Showers
Top Ideabooks
- Steam Showers Bring a Beloved Spa Feature Home
- Polish Your Bathroom's Look With Wrapped Tile
- Convert Your Tub Space Into a Shower — Choosing Accessories
- Convert Your Tub Space Into a Shower — Waterproofing and Drainage
- Convert Your Tub Space Into a Shower — the Tiling and Grouting Phase
- Convert Your Tub Space to a Shower — the Fixtures-Shopping Phase
Convert Your Tub Space to a Shower — the Planning Phase
Step 1 in swapping your tub for a sleek new shower: Get all the remodel details down on paper
I'm a bathroom builder, a Houzz Contributor, a blogger (http://www.no-curb.com), a linear drain salesman and "Coach" to about 24 North Shore Girls Soccer players.
A dream client for me is someone looking to build their dream bathroom - not someone looking for a cheap fix.
I live for snow days and love the work we do. My newest love is LED lighting and we are pushing the boundaries of what's possible in a high end shower!
If you are looking for inspiration come check out my Ideabooks on Houzz. I have a ton of them - http://www.houzz.com/ideabooks/users/johnfrwhipple
I'm a bathroom builder, a Houzz Contributor, a blogger (http://www.no-curb.com),... More »
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There are so many examples of large bathrooms, it's easy to lose sight of the fact that most of us have bathrooms that are about 50 square feet (5 by 10 feet). A dream shower can often become a reality only if it fits into the footprint of a dated tub. But what's the best way to go about this conversion?
The first step is to put everything down on paper. Before you start ripping out tile, bringing home sale items or searching for the perfect grout color, make sure you measure, plan and research.
The first step is to put everything down on paper. Before you start ripping out tile, bringing home sale items or searching for the perfect grout color, make sure you measure, plan and research.
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Measure the bathroom exactly. Draw the finished wall measurements, right down to the 1/8 inch. Most tubs are 60 inches wide, and this is a great width for a shower. The depth is the kicker. Aim for at least 32 to 34 inches from the finished tile wall to the future glass shower door.
You will also need to to have a finished ceiling height of 80 inches minimum and a shower that's at least 30 by 30 inches to comply with the National Kitchen & Bath Association's guidelines for bathrooms. If you decide to plan for a bench, make sure it doesn't crowd this space of 30 by 30 inches minimum.
Record the toilet location. A distance of 15 to 18 inches from the the center of the toilet to the glass on the new shower door tends to be comfortable.
You will also need to to have a finished ceiling height of 80 inches minimum and a shower that's at least 30 by 30 inches to comply with the National Kitchen & Bath Association's guidelines for bathrooms. If you decide to plan for a bench, make sure it doesn't crowd this space of 30 by 30 inches minimum.
Record the toilet location. A distance of 15 to 18 inches from the the center of the toilet to the glass on the new shower door tends to be comfortable.
Figure out the shower-door swing. Where will you put the door in your new shower so it does not interfere with the toilet or vanity? I like to use a large scrap of drywall to lay out the potential shower-door swing, and then check the distances of the drywall to the toilet and vanity.
In the renovated bathroom here, a small 1926 tub was replaced with a curbless shower. The walkway from the vanity to the shower was too tight for a swinging shower door, which is why this shower has two glass block walls instead.
Tip: If the bathroom floor is going to get wet outside the shower, select a small tile or another slip-resistant material.
In the renovated bathroom here, a small 1926 tub was replaced with a curbless shower. The walkway from the vanity to the shower was too tight for a swinging shower door, which is why this shower has two glass block walls instead.
Tip: If the bathroom floor is going to get wet outside the shower, select a small tile or another slip-resistant material.
Make sure you'll still have plenty of space. When you replace a tub with a shower, the toilet can start to feel crowded. Make sure you pay attention to this so it feels right to you.
Try to keep at least 15 inches room from the center of the toilet to the new shower glass. If your shower ends up being on the smaller side, you can skimp on this measurement a bit.
Tip: Hold up a sheet of scrap drywall to act as a fake glass panel and sit on a 5-gallon bucket to mimic the toilet's location. This can help you decide how close you like the glass, and how big you'd like your shower.
Stand in the place where your shower will be. A shower depth of 32 inches feels small to me, but might work for you. A depth of 34 to 36 inches tends to be ideal, but again, don't crowd the toilet. Make sure you check your local code for minimum distances, too.
Try to keep at least 15 inches room from the center of the toilet to the new shower glass. If your shower ends up being on the smaller side, you can skimp on this measurement a bit.
Tip: Hold up a sheet of scrap drywall to act as a fake glass panel and sit on a 5-gallon bucket to mimic the toilet's location. This can help you decide how close you like the glass, and how big you'd like your shower.
Stand in the place where your shower will be. A shower depth of 32 inches feels small to me, but might work for you. A depth of 34 to 36 inches tends to be ideal, but again, don't crowd the toilet. Make sure you check your local code for minimum distances, too.
by AMI Designs
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Take out the door if it's causing problems. Who says you need a door anyway? And look into heated floors if you decide not to have a shower door. Floor heat is very good at keeping the bathroom floor dry in addition to warm.
Tip: If you plan to have a doorless shower, you'll need to be extra careful when using a handheld shower fixture. A fixed showerhead or rain head (such as the one in this photo) will keep the water inside the new shower.
More tips on working with a doorless shower
Tip: If you plan to have a doorless shower, you'll need to be extra careful when using a handheld shower fixture. A fixed showerhead or rain head (such as the one in this photo) will keep the water inside the new shower.
More tips on working with a doorless shower
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by kbcdevelopments
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| Take your time looking for fixtures. Shopping for fixtures can actually be fun! Research the options and look for specials and possible combos. Don't feel like you have to use all the same brand — I often use fixtures from two separate companies that still look great together. Tip: If you're building a steam shower, consider Dornbracht fixtures. Remember that a steam shower should be constructed by someone with at least five years' experience in vaporproofing. |
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| Consider your lighting and tile layout from the start. This is key to a polished-looking shower. Make sure to include lights in your shower, not just around it. Depending on your shower size and makeup, one, two or four lights might look best. When you remove your old tub and tub surround to make room for the new shower, this is a perfect time to check that your light system can be installed like you had planned. Often the ceiling framing above a tub can be easily adjusted to accommodate a lighting plan. Don't tile without the finished light sources in place. Without a light source in place, it is hard to know how any lippage might look. In a shower the lights are often quite close to the wall, which will show every little flaw in a tile installation. Tip: Plan your tile layouts early, using the ceiling height as a reference. Try to avoid sliver cuts in tile layouts. Drawing the layout on paper helps — once you have this finalized, you can use your fixed tile grout lines to lay out shampoo niche locations and shower fixtures. More ways to light up your shower |
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| Decide what additions you'll need. Purpose is key here. How will you use the shower? Do you need a bench? Somewhere to put your shampoo? What about a window? All of these extras are important to the renovation and help narrow down a construction plan. Tip: If you're building a shower that will include items like benches, windows and shampoo niches, make sure the waterproofing is brought right up the wall and take extra care around the windows. Kerdi Fix is an outstanding product for seaming the window to the shower's waterproofing system. Next: Step 2 — Choosing your new shower fixtures More: Houzz guides to remodeling your shower |
Ideabook updated on March 11, 2013.
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looking forward to part 2.
We tore out an old fiberglass tub/surround. We do most of the work ourselves.. in this case, for a shower pan we called in a plumber who informed us of two things.. first, we needed the inside width to be 30" minimum and second the drain for a shower for our state building code must be larger than that of a tub. We would have had to rip up the floor, heating, window trim for the former and for the latter, it would have been thousands in plumbing as the basement access was not there without ripping out ceilings, adjacent bays to access, etc..
Had we known this up front, we would have kept the tub and changed other things.. as it stands now, we have a new tub and are waiting for the tile guy to take a look. the project will have gone from 2 weeks to now 2+ months. so before you leap into this wonderful idea do your homework!!
What's wrong to have bath tub combined with shower, especially in small older houses? More likely at some point of your life or some days, or re-sale you will need bathtub. Unless you have just one bathroom and disability (difficulty to get into bathtub) and it's your lifetime home I would never get rid of bathtub. If you don't like to clean bathtub you'll find more challenging to clean all grout (yellowing if not cleaned frequently) and clear shower glass. We built a shower in the basement with 6x8" tile on the walls, and 2x2" on the floor, and clear shower door for my husband and it is clean once a week only, as I don't have housemaid who would clean it once-twice a day, the grout already yellowed on lower parts, in 2 years. Now I think maybe we should do it with glazed, dark, huge slabs and frosted glass for easy clean and better look in between cleaning.
The final inspiration was a picture I saw on house. It gave me the impetus to get going. Picture the bench where the tub is in the picture with a wall of windows and you have the reno. I was a bit nervous about losing the tub even though I haven't had an actual bath in a decade. silly, really.
In Canada a shower drain can use a 1.5" drain line. In the USA a 2" line is required. Plumbing inspectors are not trolls! Go talk to them. You might be surprised that they give you permission to build your shower.
If you need to take out a tub for your Mom or Dad. Maybe your wife blew out her hip. Do your really think the city is going to demand you can not change this? No chance. Just pick up the phone and call.
If the showers I build work up in Canada why would they not work in the US?
Often we test the flow rate of a new or old drain line. To do this we make a sump out of a 5 gallon bucket and connect it to the new shower drain. Then we use water pressure full blast to run down the shower drain. I have yet to find a shower drain that can not handle 12 GPM.
Most shower fixtures are regulated to 2.5 GPM.
Walking into City Hall and explaining that you have a rain head and hand held capable of producing max 5 GPM and a single thermostatic control valve is one thing.
Walking in and describing 6 body jets, a rain head, a hand held and more with three thermosatic control valves is a different beast.
All showers are not created equal. Most showers will work fine with a 1.5" drain line provide it is installed right and pitched properly. How do you know? Test it!!
JW
I would re-visit the installation to be safe. JW
Also look at the Schluter products to convert a tub to a shower. They have shower kits that inlcudes a sloped pan, drain, and material to make a truly waterproof shower. Most tile stores carry it or can order it.
Don't forget to waterproof everything before putting tile on. Water will go right through natural stone, grout, and cement board. There are several products to do this such as RedGard, Hydroban, Kerdi. Do it right, do it once.
Have a good day all!
1) If your water has a lot of limescale, install a filter. You can get filters for your shower head, or put it in your water line. Filtering the whole house will save a lot of money and hassle.
2) Get a squeegee and ask everyone to squeegee after a shower. It takes little time (it doesn't have to be a very diligent job) and it will make a real difference in limescale deposits and mold.
The baths are now very practical and look much larger than before. I am convinced that having no tub in the house can be a disadvantage, but we don't plan to sell and two showers work so well for us.
I would love to see an article on how to dress up/modernize the traditional shower/bathtub combination. We have a second even smaller bathroom that needs serious help. Because our home has lots of stairs and isn't probably that appealing to an aging couple, we are reluctant to get rid of the tub. I need some new ideas on this score!
I laughed out loud when I saw your pictures. You had the EXACT same bathroom I have. I have been planning my new bathroom with a contractor for over a year now. I plan to remove the existing tub and shower just as you did (we have 2 other bathrooms that have tubs) and put a built-in tv and fireplace on that empty wall where the tub was. Under the tv/fireplace will be a built-in bench with shelves for towels. The existing glass shower will be removed and have stepped down tiled wall facing the sink/vanity. We will then be able to wheel into the bathroom, and around into the shower (not now - hopefully 10 - 15 years from now). My husband just wanted to install one of those walk-in tubs until he was told they cost $11,000. The beauty is that none of the plumbing has to be moved. Love what you did. Thanks for the help! I owe you one!
Love the "dust bowl" comment. A friend of mine who has an absolutely lovely home used the dust bowl in her master bath as a clothes hamper. I guess it took care of the dust. Me, I vacuum mine. Can't wait to get rid of it.
Instead of a shower bench, I bought a cute modern plastic outdoor stool which takes up less room and is movable. I can put in a sturdy seat if I need it years from now. After all, how many people do more than use the bench to prop their foot when shaving their legs? Saves money on the renovation too.
I put in a hand shower, mounted low - if I break a leg or something and am in a cast, I can wash the rest of my body easily. And really handy for cleaning the shower.
If you live in a one bedroom apartment, taking out a tub hurts resale less than in a house likely to contain young children.
I raised the ceiling from 8 to 9 feet and put in a ceiling heater. It gets chilly in there sometimes.
BTW, everyone I know hates glass showers more than they do curtains. They are a horror to keep shiny - especially after the coating goes.
I would also consider using a shower without a door as you see pictured in the first and forth picture in the article.
Moving the toilet back might give you enough pace to at least change the wall hung sink for a decent sized vanity it the same area.
It would involve some breaking up of the concrete to to this but it might be worth it.
We did a full bathroom renovation about five years ago for a lady in a rental. She had lived there for seven years and was going to move out because she hated the tile and vanity.
The landlord told her to buy new tile and a new vanity and send him the bill to install them.
Basically the landlord covered 80% of the work and my client was thrilled with this arrangement!
Here in Vancouver there is a shortage of barrier free rentals. A wise landlord would be planning these showers and getting more rent for the rental in the future!
JW
Realtors tell you for your own good, they know what buyers looking for, it's up to you to make a decision. If you plan to live in for the next 15 years do whatever you want, it will need renovation anyway at that point, however, in five years re-sale you'll have trouble selling not realtor. I am frustrated when I am looking some fixer-upper houses that are done on their own taste and rise the price as they did me a favor, when in fact I don't care about two showers in one bathroom (fake luxury) or glass shower. I need privacy and some times I jump in just to grab something in the morning wile my son in bath-shower, or opposite, and I have curtains for the next 5-10 years maybe. Convenience is far more important than ridiculous "openness" not mentioning that posted bathrooms are the size of my master bedroom or bigger. I open curtains and it's the same openness as "clear" (ha-ha) glass. My realtor "melted" when she saw glass wall between master bedroom and bathroom. She is single, I can understand, but I thought "people lost their mind. What on Earth they were thinking I should see or hear what's going on in the bathroom!"
Transfer of disabled daughter much easier for both toilet and shower.
We are trying to design a bathroom space right now and it's all "Ass Backwards". Not because the bathroom is poorly designed but because the user has no use of his Left arm.
Try using your bathroom with your left arm in a sling. Is it doable? Self transfer from the chair to a bench with just your right arm? Can you do it?
I learned a great trick a couple years back for building for those with vision impairment. The trick was to use some vaseoline and smear it over your safety glasses. A smear. Now while wearing these try and navigate a space. This will give you a glimpse into out clients world and hopefully make all these new projects safer and more enjoyable. JW
Don't leave your contractor alone. I went on vacation, and came back to a narrow shower. Never mentioned by the contractor. And a hole in the wall by the electrician who somehow thought I would want an electrical outlet right where a vanity mirror would be placed above the vanity. And the contractor said, "well he's a man". Really.
There is a great Kohler toilet, expensive, but with a 13" tank that functions great AND doesn't take up alot of space. Hard to find small white vanities and I ended up using my kitchen cabinet guy to do the vanity.
A tub conversion to shower is the #1 request we hear from new buyers of Maui homes. Most frequently this is in two bath condos and they want to remove one tub for a larger walk-in shower.
Planning and design is critical in a successful conversion. Not only does the finished product need to feel and look right, the infrastructure must be solid for longevity.
We waterproof our showers to the ceiling. While not required, this small extra step ensures the shower is water tight and will not leak to downstairs neighbors.
We also are known for our "windows in the shower." This must be done properly and the result is a beautiful, functional ventilation in the shower.
We are designers and we construct which means we are held accountable from beginning to end.
Here's another "window in the shower"...
You can check your 2% slope (1/4" per foot) with a two foot level and piece of 1/2" drywall. Place the drywall on the low side of the shower and then rest the edge of the level on the drywall and on the shower floor. If a proper slope is in place the level will read "Level".
Slopes as great as 1/2" per foot are allowed but no more. If you slide your level down so the middle of the level is on the edge of the drywall this will be a 4% grade (Max grade 1/2" per foot). If the shower is stepper than this the floor does not comply with recommended slopes.
I like a hair past 2%. This grade works and drains the best I have found. JW
Here's my quandary, when I'm able to get back to taking baths and reno the master to be walk in shower, will I miss just coming out of the bath right into the bedroom vs from the guest bath. Our house is only 1500 sq ft and the living room is next to the master. But every morning I look at the tub/shower and really can envision a walk in shower for daily use and opening the space up. And yes, the door vs curtain debate has come into play as well. Good article and topic!
As to the curbless shower I wanted so dearly, the contractor told me she really needed 33" width to make it work wtihout water getting out the back corner. So that wasn't happening, and when I suggesed a European bathroom (all able to be wet), she said the sloping would be so bad to obtain proper draining that she could not do it. And with the condo highrise cement floor, she could not install a second drain. Alas, in retrospect, I would have stuck with a tub in the master, and saved money and grief.
Here in Florida, where there are many elderly people, there is a tub advertised that has a door, so as to be a walkin, and eliminates having to get over the side of the tub. One of my friends installed this for her mother and said it worked fine.
When interviewing contractors and tile setters ask for pictures of their prior barrier free work. A curbless shower should be designed by someone with a good five years experience in this type of work.
Last year we built two barrier free showers in Vancouver Condo's. It can be done.
Converting a tub into a walk in shower with a door is a possibility but remember many times this still leaves you with a 6" step - some of my clients find that to much.
JW
Totally agree! We are business owners, albeit not trade or contractor, but even in our line of work our clients have told us previous consultants/providers said, "it can't be done". They ate surprised and annoyed to find out that is wrong and misleading. Unfortunately, we've than had to charge a bit more to fix what was previously done. Educate yourself before investing in any professional service...the good ones like John will not be offended.
I have a somewhat list here http://no-curb.blogspot.ca/2011/04/certified-channel-drain-installers-city.html
You can try looking up a Five Star NTCA Contractor - this might be a good starting point.
In Canada look for a TTMAC member.
Ask for references. Ask to see examples. Ask about flood testing! Make sure the new crew plan this vital step.
Look into the TCNA and TTMAC guidelines and make sure you understand what is involved in the renovation before jumping all in.
JW
Hi! Yes, I am in CS TX. Would love to chat. How do we get in contact with each other?
The end result of months of planning and months of construction...
I saw their product in Las Vegas a few years ago (Health Care Design Conference 2010) and thought it was junk then and think it is junk now.
On this note I also don't like the Kerdi pan. The Noble Pan. The Wedi Pan. Or the Laticrete pan.
If forced to use one in a shower build I would pick one of the four listed above over the Tile Redi pan every time. The tile Redi pan requires a lot of prep and requires special setting materials. These types of systems are designed for hotel use where an installer is building on the cheap and in massive units. Most pro installers need to bang out 10-14 showers a day on a commercial or hospitality project.
If you think a pan will make your life easier - think again. JW
We are professionals and we will always go with what we know. We have proven methods and leak-proof showers. Our clients appreciate this.
Interesting point about these "ready-made" products requiring more installation materials and time. Time is money so buying a ready-made anything that takes more time to install (or adjust to the situation) is bad for business.
Perhaps these types of products are better suited for DIYers?
We definitely do not see the top professionals using them.
We just passed another shower pan flood test...go with what you know...
Los Altos Hills Bathroom Remodel
Blue and White Bathroom with Glass Block
Vi Condo Remodel
:) Rhoda
I'm helping a client in California right now who interviewed a few builders and not one saif that they would flood test the project. In the end he decided to build the shower himself.
He just past a 72 hour inspection (flood test!).
I've seen more flood tests from my clients abroad than I have seen online combined (excluding mine). These safety checks are what keeps things tight and leak free.
Insist that your tile crew, hot mop crew or plumber checks their work.
If your told they are not needed - find a new person to do the job.
JW
We've done hot mops for linear drains and always have to do the flood test for building inspections for our San Francisco Bay Area projects. I don't know the brands Bill has used and will ask him during the week (he's taking the weekend off). Frankly, while linear drains are good to look at, I would prefer to take a shower with a slope to a center drain rather than a slope to one side for a linear drain. Here are a couple of linear drains we've done (one doesn't have the fancy grill on it yet):
Vi Condo Remodel
When this project is furnished, I'll get professional photos!
:) Rhoda
When choosing a linear drain it is important to remember they need to be easy to clean. The Electropolished Finish on the ACO and the ease of grill removal make it Best in Class for ease of cleaning.
Good to hear all your shower projects are flood tested. This is the single most important check that the shower's waterproofing is in tack and that water getting to this layer can drain away without pooling. Would love to see a few action shots if you have them on file.
This shower is waterproofed with combination of products ranging from Hydro Ban, Noble Seal TS, Kerdi and Ardex 8+9. It's been flooded out now for 14 days at least. Here in Vancouver often these showers waterproofed with liners are left for weeks. I've seen one evaporate over the six weeks we where on site.
I like to tell people to ask their shower renovator "Who will flood test the new shower's waterproofing system?". Is it required? A pro will say it is and understand the process of calling for and flood testing a shower. This question should be asked before any work begins. Use it as a pre screening question to find the right crew to build your new dream shower.
Even if a permit is not require the flood test needs to be done to ensure the work is properly completed. JW
Do you really want a friend of your sister's boyfriend tiling and waterproofing your shower? Or would you rather work with a pro who understands that because he/she is building your shower it is also there responsibility to flood test it. As a home owner you should specify this procedure and insist on seeing it set up and inspect. Once flooded and check then make sure it drains. I can promise you if you tell your crew this is a must there will be a lot more care taken on your job.
A flood test used to be a plumber only thing (back when the only option was a rubber liner, copper pan or hot mop) but with membranes from Noble, Kerdi, Wedi, Laticrete, Mapei, Ardex and on an on it is the tile setter who needs to set up this flood test and call it in.
If you want your plumber to do the flood test let him install the waterproofing membrane. If your tile guy wants to use Hydro Ban or Kerdi make sure he does the inspection.
Kerdi Fix product only has a 1 year warranty..really? 1 year is not much good
That said "Kerdi Fix" is one of my most important tools in shower construction. I pay about $26.00 a tube and use it for so many applications.
This is not a glorified Dap Chaulking in the $3.00 a tube price point. We once had to remove some Kerdi affected to an ACO drain with only Kerdi fix. Roughly 80" of 1/2" coverage. It took over an hour to get it off.
Stuck like a ___________! JW
I don't think the removal of a tub is necessarily a trend. Some people, like me, are dealing with an over-sized jetted tub that measures 6' x 6 1/2' that is very difficult to clean and looks hopelessly outdated. Not to mention the fact that this tub can be difficult to get into and out of. We are thinking more about being able to stay in our house if either of us becomes disabled. We have 2 additional full baths that are used only on the random weekend or the holidays. Every house that has been sold on our street has been sold to older couples. We have talked with realtors and the consensus is that our changes will enhance the resale of our house (not that we plan to sell). Again, the object is not to be trendy but to have a "spa-like" bathroom we can use for years to come. Of course in addition to the large curb-less shower, there will be a fireplace and TV. If you are in a wheelchair, the bathroom should be a comfortable and relaxing place. After spending the last couple of months with a wheelchair bound relative, we are looking at even the simplest tasks in a whole new light.
Thank you for your comment Britastina. Accessibility is an issue we will all face sooner than later. For me and my wife the last two years has been a struggle caring for her father's needs while trying to get him into a care home where he is safe. My wife is a Saint and has done practically everything herself. Me as a builder - I look at accessibility in a whole new light. It's hard not to when dealing with it on a weekly basis.
Just last week one of my clients fell in a bathroom I built and broke her hip. The bathroom was not the barrier free shower I made for them but rather the main bathroom. She slipped getting off the toliet with her walker. The tile was Italian Marble (8"x8" Honed with a tumbled edge). Had she used the bathroom with the 4"x4" floor tile she may not have fallen. I can only hope she recovers properly.
I also learned that vision is key - I believe I mentioned this already but I was taught that you should smear a little vasoline over your glasses or work safety glasses to re-create what it is like for someone with a vision impairment has to go through in a day.
One of my Peers in Ontario (http://www.houzz.com/pro/reliableliving/ronny-wiskin) is a great wealth of information to me. He told me that people should be Pro-Active rather than Re-Active. When you remove a tub that just wastes space and is too hard to enter and exit safely with a barrier free shower you are being Pro-Active. When your husband falls and breaks his hip and you cut in a cheesy door into the tub or instal a transfer bench you are being RE-active. The difference is in the planning, the required timeline and the material choices available to you.
I do not think a barrier free shower or accessible bathroom needs to look like something from a hospital. Then can be designed with style and made to look sleek and modern. But this requires forethought and time.
JW
Yesterday I checked in on my Linked In profile and went by the NKBA Group. I added a link to this ideabook and this fellow made a "Helpful Post" about a tub to shower conversion from KBRS.
I looked up the product and then looked up the tub to shower installation process. You can view it here;
http://kbrsinc.com/site/showerslope_installation_gallery.html
Take a moment a look at this link. What do you see?
I see a complete pile of crap. A drain installed wrong. Waterproofing systems used wrong (if the Shower Seal product is in fact made by Mapei). Blocked weep holes.
The fellow that suggested this product no doubt works for them or sells them - I guess I'm guilt of that too promoting the ACO drains I sell - but the big difference is in the install. The one shown online by KBRS would fail inspection here in Vancouver. How they can sell and offer up installation advice boggles my mind.
Mrs. JR1 this is my biggest issue with these systems. Most if all are junk and they are designed to make a hard job easy. By making it easy you loose a little in function or quality.
A shower can destroy your home. Make you sick. Make your kids sick. It could even bankrupt you in worst case scenarios. They need to be built right. Checked. tested.
People should start demanding that these inspections get done. It's like contractors forget who the boss is. For me the boss is the client. They pay the bills. I charge to build waterproof showers and think my customers deserve to be shown they are. So does every inspector in America and Canada.
If your guy says its not require. Tell them to test it anyway. Then be careful how you go about flood testing. I will put up a very detailed Ideabook on this process teaching everyone how I flood test and measure the evaporation rates. Nothing fancy is needed. Most likely everything you need found in the couch (loose change) and in the kitchen (small baking dish). JW
This is one of their fold down shower seats we installed a year and a half ago...very nice:
Your contractor might want to use a fiberglass pan instead of building a custom tile pan. This is one way to simplfly the process.
When I say I do not like ready made tile pans I'm referring to the tile ready made pans. Pans designed to be tiled after completion. A simple tub to shower fiberglass pan can be used and waterproofed quite easily.
If this is the type of shower pan your contractor recommends ask them;
"How do you waterproof the wall backer board to the shower pan.?" - a smart contractor will take care with this critical board to shower pan transition. Of late I have been using some Kerdi Band and Kerdi Fix to seal the lip of the shower tray to the backer board. Then we waterproof the walls up to about 6' high making the entire shower waterproof.
"Do you extend the waterproofing up the walls? - if so how far?" - typically 6' off the ground is ideal in most cases. We like to make sure any wall that will get wet is waterproofed this high. In a typical shower this is about 66 square feet of wall waterproofing. A $70.00 container of Hydro Ban, a $65.00 box of Ardex 8+9, a small roll of Kerdi or Noble membrane could all address this. Most renovators have their favourite. The ones that don't know what these products are are the ones to avoid.
"How does the shower pan get installed to the floor and if it gets any mortar or thinset when being installed?" - this is often skipped and the fiberglass pans can feel soft and spongey. It is easier to just plunk it done and be done with it but adding in the mortar layer or thinset makes for a better install.
"Will you flood test the new shower pan? - what do you use to do this?" - The drain connection to the shower pan and the pan's connection to the drain pipe needs to be checked. A simple twist n set test plug or inflatable test plug will do the job. Most contractors do not know how this is done so they may differ to their plumber. Either way asking the questions lets them know you want it preformed. The ones that tell you it's not needed are the ones that might not be the best fit for your next renovation.
I like to use a topically waterproofing over my shower backer board walls. This is not a required step or even a code require step - it is however a good common sense step. If your renovator is "Old School" he may describe using building paper or poly behind his backer board. He may describe taping the seams and then tiling. These are recommended steps and not wrong. If they answer like this ask them
"Would you mind waterproofing my shower topically? What product or products do you like?" - here again they may differ to their tile setter for feedback. If this is the case ask them
"Who is your tile setter? What's your plumber's name?" - Pro's work with the same crew on almost every job. I have about 2-3 tile setters I use on occasion. 2-3 plumbers I trust. I can give you their names on the drop of a hat. If your looking at a portfolio ask what tile setter installed this shower? Things like that
Hope that helps somewhat Mrs. JR1.
If I were younger, and looking at moving up in the housing market, resale has importance. If a person is planning on living in a home for five years or less, this makes good sense. It all depends on where you are in your life and what you intend to get from your home.
We live in an aging world, and my decision to remove a bathtub to make a safer environment is, undoubtedly, the same thought that many others considering my home may one day have (when it is eventually put up for sale.) However, I don't really care - I'll enjoy my shower and let the bank, or whoever gets my house when I die, worry about it.
If a shower makes your life easier or will one day - then the tub's got to go.
You might get more money for the place in the end.
If you worry about future resale pricing you may miss out on a newer higher quality of life.
If you slip and fall getting out of or into a tub and end up in a care home (over half the people living in assisted living places are there because of a fall) then what good is that?
Removing tripping hazzards, adding in grab bars, better lighting, wider doors and on and on improve the ease of living as we age. This can keep us in our homes longer.
Falls are to be avoided. Falls are bad. Plan for this in your 40's and 50's. My Nana is 86 and still will not let me install grab bars for her! Nana keeps telling me she will let me install them when she is old! lol
It is possible to design a barrier free and tasteful shower space. Not to practical if you need to do it in a week. The difference is in the planning.
Like Ronny Says. You are either going to renovate to be Pro-Active or because you are being "Re-Active".
Re-Active showers tend to look like the hospital came down to build it.
Pro-Active showers tend to look like this West Vancouver Low Curb Shower
I started a new IdeaBook here with a few questions you might ask your next bathroom renovator or tile contractor. Ideabook: Hiring a bathroom renovator - top questions to ask before hiring one!
Put grab bars in for Nana despite her objections; they're not only for the old and disabled. They are of no use to my partner because he can't use his arms/hands. But a few years ago, I was seriously ill and found them extremely useful. Thanks for the new ideabook!
There's room for all - and, I predict the median age of your clientele will increase over the next few years. You may want to keep track of where those 'no tub' homes are!!!
The discussions on this topic are of extreme interest to me. As several people have said here--you NEVER know when you or a family member will NEED to have handicapped access--can't we find a BETTER name for these things?--in their home. I am very careless and lost a leg. So now--
I have a 1977 fiberglass (maybe?) tub and shower "surround". Fortunatly for short me the tub is kinda on the low side--this was good for bathing kids back when--and we have two small grandkids who live here now and this is good---but---you can't imagine using something like this with a below the knee amputation. I cannot tell you how TERRIFIED I was the first time I had to get in there--bench or no bench! I use a contraption called a Knee Walker to get around when my faux leg is off--and that means out of the bedroom, down the hall--all with funky 70's carpet that is way thicker than I would like!--and then into the long narrow bathroom. Make sure the bath seat is NOT all tippy. - the two way shower is turned to ONLY hand held mode----adjust the temp and warm up that shower seat.
Then I have to make sure I have EVERYTHING I might need--I have a basket on the Knee Walker for towels razor etc but then there is the in the shower stuff! Make sure curtain is IN the tub. Line the Walker up as close to the side of the tub as I can--and the tub BOWS OUT! Fun. Now .for the fun part--I have to firmly hold onto the handle bar of the Knee Walker and swing my GOOD right leg OVER that tub wall and pray that my foot--which has it's OWN issues!-connects with the floor and does NOT slip. Then I have to make a leap of faith and swing the lopped off leg over and onto the bath seat--try this at home kids!--and then hold onto the GRAB BAR--fortunately one of the ONLY things that was in the house when we bought it that HELPS me--and then work my way 180* around to sitting.
We installed another short grab bar just OUTSIDE the tub-and this is handy for getting in and out. When I get OUT I manage to SIT on the tub edge and pull the knee walker straight (backed in) against the tub wall so I can have several points of contact to eliminate the chance of slipping.
Now heres the thing. I HATE the shower/tub combo. Even tho my hubs works for a Big Box Store whose signs are NOT orange---there seems to be few alternatives due to the odd size of the pre-fab surround etc. So--since we DO plan on moving in the next few years--we are NOT going to yank this out. Much as it pains me to say this! And--it's more that the thing is sooooo ugly! The pebbled surface holds every speck of soap and our highly mineralized water---the tub faucet kept getting severely in my way so that had to go--did I mention that Duct Tape makes a good seal for these things? Nothing ELSE will stick to these walls tho!--and we are just not willing (unless some new product shows up on the plumbing aisle!) to rip n tear. Our house has a second bathroom in the full finished basement with a shower in case we need a second one--say we have a traffic jam on the main floor--but I can't get down there!
This is more to show folks HOW this can affect your life. And--seriously--any of us COULD be hit by a bus or bitten by a shark. And you would need accomodations. We are planning on selling this house and letting the new owners have the "joy" of ripping and tearing--and for us--we will be possibly buying a house down South or traveling in an RV for awhile--talk about DESIGN CHALLENGES!!!!---
Can you imagine the challenges for YOU in YOUR house if you had a big problem?
Tip: Hold up a sheet of scrap drywall to act as a fake glass panel and sit on a 5-gallon bucket to mimic the toilet's location. This can help you decide how close you like the glass, and how big you'd like your shower.
Stand in the place where your shower will be. A shower depth of 32 inches feels small to me, but might work for you. A depth of 34 to 36 inches tends to be ideal, but again, don't crowd the toilet. Make sure you check your local code for minimum distances, too.
You might look into a nice fiberglass tub to shower conversion pan. This will reduce some costs for you.
I'm more of high end remoldler and not much of a budget renovator - sorry.
JW
I cannot say enough about how important it is to keep this type of check list and add more if you desire anything in particular before any work begins. I have used Houzz as well, and it actually was the beginning of looking at ideas for features we wanted, learning along the way what was possible! Also, we already knew about the possibilities for our shower, after time spent in other countries ,where it was more common to find curb-less showers successfully working. It was not only the solution to our dated, small bathroom where we never used the tub, but it also was possible now for it to become a quite beautiful and functional solution for the existing space. Suddenly we had a picture in our heads' and a lot of work to do before ever touching a thing!
Since we already have a window, which needed to be addressed, and all of the fixtures are dated and also stained from decades of use of our well-water , which is now corrected, we were already looking at ideas for good solutions and designs for all of our baths. Although the list is long, choices fill a notebook, and files grow by the day, eventually it all comes together through research, notes, discussions, observations, reading, on and on . We are almost at the demolition stage, and are in the final stages of selecting the surround tile and have selected the glass panel we love, so it will all work with the existing beautifully-tiled floor outside the tub/shower, (as you say it is important to do those choices yourself as well as discussing with professionals and especially your own contractor!).
From your great ideas including drainage choices, floor tile and grout, tile surround, built-in seat(too small for ours', but we may get a little "foot edge" to go along an area, window replacement and light, to the little nooks built into the wall for shampoos, etc., we seem to be covering it all. And yes, choice of type of shower head, (and don't overlook all safety features including a grab bar), is a huge part of the total picture. Work with good sales people with excellent products that meet your budget as well when looking at vanities, and making all decisions involving lighting , faucet/drain/tile aspects because they will be working for you from experience; if they are good, they will also listen to you , then help you go forward with these things. Measuring!! Can we ever say enough about the importance of this? Please read and keep this article, it is outstanding!
I am sure this is going to be a wonderful adventure, and I wish all others great luck with your new showers! Of course we all want the ideal contractor, first, and one who has done every aspect of this work before, and with good solid background experience, the good sense to walk us through it, laying out our choices to be decided, advice along the way, and then you don't need to be hesitant to show him/her what you have found on your own in Houzz, or in any other places where you have pictures to show how it actually will look in your minds' eye; it may or may not be do-able. This leads to good design, avoids complications later, solid construction, and a flawless, tasteful, useful bathroom to enjoy for many years to come. Communication and knowledge are the essence of this when working with a team! I truly am blessed, and have worked with our same contractor who I adore and respect completely, several times before. That is the beginning of a wonderful outcome, both beautiful and making us ALL happy!
Thanks again for the article.
If you contact schluter systems, the maker of kerdi, they can direct you to local contractors that have taken their installation course. ..
JW: that's a great idea; a nearby tile store sells the material., or used to. Why didn't I think of that? Thanks.
Even when bathrooms are advertised as updated, it usually amounts to new paint and a new Home Depot vanity. That hideous fiberglass tub at the far wall with the sad sad shower curtain and years of soap scum remains. In my area, primitives and Americana decor are the hot items. People never fully update their homes it seems (or if they do they love it so much they never sell), they slap a new coat of paint on a bedroom wall and act like "viola, revamped!"
I am glad to see someone keeping it real and realizing so many of the pictures on here are gorgeous but not everyone is super wealthy with giant houses and giant rooms within those houses. Us people with small bathrooms have good taste and like nice spaces too! :)
Item #: 89230 | Model #: 9996-96. What do you think of this shower base and the installation. We are DIY'ers and will be doing all the work....demo, tiling...
"This is a very deluxe shower pan, we bought the large one 60" x 42". Read the instructions carefully as cutting out for the groove in the back is very important - do it wrong and the pan won't fit your floor."
Also read Product Questions about your pan to foresee any special needs/products or materials you might need in addition to what you have. Kohler’s website has some listed for your pan. With our shower, we needed to order a special drain separately that did not come with the item package. We would have not known or thought to ask and order if we had not read about it earlier.
Finally color is a personal choice and not seeing pictures of the bath makes it hard to make a call. I’ve found a color can vary from manufacturers. I like classical designs, my spouse likes different/cutting edge ones. Go with what you like and may you have a fun and fantastic renovation.
First off--do not EVER use one of the across the tub edge seats!!! The edge that hangs over the tub side on the room side will instantly FLOOD the floor. Discovered this in a hotel room. IT seems like a good idea because you can move it out of the way for others but the waterfall factor makes it very dangerous.
When you think about a built in seat--think about who might use this and how. For some one to just sit and relax while their hair conditioner works anywhere is fine. But for some one who might NOT be able to get up and adjust the shower flow or temp from the extreme BACK end of the shower or tub--not so much! If the person using this cannot GET to the controls or the soap and shampoo--kinda useless. And the cold hard back tile of the shower stall can be a turn off in a big way. For this reason I am still thinking of using a mobile shower seat when we move or re-hab to a standing shower
Most showers have shallow niches for soap etc that are placed way too high. For some one seated who might not have the ability or the confidence to move around on wet tile this might be a real difficulty. The shower curtain--or doors--need to be placed so some one seated in the shower or tub can get to them also.
For getting into and out of the shower or bath you need to think--how will this be accomplished! Is the person going to go into the shower in a wheelchair? Transfer from the chair to the shower seat? Can they do this alone or will they need someone to help them--and that person will need room to help.
What plans will you make if some one does fall in the shower? I had a shower seat break in a hotel bathroom--I spend a fair amount of time in hotels!!!---and because the shower pan was a lovely tile raised about 5" off the floor I could NOT get my leg underneath me in the narrow space. As I am missing a leg and part of a foot I have a few "issues" with getting up from the floor and slippery 1950's tile didn't help! We ended up having to call the Squad to give me a hand to the toilet and then I was able to continue on my own. Was pretty scary tho. Will you have a call bell? Someone to sit with the person while showering? Low grab bars for pulling some one up if they just need a hand hold? And some showers and baths have the grab bars in totally UNrealistic placements--the best thing I can think of is to actually SIT as closely mimicking the situation and see exactly WHERE some one might NEED to grab hold. One of my grab bars is just OUTSIDE the shower on a narrow wall--this allows me to grab from inside and out if needed. For most of these you will NOT be able to move them once placed!!!!
A low holder for the moveable shower head is also something most showers don;t have---and SHOULD. Nothing worse than being in the shower and being cold because the water doesn;t hit you--and you can't lather up or rinse properly. This is also an issue when thinking about the placement of the shower seat----some one at the far end of the structure might NOT be able to get the water ON them right. I don't have much useage of one of the bar pipe type showers--this might be the answer to these issue I just haven't had much chance to try one. Some hotels I have been in have them--but then they don't have a shower seat! Or the tub is too tall for me to get over the side--something else to consider if the person is short or less mobile.
A chair or bench--I prefer a bench as you can turn more easily on it--in or near the bath is a godsend for getting dry and getting dressed. The bed is fine but that also means getting something on even if it is a towel if others are in the house--just another thing to think about!
You need to look at building codes as an entry level - the least you can do as a developer or spec builder before selling off your last build.
Demand a better product - have the TCNA or TTMAC specifications (with the optional waterproofing measures added) specified on your next build. Instead of spending hours and hours looking for a couple of tips purchase the specification guide books and have it sent to your home or office.
This simple step will save most bathrooms from being built and tiled poorly.
My guess is that for less than $50.00 this little specification book could be the best investment you make in the design build process.
$45.00 CDN TTMAC http://www.ttmac.com/specifications.html
$30.00 USD TCNA http://www.tcnatile.com/handbook-all/494-2013-tcna-handbook-for-ceramic-glass-and-stone-tile-installation-version-2013-1.html