the season's earliest bloomers. Flowers appear earlier in milder climates, and later where winter persists. Five- to 10-inch waxy blooms cloud bare branches even before the tree leafs out, emphasizing its spreading, architectural form — one of the tree's most elegant qualities.

Look for fuzzy 1-inch buds as signs of flowers to come. White, fragrant blossoms blush pink and purple as they emerge and open to their namesake saucer shape. Many cultivars have been developed in a wide array of colors and sizes. When the blooms fall, waxy petals temporarily transform the ground into a soft pink blanket.

The tree leafs out after blooming, producing glossy, bright 4- to 6-inch ovate leaves. By late spring the spectacle of saucer magnolia has passed, but that doesn’t mean its value is lost. Foliage persists well through summer, turning yellow and brown in fall before dropping.

While we're all wild about its flowers, the form of saucer magnolia itself makes a beautiful garden focal point. Appreciate its spreading, low branching structure and smooth gray bark until its flowers return again.
by The New York Botanical Garden
How to use it. Saucer magnolia is the ultimate early-spring accent tree, but remember it's a year-round garden feature. Plant it in a protected area where you can enjoy its blooms in spring, foliage through summer and architectural branching structure over winter.

Cluster multiple trees, but remember the maximum size of the tree and its roots, and consider its mature size when you're planting it. Saucer magnolia reaches soaring heights for a patio tree but is also low branching.

Here, mature magnolias line Commonwealth Avenue in Boston.
by Matthew Cunningham Landscape Design LLC
Bring a few flowering magnolia branchlets inside.
by PLATEMARK DESIGN  
Planting notes. There’s a reason saucer magnolia is used so extensively — it’s one of the most tolerant and easy-to-grow magnolias. But that in no way means it's a low-maintenance or no-maintenance tree. Magnolia trees are investments, of both time and money.

Saucer magnolias are not difficult to grow, but they take time to establish. Be sure to take extra care and pay attention to small details when they are young.

Plant in spring when the tree is actively growing. Fall will also work, but plant at least four to six weeks before the ground freezes.
  • Select a site that will protect the tree from harsh winter winds or heat that may cause it to bloom too early in spring. Also be sure it has enough room to grow (look out and up). Magnolias do not like to be transplanted, so you want to get the spot right the first time.
  • Dig a hole twice the diameter of the root ball, but don’t dig deeper than the root ball. Magnolias have fleshy surface roots, so you don’t want to cover those too much.
  • Be sure the root ball is well watered to make root damage less likely. (The roots will be supple and less brittle.)
  • Break up the surrounding soil so it doesn't serve as a root barrier.
  • Place the root ball in the ground, maintaing an even space around it.
  • Backfill with rich, organic material; water in well and mulch.
  • Maintain moist soil. Mulch over to protect the soil from frost.
Saucer magnolia grows moderately to slowly, so don’t expect to see flowers the first year. Be patient and nurturing. In midsummer, after it finishes flowering, lightly clear out crossing and damaged branches. There are no major pests associated with this tree.

More: How to Help Your Trees Weather a Storm
by Matthew Cunningham Landscape Design LLC

Comments

PLATEMARK DESIGN Thanks for featuring our shot. We adore magnolias and if you're ever in Boston when they bloom along Commonwealth Avenue, you might faint from their beauty!
4 months ago · ·
junkrk This is a beautiful species of tree. However be advised that all those blossoms make quite a lot of debris for patio and lawn areas.
Also what are best practices for pruning mature trees? A previous owner of mine cut it way back. I have done some strategic light pruning but have conflicting information on best times of year and whether to contInue the practIce of cutting way back.
4 months ago · ·
kellystevens I have a beautiful tulip tree with deep fuschia colored flowers, and another classic magnolia with huge white blossoms. Both trees are old and magnificent. They both require several deep soaks of water during the summer (as well as dry winters). And they drop tons and tons of leathery leaves almost all year long. So while they are absolutely gorgeous, they are not low maintenance or water-conserving, which are important things others might want to consider when planting trees.
4 months ago ·
windshiftdogs While I love my saucer magnolia, in my area it is a shrub - if you're lucky- rather than a tree. I've never had a deer eat it, but in fall it is the favorite place for a buck to rub the velvet from his antlers, breaking the entire bush to the ground at times. If you have deer, be warned.
4 months ago ·
Studio NOO Design Thank you for featuring the most beautiful tree ever ! I planted a 6 foot tall magnolia in my backyard and it is now 15 feet high and giving hundreds of beautiful flowers...smell so good too !
4 months ago · ·
emmy2 Yes, it can be a beautiful tree, but those unfamiliar with this specific tree should know that it is a very messy tree, and if you live in zone 5 or less, an early frost will destroy all the blossoms. In my zone (5a), this happens at least 2-3 times out of every five years. Even when there is not an early frost, it's blossoms do not last long. In my opinion, there are better specimen trees out there.
4 months ago · ·
cheezyrdr If you have a deer problem rubbing your trees, I suggest using BOBBEX deer repellent. Go to www.Johnsonsway.com to order it. He sells it less than the manufacturer's website. It's soooo much better than Liquid Fence!
4 months ago ·
Amy B Our Magnolia after the snow we got this weekend.
4 months ago · ·
tabre3 Let me add a fact about magnolias, which are so beautiful... they take a LONG time to grow to maturity! Some species take 20 yrs or more to reach full growth. Of course they will bloom and be gorgeous before that time, but be aware if you are looking for a full shade tree feel right away, you may be looking for a different tree.
Yrs ago I bought a magnolia tree online. Not having much money at the time, I bought the most inexpensive one. In the mail came a 4 inch "tree"! If the poor thing had survived being accidentally run over by the lawn mower because it was so small, it would have taken 10 yrs before I could have appreciated it. My (former) marriage had even worse odds! lol
4 months ago ·
Robyn McCoach I am allergic to bee's so have planted mine away from the house so I can admire from afar as well as my cherry tree
4 months ago · ·
sclawson Have loved saucer magnolias from the time I was a little girl and first noticed them. The one we planted at our first house took a few years to bloom. When I got tired of waiting, I put it on a regimen of Miracle-gro every two weeks one summer, and the following spring the display was gorgeous. Always a show-stopper, one the neighbors always comment on.
4 months ago ·
Olga Kraus Indeed magnolia is beautiful but be aware that it can become infested with scale, which is somewhat difficult to eradicate (requiring diligent annual treatments of dormant oil spray). Keep watch for colonies of little bumps on the surface of young branches and get rid of them asap.
4 months ago ·
sheba877 I need a bit of advice, I live in New York and my magnolia took a hard it from Sandy this Winter and lost a few large branches. What should I do, cut back what's left to the trunk or leave it be? My tree is almost 45 years old and I don't want to loss it.
4 months ago ·
lival Our magnolia was planted on the front lawn when the house was built in 1948. I live in zone 6 on Long Island. The blossoms are beautiful, but usually last for less than a week. -One year we had a lot of snow and rain in the fall and winter, and that year the blooms lasted almost two weeks. We were thrilled. Getting the petals off the lawn is a chore.
4 months ago · ·
Gary Presto When I lived in Boston's Back Bay through most of the 1990s, one thing I especially wondered at were the concentrated, dense amounts of beautiful foliage, shrubs and gardens in that relatively compact area of the city--if someone popped out of the ground right there, they might not have guessed for a moment that they were in Beantown's downtown. ;) The sight of these trees and their beautiful springtime blossoms was a highlight to wait for each springtime.
4 months ago · ·
Stone & Land, LLC It's such a spectacular tree in the perfect years without the blossoms getting ruined by a frost, snow or heavy rain. Sometimes the tree will compensate and send out a few blooms later if they all get spoiled, so that's kind of a cool surprise. I really like the nice spreading form and muscular gray bark that's quite handsome and noticeable in the winter. The big leaves can give a little tropical texture, which is tough to do around Chicago. I probably don't specify it more because it is a little sensitive and not always an even performer. The yellow/brown fall color isn't for me either, but overall a notable plant.
4 months ago · ·
FROST NURSERY The Magnolias are budding now, we can't wait for the full show here at the nursery.
3 months ago ·
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