10 Tips to Maximize Your Whole-House Remodel
Cover all the bases now to ensure many years of satisfaction with your full renovation, second-story addition or bump-out
Houzz Contributor and Seattle remodeler. You can also find me at http://www.ventanabuilds.com/blog. My husband Clarence and I own Ventana Construction, a full-service remodeling company with a focus on whole-house remodels, additions, kitchens, baths and custom new homes.
Houzz Contributor and Seattle remodeler. You can also find me at http://www.ventanabuilds.com/blog.... More »
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If a whole-house remodel or second-story addition is in your future, here’s are 10 tips to maximize your investment, increase the functionality of your home and make future work easier. Keeping them in mind when working with your architect or contractor could help lower your costs and stress during your next remodel.
1. Consider water. Don’t add bathrooms without looking carefully at your water supply lines and the capacity of your water heater. A smaller tank or one with lengthy recovery times may not meet your needs.
This is especially true if you select a new 80-gallon soaking tub and you have a 50-gallon tank. Consider a separate tankless or tank heater for your second story, or a larger tank with a recirculation pump that keeps hot water right at your taps.
Also consider how large your street-side water supply lines are. If you add enough fixtures, the plumbing code may require you to upgrade to a larger supply line. And if you still have galvanized piping, this is probably the time to take it all out.
This is especially true if you select a new 80-gallon soaking tub and you have a 50-gallon tank. Consider a separate tankless or tank heater for your second story, or a larger tank with a recirculation pump that keeps hot water right at your taps.
Also consider how large your street-side water supply lines are. If you add enough fixtures, the plumbing code may require you to upgrade to a larger supply line. And if you still have galvanized piping, this is probably the time to take it all out.
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| 2. Get the right gas meter. More gas appliances usually means a larger meter. Most utility providers will require you to add up the BTU (British thermal unit) requirements of your appliances (furnace, water heater, range, washer-dryer, barbecue, fireplace) and size your meter accordingly. Or maybe you’re adding that barbecue and fireplace in a few years? Sizing the meter larger now and running pipe where you will need it can save you money in the future. |
| 3. Deaden the sound. While your friends will not be able to admire all that pretty insulation in your walls, they will be relieved to not hear what’s going on in the powder room since you insulated all the walls with sound insulation. You can choose from Rockwool insulation, sound board or drywall specifically designed to deaden sound transmission through wall cavities. Using resilient channels in ceilings can also help stop sound transmission from one floor or room to another. You may also want sound insulation around your laundry room and media room and in shared bedroom walls. 4. Avoid the waterfall noise. Decorative waterfalls are soothing in a backyard, but not when you hear them running through your walls. Plastic waste pipe in walls — insulated or not — can create the very audible sound of falling water. This is not an issue when the pipes run into an unfinished basement, but when you add a second story, those waste lines come down through one or more main floor walls. Upgrading to cast iron waste pipes will go a long way toward making them invisible to the ear. |
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5. Invest in quiet exhaust fans. They are required by code in many locations, generally where you have running water. But if you intend to regularly use your exhaust fans, invest in quiet ones. A loud fan can be audible and even shake the floor in which it is installed.
Consider carefully how you will use your fans and make the most frequently used ones as quiet and low vibration as possible. Consider timers for them too, or humidistats, which measure the humidity in the air and turn the fans off when they reach their set level. Motion-sensor fans are also an option.
Consider carefully how you will use your fans and make the most frequently used ones as quiet and low vibration as possible. Consider timers for them too, or humidistats, which measure the humidity in the air and turn the fans off when they reach their set level. Motion-sensor fans are also an option.
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| 6. Plan ahead. Think you might like to add solar before the federal tax credit expires at the end of 2016? Plan for it now. Pondering an electric car? Install a circuit for a charging station just in case. Think you can live without air-conditioning but might want it when you can afford it? Plan for that too. You may even have a second phase planned. Make sure all the engineering and mechanical systems for that next phase are in place and ready to go. Photos are critical when you go this route. Take multiple photos with a measuring tape in the picture before covering these provisions for your future project. |
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| 7. Upgrade your electrical panel. Take a really good look at your electrical panel. If it’s 100 amperes and every slot is filled, chances are that you're a prime candidate for a panel upgrade. Even if it's 125 or 200 amperes, added rooms and an updated kitchen will often require a panel upgrade. Remember, too, that code governs where panels can be, and that means not in a closet. If you still have antiquated wiring, this may also be the ideal opportunity to run new wiring and ground all those outlets. |
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| 8. Weight the pros and cons of new siding, windows and doors. A second-story or bump-out addition begs the question: Stick with the windows, doors and siding you have or choose something new? Your decision may be forced by structural requirements. If enough of your exterior walls need siding removed and plywood nailed on, it may make sense to replace everything. But if you have brick at the main level, you may want to use cement or wood siding at your addition. Window and door matching generally makes sense only if what’s existing is already in pretty good shape or is prohibitively expensive to replicate. The choice is unique to every home; consult with your contractor and architect on the best way to proceed. |
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| 9. Don’t be short sighted. We have had clients ask for baby gates installed permanently on their beautiful custom-built railings. We have had families with toddlers convinced they need adjacent bedrooms, not looking ahead to the teen years and the desire for separate bedrooms. You’re investing a lot of money and time on your remodel, so make sure it will last longer than the current phase your family is going through. When planning for a lifetime home, think about grab bars, accessibility and universal design — if not for yourselves, then for older adults who may visit. An accessible home is also valuable for resale. See more on remodeling for universal design |
| 10. Ask your architect and contractor what they would do. Architects and contractors are generally focused most on meeting the needs you have stated. But asking them what they would do if it were their house is likely to yield some interesting and thought-provoking suggestions that might otherwise pass you by. Your architect and contractor have seen what works, what is worth changing and what may be worth dropping altogether. Questions like these will keep you from overspending on superfluous fads and put your money in the places that count in the long term. More: Should you stay at home through a remodel? 10 points to ponder Houzz guides to getting the most from your remodel |
Ideabook updated on Jan. 31, 2013.
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I don't agree with the last one. It is fine to ask your architect what they would do, but your contractor has a financial stake in your answer and therefore may not give you the truth. When we asked our contractor his opinion during our project we finally realized that his answer was in line with what was best for the timeline rather than what might have been best for us. So my advice would be to never ask your contractor his/her opinion. It's fine to ask what they've done on other projects, but never what he thinks you should do.
The few instances in which we followed our contractor's advice (that was again, based on the timeline, not what might best otherwise) are the only regrets we have about our project. Same goes for "I've never seen that done." Don't assume that means you can't do it. Unless they can tell you why it's a bad idea, don't necessarily rule it out.
For #6 I'd add, however much time you think you'll need for design development, double it to be on the safe side. Also when planning, don't think as much about start date as move-in date (including putting everything, like furniture, back in place) and back time from then.
Another I'd throw in somewhere, insist on Integrated Project Delivery. Words you never want to hear from ANYONE involved on a project, "I wish I had known."
I personally am NOT fan of quiet bathroom fans. Yes, you don't even know they are on...but sometimes you like that noise when you are using the bathroom. I have had mine taken out and replaced with some that make a bit of a noise.
Quiet fans.
Manufacturers make bath fans noisy on purpose. Sometimes it is a good thing to have a noisy fan in a more public facility within your home.
Before all, take time to plan.
Lots of time! Go for the details!
The more time you spend on planning, the less you spend on executing it!
Think of this:
1st - AVOID the WATER INSIDE - make you home waterproofed! Water is any construction's worst enemy!
2nd - INSULATE as much as you can - asure your confort during the winter and summer seasons.
Than, go for all that was written before!
I agree with everything
Thanks for the sound insulation suggestions. I've been researching this as I have a weird thing about noise.
Re installing a noisy fan in the bathroom, what you want to do is keep your sounds from getting outside the bathroom. That's where really good insulation comes in. Panasonic makes fabulously quiet fans.
Allow me to offer an example from my remodel that might help demonstrate my point. We installed a shake siding on the top of our gables. The architect did not specify a specific place for the transition from siding to shakes so the contractor and I picked a sort of arbitrary spot. When it was nearly finished I looked again and realized that I thought it would have been better in a different spot. I asked the contractor for his opinion and he said he thought it looked better where it was. I did not, of course, have to follow that opinion, but it was late in our reno and frankly we were suffering from decision fatigue.
Months later when he was back for some touch-ups we were chatting and I mentioned that I really wished we had changed it because it still bothered me (and continues to bother me two years later). He told me that he now agreed with me but at the time all he could think of was how redoing doing it would put him another day behind schedule. His opinion was offered in good faith at the time, but it was tempered by other concerns he had.
The single best way to avoid "overruns" on a remodel is to plan as far in advance as best you can, and ALLOW a ten% factor for "oops, who knew that was in the wall?!!". I say that, because a re-model is such a different animal than a "from scratch" build. The best contractor on the planet can not often anticipate what he will find hidden. Faulty wiring, something not to code, dry rot, termites, a leak, who knows? But it is also true that once you have survived demolition, and are staring certain opportunities in the face, it is worth the consideration of future convenience and comfort to do that "thing" before the drywall is up! It is always less $$ than a return to the scene of the crime : ) Again, only within your budget and any other constraints, inclusive of time and disruption.
Thanks for your comment. This list is intended as suggestions for whole-house remodels, which tend to run in the $300-400k range. Some of the suggestions above are really required when you do a project of that size (panel upgrade, making sure gas and plumbing supplies are adequate) but it's really intended as a list of things to not forget while you are planning. You don't want to go through a major remodel, get to the end of it and say, "Gosh, I wished I'd known about X--we would have done that and it would have cost less with the main project."
Sounds like you'd appreciate seeing an Ideabook about how to keep $50k projects on budget. There are already a few Ideabooks on Houzz about budgeting for projects: Ideabook: Home Building: 8 Ways to Stick to Your Budget and Ideabook: Kitchen Remodel Costs: 3 Budgets, 3 Kitchens If you'd like to see more, go to the Ideabooks tab and search for "budget".
It's a pretty broad question, and everyone is different. But if stairs are an issue, perhaps it is time to look for an all on one floor situation. Health and finances and equity and real estate markets vary across the USA and the world. Find a trusted friend, or family member or financial advisor, and maybe.... a very good realtor to advise you.
Failing that, consolidate your trips up and down by locating most of what you need daily on the prime living floor, so you can limit the "trips". If you haven't assessed your possessions in twenty years, perhaps hire some help with that. A decent contractor can add additional supports/stair lift to further ease the way, but sometimes the only answer is to move to a friendlier situation. Good luck to you!
I am actually in the process of building my home from scratch. I am at a point that I just got finish with the design today and my builder said he will price it up for our meeting next Wednesday. I started this process 8 months ago. Went to interview around 10 different builders in my area and met with over 12 references (4 from my builder). Been designing this plan for the last 4 months and my builder said I was actually the most detailed buyer he ever had. I read this site religiously plus numerous others and 3 construction book (What your contractor can't tell you and 2 others) and still feel like I haven't even scratch the surface of this construction process. Actually reading these stories and tips actually led to 26 revisions on my plan. All four of the homes we went to see cost $650-$700K to build. Our design is 90% like those house. The builder gave me a heads up yesterday when I met with him. Just from a baseline cost alone, my project will probably start at around 6% more due to building supply cost increase and also labor cost increase due to the upsurge in the building industry from a year ago. Is this true? I would appreciate any help you can give me. Thanks.
as snow ball. Some reno was voluntary, but as we had mess we added some work to do it at once.
Also for those doing renovations and wanting a modern look on doors and windows check out www.ezyjamb.com for trimless/invisible doors.
Things you can do with existing stairs to make them safer are to improve mobility and visual supports. Have hand railings along both sides and low pile carpet or another non-slip surface. Make sure lighting is adequate with uniform, higher light levels, (older people need at least twice the light levels of a younger person) and color contrast at the edge of each step, if possible. Motion-sensing nightlights are a good idea for hallways and/or stairs. Check on this website for Universal Design and Aging in Place. Also, the AARP website has checklists and a lot of information about remodeling for aging in place.
Also, if you put something in quotation marks, it means it is a quotation, as in that is exactly what someone said. At no point did I say (or insinuate) what you've quoted above.
Another suggestion or two - opt for heated tile floors, your feet will thank you in the winter!! :) especially if the room is over a garage which can be soooo cold.
Also, it's an important time to test the floor for creaking noises (when people walk across the room). This can be done by screwing down areas that are noisey - BEFORE you put down carpet or lay the tile.
For questions to ask an interior designer or others that will be assistanting with the remodeling job - Click on this blog:
http://www.interiordesigngreensboro.com/search?q=questions+remodel
A six percent increase is totally possible in that length of time. Materials keep going up, up, up. and so does the shipping cost. And yes, there has been a surge in the new construction starts as well. You don't mention your square footage, or what style, how detailed your home, but most of those that would make you drool on this site, with kitchens you could adore....have exceeded 350.00 per square foot. Could you build for less? Yes, but so much depends on your wish list Most homes built today are "semi custom" Meaning the developer has a few plans, you tweak to suit, you get to pick your finishes from a provided range, or pay for more custom upgrades. The difference in pricing can be VAST. Then you get to things like "landscaping/hardscaping allowances, only to realize they include the bare basics and you are multi multi thousands away from an attractive front or back yard.
Not because I am a designer, but my first advice would be to interview several interior designers before your house is even a hole in the ground. One also could have helped you through this whole process which is arduous if you have not done it. He or she can then help with the multitude of decisions that will come at you.Those will include lights, paint, all your fixtures, flooring tile, et etc.!!! right down to every light switch and outlet. The designer can be invaluable in making a cohesive whole, help you avoid mistakes you regret later and is an excellent go between and extra pair of eyes through the whole process start to finish, and provide more value than you can imagine. Not the least of which is stress reducer. Hope this was helpful.
"Consider a separate tankless or tank heater for your second story, or a larger tank with a recirculation pump that keeps hot water right at your taps."
Girl, word up to your mutha.
In hindsight, I would have factored in a recirculation pump to my overall budget. But I didn't. So, for the time being, I deal with excessively cold water for excessively long periods while the tankless unit debates whether I deserve to wash my hands in warm water.
http://www.fishercustomhomesva.com/current-projects/119-tapawingo-sw/
It is around 5500sf all three levels when finished. Maybe you could look around this website and give me some thoughts of pricing. Thank you so much.
Why do you hate yours with such a passion? And, if you could do it all again, how would you have designed your hot water supply?
Btw, your blog is hilarious yet, strangely inspiring at the same time. Thanks for the chuckles.
Your question earlier today was about price increases year over year. Some materials have gone up over the last year in our region, notably, plywood. And after many many lean years it would not be surprising to see labor rate increases. Construction prices vary quite a bit by region and state, so comparing costs in Seattle to costs in Virginia won't be helpful.
A good example of how things vary (though not particularly helpful for new construction) is this annual cost vs. value report from Remodeling Magazine http://www.remodeling.hw.net/facts-and-figures/cost-vs-value-report/ that shows typical costs by region and city for common remodeling projects.
Hope this is helpful.
It's a lovely house! I do hope you eliminated that high/low upper cabinet thing in the kitchen though! At any rate, as to pricing, there is not going to be help on that, here or any site, other than you local real estate listings. There are simply too many variables in a single town let alone across a region or a country. I am no financial advisor, but a friend who was always says this: "It isn't that you disregard the price, but perhaps think of it another way" Here's his list:
Knowing your area, what does the same square footage cost in a home ten years older,five years older, in roughly the same location? What are they selling for, not what did they cost to build.
How long do I plan to be in the house? New builds make it very difficult to see appreciation in a short stay.
Can I foresee ANY possible scenario where a hefty decrease in "value" of this home would harm me financially? In other words, with taxes, with maintenance, and all that homeownership entails, do I feel so comfortable with the price that a "hit" experienced due to an economic downturn would not put me in panic mode. There is no law on the books, that says values always appreciate.
IN most areas, people buy homes for schools, or location, and bedrooms and bathrooms. In the end any home has to be the one you can afford, almost no matter WHAT. It is first to live in in and enjoy, and while it is an asset of course, there are no crystal balls to predict its value in five years, or ten.
I guess that was the long way of saying does the home represent an affordable VALUE to you, and at what point in pricing will it not? Knowing that every upgrade to a fixture, faucet, trim, or whatever....will cost money. And that you have not decorated it yet : ) Or landscaped.
My heating is over 12 y.o, and medium efficient. We get calls offering to renew with tankless..., government's rebate is miserable. Our friend says government will increase property taxes right away, and it will cost more than leave as is. My husband think it's a good time to do so, but we still debating. Thank you.
http://us.grundfos.com/products/find-product/comfort-pumps-up-10.html
Having helped so many through this process, and having gotten calls for help when people are deep in the process and feeling overwhelmed, I would say:
Begin now to form an idea of how you'd like the house to flow. If it is a tweaked spec house from a builder plan, or a semi custom, or totally custom, really study that floor plan. Study which direction your rooms will face and the siting of the house. If you love a bright kitchen in the morning, a kitchen with a western exposure is not for you. If you sleep in till noon.. possibly your master on the north or west side will be best. Study the traffic patterns
and placement of entries to rooms..."traffic" determines the real use of space in a room more than the actual dimensions wall to wall.
Look at the ceiling heights and windows: Anything over a ten foot height on the first floor is a design challenge for most, and is unnecessary for a very graceful room. A ten foot height will usually mean some transom windows.... one important tip here. Have those cased and trimmed as one window( vertically) if possible. In other words, if you see yourself wanting privacy on them, it is nice to be able to mount the privacy inside the window, and not "break" the treatment between the transom, and the window below it. Or to leave the transom untreated as most light comes from height of a window.
Stairs are a bugaboo of mine. Think on their location. Rarely does anyone coming to your front door, have a second floor destination in your home....why are stairs always at the front? They don't have to be!!! Most people turn the last light off in their kitchen in the evening : )
Soaring double height foyers........pass!! would be my advice. More design freedom, and more second story space with a nine or ten foot ceiling. And zero loss of charm or style. Or hot and cold air.
The garage: It never is just cars.... it's mowers, and bikes and, and, and!!
The basement: What will you store? Tons of xmas? Nice deep shelving? It needn't be
expensive, it just needs to be roomy and off the floor. Finishing a portion for media? Know that even on a walk out.....an over spend is unlikely to come back at re-sale. Think
carefully before you jump in with a ton of built-ins or a bar, or or or.
The "flavor" you want: How do you want the house to FEEL? That feel will affect every toilet, tub, tile, light, cabinet door, faucet, sink, etc, etc, that you choose. There are six billion choices for each of those. The best money spent is independent design help through the process, to help you stay on track with the outcome you desire, the timetable on which selections will need to be made, and all the aforementioned as well.
Good luck and have fun! Plan, and plan early!
gobbitt - with regards to your friend saying that they're "much more" economical than the gas ones, I don't know how true that is. I think that in the long run, yes, you might save some money, but that's at the cost of:
-your dishwasher not running properly due to the lack of immediate hot water
-your laundry potentially not being cleaned properly. With two little boys at home, I have some MAJOR loads that need to be washed in HOT water. With high-efficiency washing machines that don't use much water to begin with, they certainly aren't getting up to temp to clean certain loads the way I'd like
-unbelievable water waste. I used to turn on my shower and be able to hop in and adjust temp within about 5-10 seconds of having the water run down the drain. Now, whether I'm showering or washing a dish or my hands or whatever, I have to wait upwards of 20-30 seconds. Sometimes more. That might not seem like much, but it's *amazing* how much water is actually being wasted during that time
-the dreaded 'cold-water sandwich' as my trades call it. You turn on the hot water in the kitchen to wash a few dishes. You then turn the tap down or off for just a moment to grab those dirty pots on the stove. You turn the tap back on to hot to continue washing and you're met with another round of ice-cold water while you wait for the unit to kick back on. I've heard that this is because some (all?) units require a certain flow capacity to be running consistently in order for the water to be heated. Again, wasted water while you wait for the hot stuff.
Yes, you can purchase recirculation units and have them installed so that they're a fresh supply of hot water at a moment's notice. Yes, you can even purchase a holding tank that keeps a batch of hot water waiting for your beckoning. But you know what? If your tankless water heater requires a tank for it to be effective, why bother?
For me, personally, it hasn't been worth it. AT ALL. I don't feel that my saleperson that touted this unit did an adequate job of disclosing the above-mentioned issues and frankly, *I* didn't do a good job of doing my homework prior to spending an arm, leg and torso.
***This is information taken directly from a company's website that sells the recirculation pumps http://us.grundfos.com/products/find-product/comfort-pumps-up-10.html:
*"Significant water (and sewer) disposal savings, retaining the 12,000 to 38,000 gallons of water a typical U.S. home wastes annually waiting for hot water. Some fast-growing counties are making the installation of hot water recirculation pumps mandatory for all new construction projects."*
Guys, that's *typical* US homeowner. Does a *typical* homeowner have a tankless water heater? Probably not. If the typical Joe Schmoe is wasting upwards of 38,000 gallons a year with a regular hot water tank, it makes me shudder to think what I'm wasting. If all of this information is true, it should come MANDATORY. Period. New construction or not.
If I had to do it again, I'd buy a bigger heater and wrap that sucker in insulation.
@Carol I read the same thing as you mentioned and more. I spent whole night reading about tankless system and only one site gave alternative high efficient tank, the rest were marketing their product or services. Even with my mechanical background I couldn't catch all nuances, have to do more studying. Thank you so much for the article and comments, light in the darkness.
You have to clean up following a meal or its preparation regardless an open or closed up kitchen. If you're inclined to float the dishes and uneaten pancakes in the sink until it is time to prepare dinner... yes you would see that from another room. Much will depend on your cooking and housekeeping style as to what works best for you, but if you want to sell, most like to gather and chat and be open to another space, as it feels larger and brighter.
Especially item number 10!!! We are in the process of building a house. We met with the architect. I had these grandiose thoughts an architect is going to say things like - a great idea is..., or you know what would work well..., or you may not like it if..., instead it was just look at us, listen to us talk and draw on tissue paper.
We've never built before. We know what we like and think we want but will we like it years from now, or will we regret things or want to change things? We literally had to pull everything out of him even the square footage because it wasn't told to us.
We see these things on television shows where the builders, realtors, carpenters and architects are throwing all kinds of ideas out there. These are either very passionate people that love their work or it is made for television.
We are visual people - unfortunately!! We need to see things otherwise we trust in others to let us know what we would regret since we have a hard time picturing it. But since that is not to be, my advice is...
Be sure to go on-line, get books, read, read, and read. Ask questions. Look around you. I visit Houzz over and over and over. I've even recommended them to "people in the business". I took many ideas from watching my mother in law getting around especially after hip surgery, visiting my grandparents years ago with grandpa on a scooter, my mom and dads home and for the time they had to have a gurney brought in watching it go around corners. Fortunately my parents had wide halls and doors!!
My first wants were those wide doorways. I would like the grab bars installed now so we don't have to worry in our older years or if something should happen, but also trying to keep our contemporary look!
It's a work in progress, we are slowly getting there and with a whole lot of pulling and asking questions we are learning much too.
I'm hoping this is the place to ask, if not please do not be offended, just politely guide me in that direction.
Our builder installs electric water heaters, we are used to gas is anyone familiar with them? He says they last longer but we are more concerned with the cost of the electric especially remembering those 70's when electric went crazy in prices. One of my new on-line searches....
Thank you.
I would run from any professional who isn't pro-active in guiding a discussion about design & selection of major systems/appliances.
My theory is that building a house is a major investment, of money, time & emotion .. better to take a little longer, than wind up regretting how things went.
As far as running from someone who isn't pro-active I do agree and understand. And normally we would. But.... we love the area, a lot which backs up to protected woods, its for seniors but because it's new we are all the same age which is nice and it's close to everything and it's small. The problem? It's the only architect he uses. We figure if we can get through this, get the major things we want - basically get over this hurdle we will still have a home we love in an area we like and have moved on from an uncomfortable relationship and make any minor changes later.
I'm realizing in reading what I write it probably sounds worse than it really is.